Biggest Low Mount Turbo On Rb25Det

[DK-Spec]

great dyno sheets!!! Thanks a lot!

well...i would love to fit a top mount but unfortunatly my R33 is tested and registrated with oem low mount setup.With 300rwkw+ i will drive absolutly illegal on street but thats no problem as far as no one is seeing that it`s not standart like. At the Homologization they made a pic of my engine bay...NOT FROM TURBO so when i fit it top mount and the police or (MFK)

[hypergear]

In this case it would be best to high flow your factory turbocharger. It is a brand new turbocharger with larger metallic wheels, with your standard compressor and turbine housings machined to suit. For standard 21U R33 turbocharger, they usually make a very responsive 260rwkws after high flowing, and factory appearance looking from out side.

[DK-Spec]

thats not necessary because they have no clue about the turbo...no one will ever tell which turbo was fitted at the homologization ^^" only thing what they can say is that it`s been low and not top mounted.

I want minimum 500hp at the fly low mounted and if possible IWG. thats my goal and less than that is not acceptable ;-)

so...why is there such a big difference between low and top mount manifolds? i`ve seen yesterday a pic of a KAZAMA Low Mount and it doesn`t look so different than mine...a second chinese manifold which u can buy on e-bay looks really crappy...

the one that i got

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/NISSAN-Skyline-R33-RB25DET-Turbo-Exhaust-Manifold-T3-MF6205-/190481976244?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item2c599c4bb4

the one that looks crappy

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/low-mount-T3-turbo-exhaust-manifold-NISSAN-skyline-cefiro-STAGEA-RB20-RB25-TURBO-/231115499171?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item35cf8ea6a3

i think mine is the better construction even the quality is same china 50:50 crap

heres a TOG Manifold same piping as mine china

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/TOG-Steam-Pipe-NISSAN-SKYLINE-R32-R33-R34-RB20-RB25-LOW-MOUNT-EXHAUST-MANIFOLD-/181343084383?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item2a38e3df5f

[Kinkstaah]

You can do what you are asking for.. with the stock manifold. It's also far less likely to break. It is certainly not stainless still made in china. It will flow 500hp at the fly.

The reason you go high, is really to fit turbos that don't really fit down low. Turbos which provide far more than 500hp at the fly, on engines that have already been rebuilt to support it..

You already have the solution to your problem

[34GeeTeeTee]

You can do what you are asking for.. with the stock manifold. It's also far less likely to break. It is certainly not stainless still made in china. It will flow 500hp at the fly.

The reason you go high, is really to fit turbos that don't really fit down low. Turbos which provide far more than 500hp at the fly, on engines that have already been rebuilt to support it..

You already have the solution to your problem

Not always built hehe

[Kinkstaah]

Sorry, I was referring to Turbos which can only be mounted up top as they're too big to physically fit low mounted... doing that on a stock motor is usually ill-advised!

On that note, anyone know if you can fit a Precision 6466 down low?

[DK-Spec]

Okay so i`ll take when it comes to it to a water cooled core TD06 25G IWG...still don`t know why theres a problem with the gates (as posted page 1) because nobody answered that question but as far i know it`s the same issue with better chinese chargers...the gates are too small so i will port it and put a bigger flappy in.

Or i can get a Hyper gear ATR43SS2 for a good price.

Also i still don`t know where the China manifold broke on the Dyno (as posted page 1) but i will reinforce it and hope it will hold...btw. is it a good idea to build a manifold from 2 or 3mm non stainless steel?

Future Spec: (almost all part ready in garage)

- 87mm Block with MLS HG, Wiseco pistons, shot peened RB26dett Rods with ARP Bolts, Balanced Crank with Crank coller, N1 Water + oil pump

- Aerospace grade blasted Cylinderhead with machined channels and combustion chamber, Tomei Poncams and standart Lifters (maybe Tomei Valvesprings...but rev limit will be only about 7500rpm...)

- TD06 25G or ATR43SS2 at 20 PSI (possible to go more on standart lifters?) China Manifold as long as it holds ^^"

- ARC induction Box, ARC FMIC Turn Flow

- 3" Dp, 200cpsi Cat, 3.5" HKS Super Drager

- TOMEI 270lph Fuel Pump

- 740cc Nismo Injectors (+Nismo FPR)

- E-Manage Ultimate

- 16 row Oil cooler with thermostat

I think that should be a good enough set to get the 300rwkw...or am i wrong?

[Blackkers]

no that will do just fine. but you don't need a nismo FPR. the factory one will be fine. Ditch the e-manage and use a different ECU.

for unless you're drifting or doing circuit work you don't need an aftermarket oil cooler. If you're worried grab a oil temp gauge

[DK-Spec]

got a cooler because the Autobahn and few tracks as Nürburgring, Hockenheim, Dijon and smaller are not so far away and when i go pushing it shouldn`t get any heat issues...

i have enough gauges ^^" Fuel pres, Oil temp, Oil Pres, EGT, Boost, A/F, Speed, Injection...so i`m confident that I do not lose the overview ;-)

FPR isn`t needed i know but i got one :-p

whats wrong with the e-manage?? there are other cars which running 700+ with e-manage BLUE o.O

I know that it sounds stupid...spending big money on the engine and skimping on the ECU but seriously...WHATS WRONG WITH THAT? I do not see any advantages to buy a expensive ECU like LINK, MoTec, Haltech or other stand alones...mine EMU was pretty inexpencive and i`m able to make everywhere corrections 16x16 resulution...

don`t make me unnecessary anxiety without justification

btw. why does it makes just fine?? (the setup) i`ve seen 500bhp (engine) builds which were done on a stock engine...nothing forged or head work only big turbo, injectors, mushroom filter and free exhaust.

What do i need to get it right when you say its only fine? ^^"

Edited September 29, 2014 by DK-Spec

[Blackkers]

I think there's a bit of a language barrier mate. I meant that your set up will do what you want, there's just a few things that aren't necessary in there. That's okay though it comes down to preference.

[scotty nm35]

There are good reasons to use a standalone over an Emanage, and getting 300kw out of it will be pushing the Emanage to it's limits. You need to understand how they work, perhaps do some research?

You really don't want the stock ecu dropping some timing in at that power, unless you run e85 and leave some headroom.

[DK-Spec]

give me a link to understand it...because i can`t find anything about it :-(

[DK-Spec]

I've read now in a lexus forum about the tunability from E-manage Ultimate vs. AEM EMS.

The Tuner which explaind has written...

EMU is good for a daily because it runns smoother and idles better because of the factory ECU issue wit the EMU is that its not so exact tuneable in detail as a stand alone so it can be that in high HP aplications may rough timing occure or other EMU mistakes which shouldnt be a real problem for a daily or street car. The guy builds a 370rwkw 2jz-ge+t and uses the EMU to find out whres the limit of the EMU

[GTSBoy]

E-manage is a strap on dildo. Standalone ECU is a real penis.

[zebra]

JZ ecus are a different ball game to Nissan ECU's

you can run 550cc injectors off a 1JZ ecu and it wont care, Its pretty much closed loop all the way through the rev range and throttle position.

and has a huge scope of corrections.

RB ecus have a shit fit if you give it 2psi more boost than standard.

[wolverine]

How did you become an expert in penises?

[DK-Spec]

nevermind penises we all have one... this thread is about TURBOOOO!!

I know that a piggyback isn`t the real deal but i`m not a Harakiri street/track racer...i`ll just want that power to have it ^^" i love it to floor it for few seconds and be pressed in the seat...

Here in switzerland it`s almost impossible to use more than 100 engine hp...legal

The R33 is my sunday ride and i`m using it a bit for touge (god bless the alps) and maybe 5 times a year on the track for drift & fun. I`m a pretty economical driver...simply because of money at the moment 10,5l per 100km.

Question is...will it do the Job or not? btw. even a strap on can satisfy (i`ve heard so :-p)

Edited September 30, 2014 by DK-Spec

[Blackkers]

it sounds like you're going to go with the piggy back regardless of advice given.

have fun upgrading in less than 12 months time

[DK-Spec]

yes because heres no concrete reasons for me so far why I should take a different ECU...

..its not a help to designate something as crap without explanation and justification :-/

in different boards i read that it`s only good for mild tuning (stage 2) then the other boards say it`s fine because it can as much as a standalone but it`s limited...

So...i can`t find anything on the WWW which says that the ECU is really crap...maybe it`s not the best option but it works.

mostly to read is that it`s fine...

can i alter the Nissan ECU signals enough with the EMU or not? if not then it`s clear...i need a standalone but if the range of adjustability is enough i will try it with.

Don`t think wrong about me...

..i`m a JDM fan and I will never say that EUDM (BMW etc) cars are shit if I can not justify it...unfotunatly these cars are in many cases big shit but i know it and can explain...

[M@&k]

The forced induction quick reference guide on here has a few threads about the EMU.

I think the point most are making is that you may be fine with the EMU, but your best chance of meeting your goal would be with a stand alone ECU.