Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

clearing some stuff hopefully

R34 GTR v-spec rear diff not sure exactly what type it is. the only numbers I could see inside were as follows SS39:11 D 0 4 11

hopefully some one can identify it for me. Looking for $700

Full rear subframe including everything pictured. drive shafts, hubs, knuckles, sway bar, all arms, ready to bolt in $1000

Full front subframe including everything pictured. drive shafts one is missing a bit. hubs, knuckles, all arms, steering rack

ready for an AWD conversion $1300

Cluch pedal and cylinder $200

Aragosta Japanese coilovers $3k new, still in great condition, rubbers havnt even started to perish. comes with the extended damper adjuster through the rear parcel tray looking for $1500

ABS unit $100

Rear Tail shaft $150

Front Quarters in bayside blue $600

Nismo clear side indicators $60

Nismo Fuel pump $200

all pickup from western Sydney 2146

and all prices reasonably negotiable

post-69199-0-80579100-1411793273_thumb.jpg

post-69199-0-92751900-1411793276_thumb.jpg

post-69199-0-74130400-1411793280_thumb.jpg

post-69199-0-30903800-1411793286_thumb.jpg

post-69199-0-41044100-1411793290_thumb.jpg

post-69199-0-81559600-1411793296_thumb.jpg

post-69199-0-31128900-1411793301_thumb.jpg

post-69199-0-46883100-1411793311_thumb.jpg

post-69199-0-56234800-1411793321_thumb.jpg

post-69199-0-44686800-1411793372_thumb.jpg

post-69199-0-46429300-1411793379_thumb.jpg

post-69199-0-49306100-1411793384_thumb.jpg

post-69199-0-13992400-1411793391_thumb.jpg

post-69199-0-54272700-1411793395_thumb.jpg

post-69199-0-75664100-1411793400_thumb.jpg

post-69199-0-65632300-1411793403_thumb.jpg

post-69199-0-93265000-1411793489_thumb.jpg

post-69199-0-42847800-1411793495_thumb.jpg

post-69199-0-82798000-1411793497_thumb.jpg

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 3 weeks later...

Quarters sold

price drops

diff $500

rear subframe $600

front complete subframe $700

Coilovers have been informed they also fit r33 gtr $1400

abs $50

tail shaft $50

  • 3 weeks later...

I was going to tell you that a V-spec diff is worth nothing. They are active LSDs which have AIDS and no-one wants them.

BUUUUUT......Yours might not be. You might want to take better photos of the centre, focusing on the openings in the pumpkin.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • This was a huge help.  We followed the steps,  although shifting into 2nd was actually into 3rd for us,  and 1st was into 2nd ( steps 9 and 11) .  The long flash was the 4th flash.  So shift solenoid A is possibly the culprit.  Is this inside the transmission itself? Or is it accessible by just front the pan? Or is it bolted to the outside of the transmission?  Thanos for your help everyone
    • Can you enlighten me on your best practice regarding these hoses? I don't wanna make the same mistake if you already got a better solution.
    • I have some silicon hoses already, for example engine to watercooler. But yeah, I get the sentiment. The lower intercooler silicon hose is drippy too, despite not being very old. Does anyone except Nismo make these same lines out of rubber? Long term I think they'd be the better replacement, especially since the car won't live as hard a life anymore as in the past nor be driven as often.
    • I know most issues are just age related. But for example the turbo oil drains, there is dash adapters for these and you can just make a braided teflon line for them and (probably) never have them leak again. Also not terribly expensive. Can you even get the factory hardlines from new? Or are they repairable if they break?
    • I know it'd be much much easier with the tool. I hope I can find one that won't take 3 weeks to get to me an isn't a "Asian models kit" that has tons of (to me) useless adapters for a load of cash.   It's a summer project/fun car. I do wanna enjoy it, without endless downtime over and over. So yeah I would even go and buy an engine crane + stand to save myself the trouble of hard to reach or unreachable places going bad later on. Would also be a good opportunity to put on a Fluidamper, renew the mains seals and stuff like that. I have some money on the side that I can use for that, what I wouldn't want to or be able to do is let everything be done by a shop or have my engine completely rebuild right now. I intend to do most of the "doable" jobs myself. Pulling an engine can't be that hard, can it?
×
×
  • Create New...