Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Yer you guys were right, i got my wires crossed with a game of someone told someone else who got it back to me.

I need to put in a temp sensor... i didnt have time this time but will and get the tune done again. for now the tune goes on/

thanks for the help guys and i do apologise for taking up your time!

Yer you guys were right, i got my wires crossed with a game of someone told someone else who got it back to me.

I need to put in a temp sensor... i didnt have time this time but will and get the tune done again. for now the tune goes on/

thanks for the help guys and i do apologise for taking up your time!

Tuning a map based ecu without a temp sensor is silly and I am surprised that your tuner would even do it.

only needs to last one weekend, this weekend, then its back for the snesor and tune again

problem... on a dyno the ambient air is cool and your runs are not back to back... on the track the ambient air isn't cool and you're on/off the throttle.. this means your IAT could go from 20 to 50 degrees and back down to 25 for example..

a big no no...

however if your tuner is switched on (which I hope so) he/she will tune the car not on it's limits so when it does get hot it the motor won't have a spaz attack and knock off its tits.. it will just run extremely rich.

Ideally, as IAT increase timing decreases as well as fuel.. and as IAT decreases, fuel increases and timing is brought back to what it has been dialled as on the dyno... if you want you could add more timing as the IAT gets even cooler

Well let's say if the charged air going into the motor is 25 degrees Celsius and the motor will happily take 14 degrees of timing, and for each 1 degree of timing the power increase is exponentially decaying in growth then you would assume the motor is near max torque/power for that given load point & rpm.

However say when the intake charge temp is now 45 degrees Celsius due to heat soak and ambient air temp.. the motor now perhaps could only take 11 degrees of timing for that given load point and rpm for that temperature... the 4 degrees lacking is compensated in the intake air temp ignition trim table..

So now say if you're not running one.. regardless of the intake air temp.. once the motor hits that load point & rpm it will just ignite the fuel at 14 degrees before top dead centre.. and yes it would very unhappy.

Not to mention the car would be pig rich.. oxygen density is lower at that temperature and the same amount of fuel is injected resulting in a pretty rich burn.

Hope that makes sense?

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • It's kind of interesting - They definitely do builds that split the difference between what they like and what will generate views and engagement. The NC Platform always surprises everyone in a good way, in an uncomfortably good way some may say. They could throw a LS in there and arguably have the best (and best performing) car of the entire stable. But that isn't necessarily what draws views, because people viewing don't want to accept the vegetables of a LS NC MX5 being a superior vehicle in every way (including fun) than a RB26 240Z. This is also why there's not a lot of content about the GR Yaris (on the web in general). They're too good, yet 'only a Yaris' The community doesn't want certain cars to be as good as they are - to beat their hero cars, and I believe the NC MX5 is absolutely one of those cars.
    • Yeah - My key still does the chime thing. I followed the procedure but it didn't activate on the (identical) third set of keyfob that I had. I vaguely remember the alarm saying you can only pair two keys with it. Now that I've dug it up, it appears that you very much can pair keyfobs to the alarm system. (which are the fobs I use to unlock the car). I have successfully diverted the thread and can probably not use the OEM keyfob ever again unless I use the aftermarket alarm and attempt to pair the OEM keyfob to it. Which might just work, or not :D. I definitely used the nissan method and not the aftermarket alarm method.
    • What makes it worse is that Nissan made keys in the same style, for example R34 and Stagea, but they work at different frequencies or something like that. So they look the same but the remotes are not interchangeable. I learned that from some guy selling aftermarket blank keys.
    • Does your door chime work when you have the key in the lock and open the door? I've had that disabled because it's f**king annoying and it is one thing that messes with the pairing. Because now the car doesn't detect key in ignition anymore and the slide-key-in-and-out sequence does not trigger the pairing mode anymore. The service manual has a section on the various bits involved in doing the syncing. I presume it'll be similar between Stagea and R34.
    • Agree, but meh, I think is is based more on LOLS than actually apples to apples, like, who would have thunk a turbo 4 cylinder would not beat a NA 4 cylinder  I think with just basic N/A mods, like a exhaust and tune, it would be equal to the Mini in its current form, maybe I know my current 2.5 would "chop the mini" as the midrange now has a night and day difference in power delivery compared to the tuned 2.0, by around 20kwatw and 30nm from around 2k rpm "ish"....... I'm kinda hoping that they do a N/A build, either with the MZR 2.0 or with whatever they decide to use If I recall correctly they did talk about K swapping one a while ago
×
×
  • Create New...