Jump to content
SAU Community

Outer Tie Rod End Stuck?

theDETlife
 Share

Recommended Posts

theDETlife Contributor

theDETlife

Posted
Posted

Hi,

Im doing a 5 stud conversion including 4 pots on the front and 2 pots on the rear.
I can't get the outer tie rod end off the knuckle (se pic). I've tried bashing it with a muttlet and using a gear puller to get it off, heating it up and it won't budge.
Any idea's how to get it off with out using a tie rod removal tool.
Keep in mind this is the rear outer tie rod end out of the hicas lock bar on a r32 gts.

And i understand that the tie rod setup is a little different than the classic tie rod end thread thru the knuckle with the castle nut holding the two together.

pic of the 5 stud hub with out rod and old 4 stud hub with rod end still attached.

Cheers! :action-smiley-069::action-smiley-069::action-smiley-069:

post-134814-0-70213600-1413414093_thumb.jpg

post-134814-0-75554900-1413414106_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/449741-outer-tie-rod-end-stuck/
Share on other sites
GTSBoy Grand Master

GTSBoy

Posted
Posted

The female side of the taper is an insert into the end of the steering arm off the hub. If/when you convert to non-HICAS subframe you have to press the insert out so that the conventional bush used on the end of the non-HICAS toe control rods can be pressed in.

By this I mean to give you the idea that you could look at pressing everything out of the steering arm end without actually first splitting the tie rod end out of it. It might be possible, or it might be impossible. Given that I suspect that the insert comes out the other side of the steering arm end, it probably can;t come apart without splitting the joint anyway. Also, I guess you're doing it on the car, which will probably make it impossible. When I pressed mine out the whole back end was out of the car and in pieces all over the shed floor. So taking a hub over to the press was no problem.

Otherwise, your question involving "how to get it off with out using a tie rod removal tool" would tend to revert to advice to use a ball joint splitter and a couple of hammers, same as I usually advise people.

hardsteppa Grand Master

hardsteppa

Posted
Posted

Is there any reason you don't want to use a tierod remover? I mean, that's what they're for, and i just went and bought one when i removed the bit you're trying to. It wasn't coming off otherwise.

warps Mentor

warps

Posted
Posted (edited)

It works even better if you hit both sides of the knuckle simultaneously. I've only had one rod end I couldn't get apart this way, and that had to be cut off with a cutting disc, then the taper stub pressed out with a 30 Tonne shop press. Nasty.

Edited by warps
GTSBoy Grand Master

GTSBoy

Posted
Posted

4lb hammer or mallet held up against the back side. Sharp blow with a hammer or a more gentle blow with another 4lb on the front side is the aim.

The mallet held up against the back is a dead load which rebounds back onto the joint after the front strike, helping to deform the taper enough to make it let go. As I have always said, it helps also to have a ball joint splitter on there to provide some load axially along the joint so that it will pop out if the taper releases. There's no point having the taper release if it's just going to grab hold again!

And by ball joint splitter I don't mean a pickle fork.

hardsteppa Grand Master

hardsteppa

Posted
Posted

"by ball joint splitter I don't mean a pickle fork"

I did...cause they're cheap as sh&t and work just fine, as long as you don't have weak bony girl arms and have the strength to hammer the joint apart.

jiffo Mentor

jiffo

Posted
Posted

4lb hammer or mallet held up against the back side. Sharp blow with a hammer or a more gentle blow with another 4lb on the front side is the aim.

The mallet held up against the back is a dead load which rebounds back onto the joint after the front strike, helping to deform the taper enough to make it let go. As I have always said, it helps also to have a ball joint splitter on there to provide some load axially along the joint so that it will pop out if the taper releases. There's no point having the taper release if it's just going to grab hold again!

And by ball joint splitter I don't mean a pickle fork.

Not big enough gear.

Use a 14lb sledge hammer on the back to absorb the shock.

Then your 4lb (min) to do the hit.

One good hit will work better than dozens of girly taps.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Watermouse
      Drive By Wire Conversion options

      By Watermouse · Posted

      I recently got their dbw 74mm throttle body and pedal kit. It is sensational quality especially the wiring harnesses. Unfortunately I can’t answer u about the fitment to stock inlet manifold as I’m going Rahjab Racing forward plenum. Only one thing to be careful of is understand u have to pay gst and import fees if your purchase is over $1,000 in one shipment.
    • pogman
      George's R33 GTST build

      By pogman · Posted

      yeah i agree paint match stops it from standing out so much, oh that's actually really good to know i was wondering if it would help with air flow now actually having an outlet in the bonnet. Will have to focus on ducting into and out of the radiator now to make the most of it.
    • The Bogan
      George's R33 GTST build

      By The Bogan · Posted

      I would paint match the whole thing to avoid unwanted attention  I had a similar bonnet, paint matched, on my old R33 GTST, but mine was a fibreglass jobbie made by Blitz in QLD, they work extremely well for radiator efficiency and under bonnet temps
    • shortyboy
      Drive By Wire Conversion options

      By shortyboy · Posted

      Does anyone run this kit with factory plenum? Does the adapter and bosch tb fit under factory strut brace? I wanted to get this setup before going forward facing manifold. Thanks
    • pogman
      George's R33 GTST build

      By pogman · Posted

      small update time, after always wanting a "cool" looking bonnet for my car and always struggling to find one for the series 2 that i liked and wasn't an insane amount of money. Saw one i liked on RHDjapan from D-speed in Japan the price was very good for a carbon bonnet so good infact i was a little unsure how much i trusted it, decided to bite the bullet and with the help of jesse streeter in not long at all it was at my door. Once it was delivered i ran in from work and quickly unboxed it and to my surprise the quality was actually pretty good i quickly removed the old bonnet and placed on the new one to test it out and even the fitment wasnt too bad at all. Then decided to paint the little grille in the bonnet black to stop it sticking out so much.   I decided to not mess around with the hood latch and just install some aero catch hood pins, having never installed them before did some YouTube university classes and i was good to go. fair to say it is not a fun job at all from making brackets so the pins sit nicely and actually cutting through the bonnet but also being very scared of cutting the holes too big it took wayyyy longer than i would like to admit but finally got it there. Then it was time for a quick test drive to ensure the latches actually worked and thankfully the bonnet looked very stable. I still think paint matching the bonnet and leaving just the part that sticks up as carbon would help make it all look alot neater as im not sure how i feel about all that carbon on a very fridge white car but will leave it as is and see how i feel with time.  
×
×
  • Create New...