Engine Oil For Rb20Det (Gts4)

[Cev]

Been doing a lot of reading and to my understanding, hot/cold temp recommendations vary based on amount of KM's on engine?

Motul 8100 5W40 vs Motul 4100 10W40 with 151,xxx k's?

I can afford 300V oils if that would be a better option too - just really confused as to which I should buy. Previous owner (4000 k's ago) got it serviced and they put Penrite 20W60 in :\

[Blackkers]

nothing wrong with using a thick oil mate. those engines are approaching 25 years old. ~10w40 or thicker I would suggest. Depending on boost level I guess; you want to keep the oil film strong when it's hammering.

personally I don't use the super expensive fully synthetic oils as I end up burning most of it or blowby ruins it anyway. Just use a $30-40 bottle of semi-synthetic, make sure you don't ever run low on oil and change it very often.

Edited September 21, 2014 by Blackkers

[Cev]

Will likely go Motul 300V 10W40 Fully Synthetic and see how I go.
I understand the turbolight is roughly half the price, but I've also read synthetic esters are worth their weight in gold and will allow me to shoot for 10,000k oil change intervals.

[Blackkers]

I wouldn't dare go 10k on a factory original RB no matter what the oil is. But suit yourself, I guess keep an eye on the level and it will live

[GTSBoy]

Bollocks. My car usually runs 10k between changes. Modern oils are bloody good.

If thrashed witless, then yes, change more often.

[Blackkers]

fair enough then. After 5000 kms my RB25 has been topped up about 1-1.5L and smells like cheap vodka. running E85 of course.

It sees a hard life though

[Piggaz]

You're going to run $25 a litre oil in a stock rb20?

[R_34]

I'm using valvoline synpower 5w30 which is a fully synthetic oil. After 5000 km i flushed it and made an UOA.

The oil was pretty thinned out but wasn't worn out chemically speaking.

I never went over the 120°C with it and was only street driven seeing 80~100°C most of the time.

So I wouldn't go much over 5000km between flush with low viscosity index like 5w30.

The next flush is due in about 200 km, I'll make an other UOA as I trashed this oil both on the street and on track and I stayed quite a lot of time north of 100°C. Nothing major but still worrying me a little as the previous oil was thinned out with softer driving.

I'll go for an other turn with 5w30 index as winter is coming and maybe go for a thicker oil if the UOA calls it.

[Ben C34]

Penrite hpr10.

Cheap enough and won't make your engine explode. Your engine got this far without expensive oils it doesn't need them now.

[GTSBoy]

fair enough then. After 5000 kms my RB25 has been topped up about 1-1.5L and smells like cheap vodka. running E85 of course.

It sees a hard life though

Yes, well, E85 is a game changer.

[89CAL]

I used to use motul 8100. I use Penrith synthetic (cant remember the proper name) now. I wouldn't hesitate to suggest the motul 8100 or even 4100. Nowhere stocks it where I live anymore so that's one of the reasons I don't use it now

[niZmO_Man]

I wouldn't dare go 10k on a factory original RB no matter what the oil is. But suit yourself, I guess keep an eye on the level and it will live

I ran Penrite 5W-60 in my GT-R for years, serviced every 10,000km when it was driven as a daily. Never burnt oil either (I warmed the car up obviously).

OP, I wouldn't bother with the expensive oils, get Aussie ones (Nulon/Penrite)! But anything around 10W-40 will suffice. HPR10 is fine.

What sort of driving will you be doing?