Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys,

I've recently installed a top mount turbo kit I purchased off eBay a while ago (2nd hand).

Since I've installed the kit I have no boost, it's an oil feed only turbo with a 46mm external wastegate, I've plugged the water lines up and doesn't leak.

I've put the manual boost controller between the turbo and side nipple on the wastegate.

I have the fitting on the top of the wastegate venting to atmosphere and just plugged up the vacuum port that goes to inlet manifold.

I've unplugged the boost solinoid and taken it out (plug just sitting there)

I was set to believe the setup was running 19 psi, I have the stock ecu in at the moment till I can get the apexi. Wastegate spring too high?

The boost gauge is not boosting past 0

Beside all that I have touched anything else :/

Any help would be good.

It's got nothing. I gave it a boot full and still no turbo, I checked the intercooler piping 2wice before starting up :/

Could it be the standard solenoid as I have just unplugged it?

Also because the wastegate is set to 19psi?

When I give it a good revving and back it off the wastegate isn't doing anything.

Well, it would have to be opened a fair way to not allow any boost so I don't think it's your problem. Is it vented to atmosphere? If it is it is (!) heaps obvious if it is open a little or a lot. (Most if it and is in sentence!)

In this order are my guesses.

Dead or dud turbo

Boost leak.

Edited by Ben C34
  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • IMG_8641.mov     She doesn’t sound the best but starts with out using any gas now. I just ran some injector cleaner through her. started roughly the first time after adding it but gave it the beans slowly upto 4k, Must have cleaned a few cobwebs out. another step in the right direction for the sub
    • Sadly I can confirm if you are actually seeking to drift, you will quite easily spin up one wheel. Even if you're going in a straight line. I am not entirely sure of the metrics/terminology here but there's only a certain amount that the helical will actually spin both wheels. I've seen it on video with my own car where two lines of smoke switch over to just one after you really get in to it. Unlike with a clutch diff where you can keep your foot planted until the car regains grip, in my experience with the helical you want to be utilizing traction control allowing LIMITED slip or lifting (partially) when you start to spin up both tyres with a Nissan helical. Which makes them pretty sub optimal for drifting duty. That said... this is probably a helical on numbers alone. Just put the Kazz in
    • Let's just fix the problem by f**king the rest of the gearbox.
    • Unlikely, as per Greg's post. This is not helical diff behaviour unless one wheel is up off the ground. Shimming what? You don't "shim" a mechanical LSD. Probably not in the sense that you have heard of people "shimming" a diff. And the process that Nissan f**kwits call "shimming" a diff involves super-preloading a VLSD cartridge against the side of the diff to create a friction/wear point (in a place that it wasn't supposed to have one) to make the sloppy, useless, viscous diff into a hybrid viscous/mech abortion. In case it isn't clear, I consider the process to be stupid. Nike.
    • How much does the shifter move when the car is in gear with the engine off? If it is more than about 1cm you need to replace your shifter bush. Your shifts will just get crunchier, not faster, with a short shifter unless you also rebuild the whole box
×
×
  • Create New...