Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi,

Have a bit of an issue with my mr30 its an l24e running a l20et turbo setup. Car was running fine two days ago went to start it next morning fired for few seconds ran rough and died when i let throttle go, then wouldnt start again just keeps turning over. Knew it was very low on fuel Placed about 10ltrs in, primed it fired briefly died then hasnt fired since. I have checked all cyl for spark, fpr sitting on about 30psi at rail (thought it norm has more) checked a few plugs and they seem to have fuel getting through. If anyone has any ideas or knows of anything that can cause this please help getting very annoyed with it.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/449330-r30-start-issues/
Share on other sites

I have spent the last day going through every electric related to starting I can think of and cant find a prob, spark is jumping about an inch on every cyl fuel psi is sitting on 40 and plugs keep fouling + can see fuel coming out exhaust when turning over. This has me completely stumped it was running perfectly one day then wouldnt start at all the next.(have taken all plugs out cleaned them and jumped with another car to rule out just being flooded). If any1 has any idea at all what it could be plz reply.

Not sure if your engine has an Air Regulator like the RB30 but they can stick in the closed position, not letting enough air through on coldstart which leaves the mix way too rich. (The air regulator should be open when cold and then close up as they get warmer)

Old Engines are Fun. :/

  • 3 weeks later...

Check your Afm, Might need the resistor slider cleaned, Also check the bypass adjustment on the afm also. Your Water temp Sensor (ecu) might be faulty. Those L Serries ECU's are prone to water damage, And pin corrosion, Unplug the ecu and clean each pin with some sandpaper, put some contact grease on them, Try and do something similar on the loom plugs. See how you go after that

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Good morning all, Bit of a random question but figured I’d finally throw it out after wondering for a long while. Before I start, I'm hoping to do this purely out of personal preference. I think it would look better at night, and don't mind at all spending a few hours and dollars to get it done. I've copied this from a non-Skyline specific forum, so I apologize for the explanation of our headlight switch setup that we all know. Here we go: Zero lights (switch off) Parking lights (switch position 1) being a rectangular marker on the outside of the housing, my low beam being the projector in the centre (position 2), and a high beam triggered by my turn signal stalk. Most North American cars I’ve owned of this era have power to the amber corner (turning indicator) light as part of the first switch (parking lights). I’d love to have these amber corners receive power when the headlights and parking lights are on (headlight switch), yet still blink when using the turn signal which is of course a separate switch. Hopefully I’ve explained my question correctly. Is anyone aware of a way in which I might be able to achieve this? Thanks in advance
    • My heads are cathedral port! It's likely possible, but I don't want to add any extra moving parts (I know they don't move) between the heads, manifolds, etc. It will also affect how injectors/fuel rails etc sit and I don't really know if it would change how the FAST manifold goes/sits/fits. I have the LS6 steam pipes already as I have a very late LS1 block so it should be fine. I couldn't find anyone who had ever actually used one for this purpose, it seems 100% of people grind the water pump. The thermal spacers are 12mm and are half way to the cost of the newer water pump anyhow... so if it comes to that I suppose I'd rather buy a new pump. The bearing in the pump I do have is a little.. clunky, but it hasn't done that much time and I never noticed it when the car was together in the past few years, so..
    • The bushing has failed, not all that uncommon for a car of this age.  Any mechanic should be able to push in a new bushing for you, or you can probably buy the entire lower control arm, complete with bushes.
    • Could you not use "thermal" spacers to give the clearance, like the ones I used between the blower and head? That raised the manifold height by around 10-15mm Albeit the ones I used were for cathedral ports, but I assume they have similar for rectangular ports????
    • Thanks Paul I reached out to Autotainment but they no longer work on JDM cars as the guy who used to do the work moved on and is no longer doing that kind of work. I am talking with Level Up Audio though.
×
×
  • Create New...