Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys,

I've got an issue with my RB20DET.

When I let it rev out with the throttle only just open, (so no where near boost) around 4500- 5000rpm I am getting a clicking noise that dead set sounds like the engine fan hitting something.

The fan has around 3mm of clearance with the harmonic balancer, assumed this would be ok as the fan flex's forward when pulling air through yes?

Radial clearance to the shroud is fine, as I'm using a SR fan (they are smaller).

The noise I think is still there under full throttle, i just can't hear it.

Dont think the noise was there before I did the mods (highflow, nistune, profec b) and had it tuned.

Im running a profec b boost controller, found one thread talking about the solenoid clicking, but if I'm on low throttle % and not on boost the solenoid shouldnt be working? Will unplug on way home today to rule it out.

Its probably due for a timing belt in 10 000 km, although doubt anything in there could make that noise. Maybe?

So before I pull the fan off to rule it out, any other ideas?

Cheers

All sorts of stuff at the front of the engine could make noise. Water pump or alternator bearings. Any of the belts. Even the air-con solenoid pulling in. If it were the fan blades hitting anything at high rpm, I wouldn't expect a clicking noise so much as a continuous high pitched noise or chatter at the very least. I wore a hole through my fan shroud without ever noticing any noise. The Profec's solenoid will be completely inaudible when working (against the background noise).

Thanks for the reply,

Think i'll just bring the timing belt change forward and have a good look around,

Oh and its only when the thottle is open, if I let the revs fall from high rpm there is no noise. Doesnt really do it in 1st gear. Noticeable in 2nd and 3rd.

No air con fitted.

Will have a closer look on the weekend.

So, found the issue.

Pulled the fan shround off, some light evidence of the fan contacting the bottom of the shroud.

Put it back together and measured, and there is 12mm clearance from fan to shroud at the bottom, must be a combination of fan flexing and engine moving around, seriously thought that would be enough room, but guess not.

Ran with no shroud for the moment and noise is gone, car ran cooler too, but it is mainly freeway driving.

Will mod the shroud before I put it back on.

Here was I thinking my RB20 had some serious issue, haha should have known better.

Does the engine really flap around? I would have thought that to be plenty of clearance. maybe take a look at your engine mounts next time your under there.

The GTR I recently pulled an engine out of had no symptoms whatsoever of dead mounts. but one was completely sheared in 2 pieces...

The engine certainly does move around a bit, and more to the point, when the fan is spinning fast it can make the shroud move around a fair bit too. If the radiator mouts are loose the radiator can move towards the engine by 7-8mm! In my car I have jammed some vacuum hose in around the upper radiator pins to hold it more firmly, because the original rubbers allow a bit too much movement.

The radiator is mounted pretty tight, I made my own bushes out of a nylon material.

The shroud is bolted at the top and cable tied (firmly) at the bottom, tbh I can't see that pulling back but its a possibility.

Engine mounts are good.

Also, the wear marks on the shroud are from the front of the fan, not side to side like engine mounts would suggest,

Anyways, I'll will just trim the shroud a bit more, should be ok.

Glad its not anything worse, going in for a touch up tune soon, dont want to hold that up.

If it were me (and yes I know it might just be me), I'd want to find out where the movement is and fix it. You may mask the shroud hitting now, and thats all well and good, but the movement may cause a serious problem later on down the track. If its getting dyno tuned I would look at it on the dyno

As above, I had my exhaust side engine mount split in two, never realised this till I pulled the engine out and half the engine mount remained in the car. As far as I was concerned, everything was good

Yeah, when I give it a service before the dyno I'll confirm the engine mounts are good.

I think the issue is i'm using a sr fan where a rb one should be, and I have a 50mm radiator, so things are not fitting like the factory intended.

Im going to try and measure the fan deflection too, just to confirm how much its moving forward.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • A few more recent pics
    • full send the cnut, do this   fark the wrapping and/or stick on siet. These guys are the ones to go to: https://www.realthermo.com.au/  
    • Just had a look, they don't. Fuelling on the base map is purely alpha-N, and the ignition table is MAP. Remember it's just a base map to get the car moving  
    • Hi everyone, I’m Dave from Canberra. Here's a few pics of my 1992 R32 GTST coupe which I imported back in 2006. Only mods so far are HKS Hi-power cat back exhaust, K&N filter, ATC Volanti steering wheel, Pioneer stereo, amp and sub. This was my daily driver up until 2015 and sadly hasn’t been driven at all in the last 5 years due to marriage, work, and kids taking up most of my time and spare cash.As such its in need of a bit of TLC and one of my goals for this year is to get it back to running condition and maybe look into club/historic rego. I’ve joined SAU so I can ask a few questions along the way (although I promise to google Current Problem +SAU beforehand!)
    • From talking to the mx5 guys the NC doesn't actually need bonnet vents like the earlier NA and NB models, due to a better designed cooling system and undertray design There's plenty of them used as street cars and weekend track toys running anywhere from around 170 to 250kw with stock non vented bonnets, I initially was going to get some bonnet vents, but, as they are not actually required, I'll put vents on hold for a while and just monitor temps, though I do need to get something to actually monitor engine oil temps though, coolant temp can be pulled from the OBD2, but the oil gauge in the car is not actual oil temp, it is only a calculation based off coolant temp and RPM ☹️ They do recommend upgrading the radiator, which I have already done with a triple pass, and the only other thing they recommend for a street car is heat management, like I talked about above to protect bits in the engine bay from radiant heat, and to either replace the nearly 20 year old plastic coolant expansion tank, which I have done, or get a aftermarket alloy jobbie for some bling They did also say that if I wanted to track the car on occasion a oil cooler and sump baffle would be required, and as I already have had a sump baffle installed when the engine was out......... I'm going to get a oil cooler with a thermostat....... just in case I do eventually track the car, but probably not, but still maybe...🤪
×
×
  • Create New...