Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys

How can i keep my stock dual tips but still be able to modify something to gain maximum gains or flow from it as well improving the RB note by not too much to attract negative attention but still an improvement over dead stock sound.

Stock looking is clean IMO :)

The rear muffler is massive and likely restrictive. Better option would be buy a similar but good rear muffler and use that.

Of course you could get the centre muffler removed and see how that goes, but your car won't go hard untill you get a decent turbo and exhaust.

Better option don't bother.

This is easy. Cut stock twin tips off of existing rear muffler. Weld them onto new twin tip rear muffler as part of complete exhaust replacement. Make new exhaust 3" with big centre muffler and big rear. Add 4" bodied 200 cell cat* and full length dump+front pipe.

* 200 cell 4" cat recommended so as to not get too illegal and loud. 5" bodied 100 cell cat for maximum fasts.

Possible, but very minor gains if any. You can replace the dump/front pipe with a 3" design, I favour the bellmouth as it gives plenty of space for post-turbo air to sort itself out. A higher flowing 200cpi cat is worthwhile too. However, the rest of the piping is 2.5" and has restrictive mufflers in it, this is good for quietness but not good for power.

You are best off talking to an exhaust shop to make something that looks factory (twin tips if you wish) and flows better than standard that isn't too loud.

I had a stainless 3" exhaust from turbo back made up with twin outlets. Cost just over a grand, and gave good gains on stock turbo (~185rwkW, pod, exhaust, nistune) while staying fairly quiet. One of the best mods bang for buck I've done.

  • Like 1

mild steel 3.5 inch turbo back with a single hooker mufler and de cat

I loved the sound mine made, soudned better than 90% of music on the radio too so i saved money not needed a sound system, woudlent be able to hear it anyway :)

mild steel 3.5 inch turbo back with a single hooker mufler and de cat

I loved the sound mine made, soudned better than 90% of music on the radio too so i saved money not needed a sound system, woudlent be able to hear it anyway :)

You wouldn't last 5 minutes down in Melbourne. Haha.

The 3.5 inch Hooker mufflers have a 3 inch restrictor inside them, may as well go for a Chinese 3.5 inch muffler, it will flow better and probably be quieter.

Has anyone tried a Dynomax VT? The flap blocks off like a Varex, but opens on exhaust pressure. I assume it will make the setup a little laggy but it intrigues me a little. Decently priced at $150 odd too. Could make a good mid muffler if it isn't too restrictive when closed.

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/191330618237?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649

You wouldn't last 5 minutes down in Melbourne. Haha.

The 3.5 inch Hooker mufflers have a 3 inch restrictor inside them, may as well go for a Chinese 3.5 inch muffler, it will flow better and probably be quieter.

Really? http://www.tuffcarparts.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=268

i know i put a 3 inch tip on it so it didnet look to big out the back but im sureits 3.5"inside

Shoudlent be much of a restirction with 340 od KW

Still, a better exhaust is on my list of things

I made 20-30 kw when I shoved the 3.5 Varex on the back, ditching the Hooker, but I did get rid of a few bends at the same time. It has a restrictor inside to accelerate the gasses, as part of it's chamber design.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Could someone post some pictures of the factory Jack , tools, spare tire and how they were in a 1998 ER34 2 door skyline originally?
    • UPDATE: Hi all!  As we are getting towards the end of this thread where I’ll showcase final dyno numbers and graph, I wanted to provide an update. Tao from HyperGear has done an amazing job building the custom divided T3 housing for the G30. Communication was flawless, price was great, and now the housing is estimated to arrive in 7-10 days! Very very pleased. I must add, if someone is looking for an affordable turbo and end up reading this thread, I would recommend HyperGear. Genuine brands are the way to go as their proven reliability, predictable performance, and there’s a plethora of information available for specs, flow, and more. This HyperGear recommendation is based on their excellent communication, dedication, and willingness to listen to their customers. I particularly liked their ability to create custom adaptations tailored to specific needs, which is a HUGE benefit over other brands. And if we consider the HyperGear provided dyno results, it adds reassurance knowing their turbos can compete against genuine brands. Next update will be after the dyno!  
    • I've previously seen people post up "dress up bolt kits" for RBs but don't remember seeing them specify the full contents. I can only really suggest you grab the verniers and start measuring, and keep in mind the cam cover and timing cover bolts are both quite specific with a wider unthreaded section where the bushes sit, that will make it hard to get aftermarket replacements which tend to be all thread (set screws) or for longer bolts a flat section with a shorter threaded section at the end
    • I believe there was a similar one posted by @duggyphresh. They were re-routing their battery positive cable in the way I am also trying to achieve. Sorry, I’m new to this forum, so was a bit late to the party by a few months and so reignited the old thread, as I wanted to know how they got on with doing it.
    • Wasn't there a thread on this very subject just a few weeks ago?
×
×
  • Create New...