Biggest Low Mount Turbo On Rb25Det

[DK-Spec]

Hey Guys from the other side of the Globe :-D

i`m not as new as it seems but it`s my first post / thread and post here and i hope you`ll not beat me for that question... Well, i own a ECR33 since 2010 and i`m on the way to build my second engine for over 500hp. I`m hunting for 500-550 engine hp so i guess thats about 305-315rwkw... prerequisite for my build is..

- IT MUST BE BOTTOM (LOW) MOUNTED prefered IWG and Journal Bearing in case of wear ^^

I`ve found like a lot people here the maker KINUGAWA and it seems they have good stuff especially these are build on MHI chargers or Garrett...

So i thought the right Turbo could be a TD06H 25G because it`s +- the same size (wheels) as GT3076R... But will the TD06 fit in with aftermarket or OEM low mount manifold??

PLEASE ADVISE ME THE RIGHT TUBBY!^^

Edited September 25, 2014 by DK-Spec

[iruvyouskyrine]

Yes any TD06/GT30 and equivalent precision etc can be low mounted without too much hassle. Will need a T3 manifold spacer for front housing clearance on the exhaust manifold though. Cracking 300kw at the rear wheels low mounted with a reasonable stealthy setup is no issue nowdays.

I have heard that all Kinugawa turbos have issues with internal gate setup. I have experienced it twice firsthand so dont really want to recommend them. Externally gated they are fine. But what I suggest is a Hypergear ATR43SS2. It is a true bolt on turbo with hardly any modification required and will make the power no worries. No issues with the internal gate either.

What fuel will you be using?

[DK-Spec]

thanks for you super fast reply :-D

i`ll use BP 98 octan / RON

Ou what i`ve forget to mention...i would like to have at least 550Nm at the wheels ^^"

Here`s my spec...

RB25det with aftermarket equal length low mount manifold (T3 flange)

- Head: channels smoothed but not really widened and standart valves and lifters, maybe tomei pon cams

- Block: Wiseco 87mm Pistons, RB26dett shot peened rods...with 1.1mm MLS HG (compression ratio was i think about 8.5:1)

- ARP bolts for Head and Rods

- N1 Waterpump and N1 oilpump maybe with Reimax internals...will see ^^"

- don`t know about the Bearings..if Nismo or ACL...

- Exhaust: 3 inch downpipe, 200cpsi Metall Cat, HKS Super Drager

WHATS EXACTLY THE ISSUE WITH THE KINUGAWA I-GATES? Are these too small?? Possible to widen them?

Edited September 25, 2014 by DK-Spec

[zebra]

Borgwarner EFR 7670 appears (off their drawings) will fit low mounted nicely.

Would be my pick

[Kinkstaah]

Your clearance may or may not work depending on the manifold you have, as it isn't a stock one..

But with a standard manifold you can fit a 3582 down there. My car has a GTX3076R but doesn't actually need a spacer at all to get it to fit.

Going to depend entirely on your non-stock manifold though, would have to test fit or take measurements as that kind of changes everything..

[iruvyouskyrine]

Yep what Kinkstahh said, pics of engine would help greatly.

[DK-Spec]

XD engine isn`t build...most parts are still in boxes so...it`s not possible to show you the engine with the manifold fitted.

heres a ebay link that shows the manifold... http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/NISSAN-Skyline-R33-RB25DET-Turbo-Exhaust-Manifold-T3-MF6205-/190481976244?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item2c599c4bb4

i`ve bought mine second hand and i`m not sure if it`s exactly the same but as far as i know it should be the it..

Still have a stock manifold but when i can push few horses more with a better flow manifold i will do that ^^" If it`s not possible to fit with China manifold i`ll take the Nissan one :-)

Important for me is that it looks stealthy! the Turbo should be as small as possible and big as needed to reach over 300rwkw/550Nm at maximum 20psi. i`ve heard and read that the stock valvetrain is suffering when boosting over 20psi...is that so?

[Ben C34]

Wouldn't use that manifold if you paid me.

It is not worth your trouble. It will crack as per all cheap stainless manifolds eventually.

[KiwiRS4T]

Use the stock manifold and Borg Warner as above or contact Hypergear tell him exactly what you want and he can supply.

[DK-Spec]

yes i know about the cheap china stuff but...it was used about 10000km so i hope the critical time which was prone to crack is over and the material is now ready for a real manifold life. btw. i will weld some reinforcement struts from flange to flange...to minimize the load on die piping...

more interessting is...how good these manifolds are in case of flow? O.o

[DK-Spec]

seems to be exactly the same position as the oem manifold...

[Ben C34]

Forwards to back doesn't matter much. What about distance from the engine?

[DK-Spec]

Distanz is same as OEM

It really looks so that china has let all flanges on oem place and made as good as possible a tubular one

[Ben C34]

So long as you like it.

I wouldn't touch it.

Is that your stock manifold? What's going on with cylinders 4,5 and 6? Did the engine die?

Edited September 26, 2014 by Ben C34

[Ben C34]

I reread your first post and your onto another engine. Did you sort out why it died?

[DK-Spec]

no no it`s not died :-D

I hope I will never have to experience how my motor dies..

In my R33 still lives the first Engine and it runs pretty well but i`m sure it will not live forever and because it`s old and i don`t know about his life before ME i`ve decided to buy a second RB25det to built it and make it as proof as possible for my budget and the power. The first engine which is still running i will overhaul then...will be as new from factory :-)

So i have now a completet engine in boxes thats why i was able to make a Pic of both manifolds.

Is the oem manifold not restrictive compared to china?

Oh and.. i bought 2 years ago a RB25det with a strage damage...the owner had no idea what was wrong...

Car was STOCK only a catback and HKS mushrom. At Autobahn 120km/h 5. Gear the engine made BANG and run like a sack of nuts... I`ve bought it unopend for 280,-

As i opend it and pulled out the Crank 1 piston was still in a Cylinder ^^"

Don`t know how or why but the 1. zylinder Rod has given up his Job...the Piston was cracked and Rod was a 2 piece thing...well..piston was not in 2 as well...relly bad stuff in the Sump.

Zylinder not repairable i guess...for sure it must be rebored over 87mm...i doubt 88mm would be enough :-( Crank also destroyed...must be grinded a lot and i`m sure that makes it not better for more torque..

Edited September 26, 2014 by DK-Spec

[KiwiRS4T]

Stock manifold will make 315kw and be a lot stronger than cheap Chinese stainless.

[skewy33]

Kinugawa td06 external gate could push 300 but 280 is safe and enough from street use

[skewy33]

Stock modified manifold

[hypergear]

There is an extend for either of the manifolds listed above, its obvious the aftermarket manifold managed to make more power on less boost.

Pink is using factory exhaust manifold,

Thick red is the Made in China manifold that cracked after this dyno day and binned.

Thin red is an properly made Brae side mount manifold, that is still going strong over 100+ dyno days.

Turbocharger used is an Older version of ATR43-SS2 turbo that is internally gated and direct bolton to factory manifold, dump pipe, water lines and oil drain. From memory E85 was used for this particular experiment.

And of course either of the manifolds are comparable to an proper high mount running 50mm external gate.

Exact same turbocharger, no other changes apart from an proper high mount and 50mm gate.

Latest result from current ATR43SS-2 internally gated bolt-on to stock exhaust manifold and factory dump pattern running p98 fuel can be found here.

In terms of the largest bolton or low mount turbocharger, we can build them way over 700HP. Except this type of log manifold and internal gated system can not discharge that much air that satisfy full compressor efficiency. So 300rwkws or around 500HP would be the largest recommendation if you are looking for a direct bolt on turbo.