Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Thought about a gearbox yet?

That will be next on the "to do" list.

what box are you going with paul? Have you made a decision yet? As for those 262 dur. 11.3mm lift. Cams thats some crazy lift and would be quite interested to see some results.

what box are you going with paul? Have you made a decision yet? As for those 262 dur. 11.3mm lift. Cams thats some crazy lift and would be quite interested to see some results.

OS88 sequential box mate ;)

They're an Alfa Romeo NA lobe which uses a 32 mm base circle (stock lifters). Camtech grind them up.

I'll get the specs one day and post them up. But what we wanted was short duration and biggish lift with an agro ramp rate. HKS step 2 springs wernt enough to keep the bucket on the lobe with anything more than 19 psi and 5700 rpm iirc.

After spinning up a JUN 264 at 10.5 and Tomei 270 at 10.25, Yavuz located this lobe and used it.

There is another set. 262 at 11.3 iirc, once again with an agro rate.

I'll get the finer details next time I'm out there (if he is ok with making the info public).

I asked them camshaft spec card and they never replied to my request so I lost interest in unigroup's cam.

Thought about a gearbox yet?

That will be next on the "to do" list.

open, rebuilt, cryo-treat the stuff and seal it back. I thought about a gearset, but they are too expensive for something that could brake just as quickly as the oem thing. ANyways we're drifint away from the interesting subject we had before!

Piss the standard ignitor off (it's an electrical bottle neck), new coil pack loom and new coils. Guys reinvent the wheel for no need with this shit.

i have 10k new oem coil, with 10k new loom and new HPI6 ( haltech) ignitor.. still if the ls2 offer better spark than i guess it could make a difference.. Anyways, let's stay on track guys! :)

People make 500kw+ all day every day with splitfires or oem nissan coilpacks. Why waste money on ls2 coils? Better off spending that coin else where. Like ths quaffie frond lsd rather than the nismo you mentioned earlier if I remember correctly.

  • Like 1

They're busy a lot of the time

Haha, your such a nice bloke Joey, these blokes do not give a F , and they seem to be all the same and once they get the job/car they will just do it when it suites them :)

Maybe I am a Cynic, but getting an answer from these blokes is like pulling teeth :(

Haha, your such a nice bloke Joey, these blokes do not give a F , and they seem to be all the same and once they get the job/car they will just do it when it suites them :)

Maybe I am a Cynic, but getting an answer from these blokes is like pulling teeth :(

And from what you've said, your workshop ain't too much different :P
  • Like 1
  • 1 year later...

So my motor finally let go with the Grex (Trust) drop in cams (never knew if they were 256 or 264), the RB26 makes 740hp at the hubs at 2bar of boost with a Precision 6262. As I don't have dial in specs for them I decided now was as good a time as any to buy some Tomei Poncam Type R to search for some lower end power. These arrived on friday and gave me some motorvation to start stripping my current spare motor on Sunday... To my luck I pulled out the cams and measured them, found they were a little too big for stockers so googled the stamped number on them, turns out they are Tomei Poncam Type B.

So now I have 3 sets of drop in cams

  • Grex 256 and or 264 9.1mm
  • Tomei Type B 260 9.1mm
  • Tomei Type R 250 9.1mm

Decisions.... hmmmm

What let go, Simon? And pics of the carnage?

Went down to the drags because I had a small rear main seal leak and figured I'd lunch a gearbox so kill 2 birds at once. It didn't feel 100% on first pass (went 10.8 @ 135mph so was definitely down on power) and then the motor felt a little rough on the way back to pits. Checked logs and bosst was down 3-4psi, played with the boost control settings in Vipec and started back up to a small tick. Shut down straight away, rang my mate who helps with the car and by the time he wandered back (a few min) it had cooled down a bit more. Started back up to very big knock and shut down straight away again. It's either a bad big end or a rod bolt has let go. Motor is still in the car but will come out soon hopefully, it lasted about 6000kms of basically track only use for 3 years so can't be disappointed with that. I've been savage on it the last few months holding 4th gear until 9000rpm running 2bar down the back straight at Barbagallo so I've got a fair idea why it has cried enough haha

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Boot is going to be replaced eventually. I just wire brushed what I could and rust converted. Then painted in rust kill primer. the spoiler also got repainted and plugs replaced on the ends. The under side of the bonnet is going to be black also, currently white. But red on the top side, same colour code as the silo to begin.
    • Hi guys, has anyone either purchased or built themselves a rotisserie for their car before? I can only just justify the need for one hence why I should just make one but at the same time, if I make one I can kiss another 4 weeks of potentially productive car working time goodbye because I'm building a bloody rotisserie....  I mainly want it for the application of the body deadener.  Cleaning the old stuff off, priming and then colour over the deadener doesn't worry me, it's just the application using the Schutz Gun that I feel would achieve a significantly better finish painting it side on and keeping the Schutz Gun upright.  I don't think they would work well on the side let alone almost upside down for some areas.  If the product I use (Terosun, etc) could work through a HVLP ok then it might be ok to apply without the rotisserie.   I can get one of these style ones for about $1200 which is pretty good value-     I reckon if I made one it would cost around $500 but it's more the time that it would take is more of a killer than the cost.  They look to hold their value pretty well second hand so I could always sell it after using it and realistically only lose $200-$300 at worst.  Or keep it and buy another project when this one finally sees the light of day... Anyone selling one...? Cheers!  
    • While it is a very nice idea to put card style AFMs into the charge pipe (post intercooler, obviously), the position of the AFM and the recirc valve relative to each other starts to become something that you really have to consider. The situation: The stock AFM is located upstream the turbo, and the recirc valve return is located between the AFM and the turbo inlet, aimed at the turbo inlet, so that it flows away from and not through the AFM. Thus, once metered air is not metered again, neither flowing forwards, or backwards, when vented out of the charge pipe. When you put the AFM between the turbo outlet and the TB, there is a volume of pressurised charge pipe upstream of the AFM and there is a volume of pressurised pipe downstream of the AFM. When the recirc valve opens and vents the charge pipe, air is going to flow from both ends of the charge pipe towards the recirc valve. If the recirc valve is in the stock location, then the section between it and the TB doesn't really matter here - you're not going to try to put the AFM in that piece of pipe. But the AFM will likely be somewhere between the intercooler and the recirc valve, So the entire charge pipe volume from that position (upstream of the AFM, back through the intercooler, to the turbo outlet) is going to flow through the AFM, get registered as combustion air, cause the ECU to fuel for it, but get dumped out of the recirc valve and you will end up with a typical BOV related rich spike. So ideally you want to put the AFM as close to the TB as possible (so, just upstream of the crossover pipe, assuming that the stock crossover is still in use, or, just before the TB if an FFP is being used) and locate the recirc valve at the turbo outlet. Recirc valve at the turbo outlet is the new normal for things like EFRs anyway. In the even of a recirc valve opening dumping all the air in the charge pipe, pretty much all of it is going to go backwards, from the TB to the recirc valve near the turbo outlet. But only a small portion of it (that between the TB and the AFM) will pass through the AFM, and it will pass through going backwards. The card style AFMs are somewhat more immune to reading flow that passes through them in reverse than older AFMs are, so you should absolutely minimise the rich pulse behaviour associated with the unavoidable outcome of having both a recirc valve and an AFM in the charge pipe.
    • Yep, in my case as soon as I started hearing weird noises I backed off the tension until it sounded normal again. Delicate balance between enough tension to avoid that cold start slip and too much damaging things.
×
×
  • Create New...