C34 Adjustable Front Radius Rod/caster Rods

[wolverine]

I just removed the old Nolathane branded arms due to the bushes getting tired and went through the same realisation that new bushes vs new arms pushed things in favour of new arms. I bought the Hardrace rubber ones just like you have.

If you wind on too much castor you risk fouling the tyre on the plastic guard up front so you can cable tie it forward or even better remove the lower screws holding the plastic guard and drag it forward and re-secure it forward.

Wind on max lock and see if the tyre is scrubbing, if it isn't there is more adjustment available, you should be able to wind more on.

[DaveB]

Ah, I see what you mean. No, my tires aren't rubbing on the plastic. Though for some reason, the arms are at their maximum adjustment. Something not quite right here, if you say you can get more than ~4.45 degrees with the same arms.

Do you have a 4WD or 2WD? What camber arems (if any) do you have? I have these:

...they're fairly common I believe... and they are at maximum adjustment as well, and still I have -1.15 degrees camber at the front.

Maximum adjustment for the castor rods means they're wound in as short as they will go. Maximum adjustment for the camber arms means they're wound out as far as they will go. Not sure what's going on, since the car is not overly low (on standard diameter tyres, I can fit two & 1/2 fingers between the tyres and guards - I measure ~355mm wheel centre to guard).

If I can't get more caster with adjustable arms, then I'm stumped.

Something that sticks in my mind though is that when I was measuring up the arms to replace the stock ones, and I had them side-by-side, I'm sure the stock bolt locations required several turns on the hardrace arms to wind it out to make up the length. But I have felt the adjustment on the car, and it seems the passenger side is as short as it will go. Grr.

[wolverine]

Surely maximum adjustment of the castor arms makes them longer not shorter.

[wolverine]

Sorry Dave I must be half asleep shortest position will be max castor.

[DaveB]

No worries I haven't actually confirmed it with anyone, that was just my interpretation of the front suspension geometry based on year 10 metal work (pedal prix) lol. I checked the arms on the car, and there are perhas 1 or 2 threads visible on the driver side and maybe 2 or 3 visible on the passenger side? (the reason these weren't used, I guess, is because the arms would need to be removed to achieve the final adjustment, since one end of the adjustable section has run out of thread).

[KiwiRS4T]

It would be worth your while to undo the arms and turn them to make all the thread disappear. Don't know how much that would give you but if that's not enough... time to take to the turnbuckle with a hacksaw (unless you can find some thinner lock nuts)!

[DaveB]

Great idea, I should have thought of that. I should be able to find some shorter lock nuts because they're quite long; if the ends have enough thread I might also cut some off. Cheers

PS I suspect the threaded rod is attached to the turnbuckle. But if not, then I'll just look at trimming the turnbuckle.

Edited October 30, 2014 by DaveB

[R31 POWER]

DaveB. Did you end up returning the first Hardrace 33 castor rods? If not, i will buy them off you.

[DaveB]

Yes it was a bit of messing around, but I managed to return them and exchange for the GTR version.