Jump to content
SAU Community

Pull Type Clutch Won't Disengage

iruvyouskyrine
 Share

Recommended Posts

iruvyouskyrine Grand Master

iruvyouskyrine

Posted
Posted

Hey all.

R34 GT-T gearbox with NPC carbotic single plate clutch. Was installed and running fine but engine died so it come out and is going on to the new engine. It looked in perfect condition when it came out.

So put it back in and now it will not disengage at all. Have bled/adjusted the pedal about 26 times now so I can confirm that it's not the issue. Pedal feel is excellent and I will attatch a video of clutch fork movement. Looking inside the box you can clearly see the release bearing pulling back the fingers of the pressure plate what looks like more than enough distance to disengage it.

As far as I am aware the only step you can gosh darn up in the install is putting the clutch itself in backwards? I didn't think it was possible but that's about the only thing I can think of.

Will having it in backwards make the clutch unable to be disengaged?

Any advice/help is appreciated. Thanks.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/449093-pull-type-clutch-wont-disengage/
Share on other sites
iruvyouskyrine Grand Master

iruvyouskyrine

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Should also say that it was working perfectly with the R32 clutch master previously but won't disengage with the R33 master I now use. But by the look of these videos I'm 99% sure it's not master cylinder issue.

iruvyouskyrine Grand Master

iruvyouskyrine

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Okay so it's something internal. Moved the clutch fork until it hit the front of the hole cut out in the bell housing aka absolute full clutch fork travel. Still will not disengage the clutch.

What could go wrong with the pressure plate/clutch plate to cause it to still be engaged even though the release bearing is pulling on the diaphragm?

Ben C34 Grand Master

Ben C34

Posted
Posted (edited)

Nothing. Except for maybe it being in backwards.

Either way you aren't going to be able to fox it from the outside. Face the facts and whip the box out.

Edited by Ben C34
iruvyouskyrine Grand Master

iruvyouskyrine

Posted
  • Author
Posted

I know that Benny boy. Just asking if there is any known issues before I beak it open, find everything looks fine and put it all back together and have it not work.

I hope it is something as simple as clutch plate backwards but when I touch stuff it never is. Just got me stumped that it won't disengage even though the release carrier is doing it's job.

iruvyouskyrine Grand Master

iruvyouskyrine

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Box out.

Clutch looks good (definitely on the correct way, like I said, impossible to put single plate on backwards) pressure plate looks good, flywheel good, carrier bearing good.

Box in.

Exactly the same problem.

gosh darn.

Broken box?

iruvyouskyrine Grand Master

iruvyouskyrine

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Okay.

Clutch master is actuating the slave about an inch and has excellent pedal feel the entire way to the floor, so I would say that is fine.

Clutch slave has a decent amount of throw and no leaks etc, so I think that's fine.

Clutch fork is all good, not bent/cracked etc and the pivot point is all good.

Carrier bearing looked fine no abnormal marks etc.

Clutch disc itself looked fine.

Pressure plate looked fine although I wasn't sure exactly what I was looking for, just looking for general abnormalities. Also the carrier bearing is pulling on the pressure plate diaphragm and is pulling it out as it should.

So everything appears to be in a working condition.

When the car is on jackstands it can be started in any gear and the wheels turn freely and change speed with acceleration. This would indicate the part of the gearbox is fine Imagine (not sure what part as I'm no specialist). I also started the car in 1st gear and drove it around no issues.

When it was driving I was unable to get it out of first though, I was applying a decent amount of pressure on the shifter but it just didn't want to come out of first.

So yeah I have been thinking about it for the last 4 days and have not come up with a single idea that hasn't had a logical conclusion as to why it can't be that part that isn't functioning correctly.

Cash reward offered to the first person that tells me what the issue to my problem is.

MrStabby Grand Master

MrStabby

Posted
Posted

"I also started the car in 1st gear and drove it around no issues." how did you do that with an engaged clutch?

Or is your problem actually "gearbox will not shift out of first" rather than "clutch will not disengage" ?

iruvyouskyrine Grand Master

iruvyouskyrine

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Spoke to Doug at NPC, the maker of my clutch. After I gave him all the information from the testing I have done he said the only thing it could be is a bent clutch plate. Da fark. How did that happen? Anyway.

He was kind enough to send me another one free of charge.

Put new clutch plate it and no change. Feels exactly the same as before. Can anyone recommend a gearbox place in Newcastle? I would rather slam my dick in a door for the next 48 hours than try and fix this piece of shit.

  • 1 year later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • soviet_merlin
      Thanks Santa (the neverending trials of the 400,000klm, 400kw, RB30, manual swapped Stagea)

      By soviet_merlin · Posted

      Thanks Duncan! Yeah it's street use for me only. Maybe occasional track day. Any difference in noise when running with the two pumps? I would expect the lift pump to be more quiet than the main pump so hopefully not? And yes, unfortunately quite a big price difference to the simple hanger setup. Though I'm usually willing to trade money for better reliability and future-proofing. Buy once, cry once and all that. I'd be very happy to never have to deal with fuel pump / wiring issues again  
    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      The old manifold was quite under the GTR strut brace.  The new manifold is quite [unknown] the GTR strut brace. The GTR strut brace was needed to clear the bonnet vents. The Old strut brace will almost certainly clear the new manifold, but not the bonnet vents. The old strut brace will almost certainly clear the new manifold, and the new bonnet without vents. But I am hoping the GTR strut brace clears the new manifold :p
    • The Bogan
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By The Bogan · Posted

      Bonnet clearance?
    • joshuaho96
      Magnetic Drain Plug Snapped in Half

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      On the bright side, at least you knew that it happened and remedied before anything happened. A friend of mine just took his Fiat 124 to a shop for an oil change and they didn't tighten the oil filter housing properly. 4.5 quarts spewed out and even after refilling + tightening the cap the engine has a tick now.
    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      So, more pain. The FAST manifold is a little larger than the stocker. This is problematic because there really wasn't much clearance to begin with, so going from 'barely enough' well into 'no' is sad based on the external dimensions of the thing, even though where it bolts to the head is the same. Result is the fuel rails sit a good 25mm higher, and this is a bit of an issue with the wiring that runs behind the motor, and the fuel lines, and everything else. When pushing the manifold on, it required a huge amount of force to crush wiring looms to fit it, sensors like the MAP sensor are about 1mm from the firewall, and the FPR just has to bend ABS lines to be forced into place. After some brainstorming and some sad drinking, the loom for some reason ran from the grommet behind the ABS sensor, then to the driver side head, then back to the passenger side head. So all of this was pulled back and stripped, a few wires cut and rejoined, so that the 'branch' was now on the passenger side's head as below: Before you basically couldn't see anything behind the driver head. This is much improved! The MAP sensor is now pointing up (instead of at the firewall) Brackets have been made up for the rail. The rails are for a LS1, the manifold is designed around a LS2 as it's base. Which of course has slightly different bracketry and water pump clearance, hence the mods people need to do. Should be hopefully mounted tonight. I spent money on a new FPR that is slightly more compact than my Turbosmart FPR1200. The gauge has also been moved to the rail. There's also apparently an ORB to AN Union instead of the adapter, because the ~25mm of the current adapter is going to make the difference. Provided this all goes together and arrives today, it'll be the totally not stressful attempt to start it.
×
×
  • Create New...