Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey everybody, I have a garrett 3076 external wastegate version ( not sure on the a/r) and was wondering where I can purchase a different rear housing? Im wanting to go to a internal wastegate.. I've heard this is possible, please correct me if I'm wrong. Bit of a noob when it comes to turbos.

Thanks for any help in advance.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/449525-replace-rear-housing/
Share on other sites

We can machine you a IWG .82 rear housing that has a 6 bolt Nissan pattern on the rear, with actuator with bracket supplied, plus the exhaust manifold spacer. In total you will be looking to spend $600.

I should probably give a bit more info.

I recently purchased a GTT which came with a - but not installed - HKS 3037 external wastegate version (56 trim?). Which apparently is exactly the same as a Garrett 3076R. Also got a Trust exhaust manifold for an external gate setup.

So far from the research I've done, it would be simpler and cheaper just to stay with an internal gate system, which is the reason for my original question.

Or would I be better off going the external gate route.?

Yes I realize what I have already been told. But about which route I should take is where I'm not sure on. I've read that an internal gate can be restrictive on how much boost can be run and that a .82 internal gate housing will spool slower than if it was an external gate setup instead.. Is this true? Im looking for a fun street use setup that will go well on the track aswell. And money isnt the biggest issue.

hks 3037 had the cropped turbine wheel iirc

so a standard gt30 rear end won't work

So using Bens rear housing won't work, I take it this won't work either?

http://www.sonicperformance.com.au/771300-GT30/Garrett-GT30-T3-Internal-Gate-Turbine-Housing/pd.php

Would the hypergear one work or would I better off just using what I have and going the external gate route?

So using Bens rear housing won't work, I take it this won't work either?

http://www.sonicperformance.com.au/771300-GT30/Garrett-GT30-T3-Internal-Gate-Turbine-Housing/pd.php

Would the hypergear one work or would I better off just using what I have and going the external gate route?

That's what I have.

Hypergear should be able to machine a hkusing to suit your turbo.

Okay so I'll keep that in mind that I'll be looking at about $600 for an internal gate rear housing.

Now, what I'd also like to know, seeing as I already have the manifold for it, what are the pros and cons of internal vs external gate in this particular set up? Besides the fact I'll need to buy an external gate and the fab work.
Can one handle more boost than the other? Or is one laggier than the other?

Sell hks turbo complete buy bens gt3076r. Hks gt3037 has a cropped exhaust wheel as stated above. Same as the gt2835.

That's genius!

If you were considering a housing for 600 a whole turbo for 1250 makes sense. Approx 500o k's use and includes dump pipe.

I was seriously considering it but im going a high mount ext gate as I think itll match the plazmaman plenum better I think. But op should def buy and sell the hks. Wont lose money as the hks 3037's still get $1000+ mark.

No, they are just saying that the HKS turbos used a cropped wheel. So the 2835 is a cropped 3071, the 3037 i believe is a cropped 3076

HKS 3037 and 2835 are two completely different turbos, the 3037 will deliver more power with more lag.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I was poking through the R34 wiring diagrams vs R33 and noticed that the R34 has proper headlight relays while the R33 is like the R32 and sends full headlight power through the headlight switch. I'm not afraid of wiring but I really would like to do this in a way that looks OEM (clipping into open positions on the OEM relay box) and also unlike the factory wiring which interlocks the high beam and low beam on the halogen series 1 GTR headlights I want to make it such that turning on the high beams keeps the low beams on as well. Any advice on how to locate the specific connectors + crimp terminals + relays I need? I was thinking one NO relay for low beams and another for combined high + low running off the factory high beam headlight connector. I don't really want to splice into a crusty old probably discontinued factory harness so fully reversible is my goal here.
    • Pretty sure they run the same engine as the Q50 hybrid which specifies 95 RON.  I ran 98 in mine for a while, but it made no difference in performance or economy, so I have been using 95 for the last few years.  I have never hit 6.0L/100km, but have returned mid to high 6 on the highway.  Being a hybrid, fuel economy is a lot more dependant on how you drive it.  At 110km/h, mine never goes into EV mode on the highway, so returns closer to 7.5L/100. urban driving can return low 8s if you are careful or over 10 if you are a bit more enthusiastic on the throttle.
    • About a quarter of what you want to do. It's only R7R, not R&dismantle&replaceparts&reassemble&R. ? It is stock. I already told you, you will NOT have broken those. It's f**king 4th gear for Christ's sake. You just chipped the teeth off.
    • *waits* for chop idle videos and TT kit hanging off the motor. I like these sounds now, my inner bogan is growing.    
    • Want to buy a good running Rb20det in Sydney preferably complete or long block 
×
×
  • Create New...