Jump to content
SAU Community

Powered By Max Coilovers

Santana
 Share

Recommended Posts

boostn0199 Grand Master

boostn0199

Posted
Posted

Its same as all the other entry budget coilovers like BC ,HSD etc. will do the job. But if your looking for that level of coilover you might aswell buy BC since its local and easy to get warranty support etc. If you want to go a more serious coilover the next level something like shockworks which are leagues above all those entry spec ones you will buy.

boostn0199 Grand Master

boostn0199

Posted
Posted

I

Nah I haven't checked

Im after some quality set, I'm willing to stretch my budget from $1000 to $2000 max do you think shockworks would be best for my budget?

In that case yes definately I would highly recomend shockworks they are 1800. I am using them on my r33 drift car and I have had cusco then bc and the shockworks are in a different league they really are that good. The amount of feedback you feel from your suspension as you drive is what really hit me first time driving with them. Being local aswell they are always happy to give advise on setup, make custom changes for your request and rebuilds are really cheap. For the price you pay for them you wont find anything come near it at a similar price. If you are in melbourne you can go to them and they will take you for a drive through the twisties in there r34 test car which is stock with just the coilovers and you will definately be impressed.

Santana Rookie

Santana

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Someone told me they're really good as well and coming from someone like yourself that used them I think you just convinced me lol thanks a lot I'll have a look at them. I have a 32 drift car and slowly building it so I can compete in SA next season, if you don't mind me asking what arms setup and knuckle you got in your? I was thinking going Gktech but heard good and bad about and driftworks, powered my MAX are they overpriced or what? What do guys on here run on there R chassis?

GTSBoy Grand Master

GTSBoy

Posted
Posted

powered my MAX are they overpriced or what?

How can something that's only ~$1000 be overpriced? You seriously expect to be able to buy a full set of springs, dampers, upper and lower mounting hardware for much less?

I mean sure, all these cheap coilover kits are nasty, so from that point of view you're buying a polished turd, which by definition means it's overpriced. But expecting to get it for $800, or $750? A single good quality damper costs nearly that much on its own.

Santana Rookie

Santana

Posted
  • Author
Posted

No I'm not talking about overpriced coilovers for 1000? Like I said I'm willing to pay up to $2000 for a set. I'm talking about their arms and knuckles by MAX, driftworks and all the big named company are they as good as their prices just wondering if you guys used them?

boostn0199 Grand Master

boostn0199

Posted
Posted

Someone told me they're really good as well and coming from someone like yourself that used them I think you just convinced me lol thanks a lot I'll have a look at them. I have a 32 drift car and slowly building it so I can compete in SA next season, if you don't mind me asking what arms setup and knuckle you got in your? I was thinking going Gktech but heard good and bad about and driftworks, powered my MAX are they overpriced or what? What do guys on here run on there R chassis?

Yeah mate all the guys that have made the switch to shockworks have not looked back everyone has been impressed. On my setup adj arms I'm using driftworks for camber traction castor arms and knuckles are JDI (place in melb) alot of victorian drift scene guys use them for S/R chassis. Ive had the drifworks arms for 3 years now and still fine no problems, gktech arms from what I have seen tend to be alright it was more the alloy knuckles which had some problems.

boostn0199 Grand Master

boostn0199

Posted
Posted

Thanks a lot for the tips..!! I'm running jdi knuckles on mine as well great stuff really happy with what they did ton mine. Do you know who's the distributor for driftworks in Australia apart from shop cartel?

I only know of cartel in Aus but I get mine direct from driftworks it works out cheaper then cartel and usually prob quicker since they ship with fedex i have it in a 3or4 days from ordering.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Dose Pipe Sutututu
      S1 rb25/s14 starting problem

      By Dose Pipe Sutututu · Posted

      When you crank your car, and hit it with a timing light, can you see a steady crank timing?
    • PranK
      My BMW E39 528i touring

      By PranK · Posted

      Oh, forgot to add, A few months ago I was getting mixture codes and the car was using crap loads of fuel. You could smell the unburned fuel in the exhaust, it was crazy strong. Economy was over 17.5 l/100 and usually around 19. I smoked the engine and found a leaky CCV hose which I replaced and then I replaced my two pre cat O2 sensors, I also replaced the MAF. This fixed my mixture codes and improved my exonomy but I'm still 14 - 15 l/100 when pottering about town so something is still amiss. Throttle response is much better and it has more pep but I'd like to know why it's still so thirsty (and I'm hoping that whatever it is gives me a bit more poke).    
    • 25zenki
      S1 rb25/s14 starting problem

      By 25zenki · Posted

      Car is on factory injectors/z32 maf/ q45 throttle body/ z32 ecu with nistune 
    • 25zenki
      S1 rb25/s14 starting problem

      By 25zenki · Posted

      Hello all, currently finishing up a rb25 swap into my s14. Having issues with starting, car has spark (confirmed by pulling a plug and watching it spark), has fuel(confirmed by checking pulse/voltage at injectors all spark plugs are soaked in fuel). Car cranks over and pops into the exhaust with a heavy fuel smell but no attempt to start or run, I have torn the timing cover off and triple confirmed timing, turned the CAS in multiple spots both directions, attempted to start with coolant temp and maf unplugged, checked my fuel lines and made sure they weren’t backwards, checked voltage at cas/injectors/coilpacks, made sure all the grounds in the harness are connected and added a few grounding straps (1 from chassis to block, 1 from chassis to head, and 1 from chassis to igniter chip) I am getting stumped here. As a last ditch effort I made a full grounding harness tonight that’s going to run from the battery and add an extra ground from the battery onto the coil pack harness/igniter chip/ intake manifold/ Wiring specialties harness ground/ and alternator. I’m hoping maybe the grounding harness will fix it here but posting here to see if anyone has any other ideas on what else I can check. My fuel pressure is unknown right gauge will be here tomorrow.  IMG_3206.mov
    • CRSKmD
      R32 Sedan - Grip and Drift (have my cake and eat it too build)

      By CRSKmD · Posted

      yeah I was shocked when I checked my spare OEM on and as below that's how they come from Nissan. (side interesting note new NEO gearbox and replacement park lack the brass bush on the tips and its just all alloy) unsure about damage to the box currently back at 1110 to be pulled down/inspected and selector fork replaced as he built it previously and given the never before seen failure on his billet forks he is replacing it under warranty. He said he has used always OEM the keyway tab without issue for years so it could be an unlucky coincidence. I did talk to him about the sharp corners and stress concentration too. Re: hard shifts i got 7+ years out of the OEM one and the fork itself failed not the keyway. so could be bad luck as I said or an age thing + heat cycles in box and during fabrication of billet?
×
×
  • Create New...