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I got to mine with a 3inch exhaust basically in the way just using my 1/2 inch ratchet straight into the plug ( or a short extention can't remember)

Finding it is harder than undoing it!

Ah well the car is going onto stands soon/this afternoon. Going to change the oil in my transfer case (hasn't been done since I've owned it) and maybe have a stab at flushing my gearbox. I bought some chef synthetic atf from supercheap a while ago to do the job (says it's matic d compliant/compatible).

I ended up flagging the rear diff and serviced my transfer case instead (did it with the car on the ground reaching under).

Car's too much effort to get off the ground, doesn't go up ramps I need to drive onto blocks of wood to get a jack under it and when I jack up one end and put it on stands I can't fit the jack under the other end lol. Might leave that one to the professionals.

fkin A!

its a difficult job on the floor

plug often super tight

may need to remove cat back to get at it with enough leverage

and then you need to refill the damn thing from below, and fluid doesn't like travelling uphill.

dead easy on a hoist with the right tools

Hmm I didn't realise it was that much hassle. Ive done them quite a few times, and done it when I have the car up on 4 stands.

As I mentioned, a few flex joints helps to do the twisting outside the wheel well. Another pair of hands helps too! It's tricky keeping a floppy pole in a hole.

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    • I mean, if you were to move the jacking points away from the original location, that is, away from the wheels and closer to the centreline of the car, then it will be more likely to overbalance and tip off the supports. Same as we talked about before. I was talking about moving for-aft. If the sill is bent outward or inward, then the car would obviously look unstraight from the outside. Hopefully that hasn't happened either. Again, you can do comparative measurements from the chassis rails to see if there is much deflection.
    • Can you elaborate what you mean with your first sentence? I meant move as in the bulge kinda seemed like it got pulled "outward" meaning it got pulled down and to the side with the jacking rail itself, so the load bearing bulge now sits lower than usual and is not level with the sill on the other side of the jack point. Either that or the jacking rail just got pushed in a good bit.
    • As well as being risky WRT tipping off anyway. Yeah, I wouldn't expect it to move. Just measure from the rear one to the front one on the good side, then measure that same length on the wrecked side. You will find the notches in the pinchweld, and the jacking pad. Just spray a spot of marker paint or something there.
    • but any other area than the bulge you are talking about will just cave in then? The front driver side is pretty bent so I don't know if that will work the way it is now. I can still kinda make out where that bulge is/was but it looks like the position of it also changed due to all the mistreatment? Hard to tell
    • Absolutely. Look very closely at the photo (of yours) that I took my second snip of. See how the sill is thicker material right behind the pinchweld, where the two notches are? That is the factory reinforced area for lifting. That pad is supposed to carry the weight. The factory jack (go look at it, and how it interfaces with the car at the pinchweld) shows you exactly how the load is carried from the car to the jack to the ground.
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