Outer Tie Rod End Stuck?

[theDETlife]

Hi,

Im doing a 5 stud conversion including 4 pots on the front and 2 pots on the rear.
I can't get the outer tie rod end off the knuckle (se pic). I've tried bashing it with a muttlet and using a gear puller to get it off, heating it up and it won't budge.
Any idea's how to get it off with out using a tie rod removal tool.
Keep in mind this is the rear outer tie rod end out of the hicas lock bar on a r32 gts.

And i understand that the tie rod setup is a little different than the classic tie rod end thread thru the knuckle with the castle nut holding the two together.

pic of the 5 stud hub with out rod and old 4 stud hub with rod end still attached.

Cheers!

[GTSBoy]

The female side of the taper is an insert into the end of the steering arm off the hub. If/when you convert to non-HICAS subframe you have to press the insert out so that the conventional bush used on the end of the non-HICAS toe control rods can be pressed in.

By this I mean to give you the idea that you could look at pressing everything out of the steering arm end without actually first splitting the tie rod end out of it. It might be possible, or it might be impossible. Given that I suspect that the insert comes out the other side of the steering arm end, it probably can;t come apart without splitting the joint anyway. Also, I guess you're doing it on the car, which will probably make it impossible. When I pressed mine out the whole back end was out of the car and in pieces all over the shed floor. So taking a hub over to the press was no problem.

Otherwise, your question involving "how to get it off with out using a tie rod removal tool" would tend to revert to advice to use a ball joint splitter and a couple of hammers, same as I usually advise people.

[hardsteppa]

Is there any reason you don't want to use a tierod remover? I mean, that's what they're for, and i just went and bought one when i removed the bit you're trying to. It wasn't coming off otherwise.

[Hadouken]

I do it by hitting the side of knuckle with a hammer. Not bashing. Hit about 4 times and it usually breaks the seal and slips right off.

If it is stuck like any typical import then get what hardsteppa said.

[theDETlife]

cheers fellas,

i'll give it a few more whack's and see what happens and if that fails fork out for another tool i guess.

[warps]

It works even better if you hit both sides of the knuckle simultaneously. I've only had one rod end I couldn't get apart this way, and that had to be cut off with a cutting disc, then the taper stub pressed out with a 30 Tonne shop press. Nasty.

Edited October 17, 2014 by warps

[Ben C34]

Get a mate to help you beat it off.

[Hadouken]

Actually just thought of something. Are you using a mallet or a hammer? I find hammer is better. Provides more of a shock

[Ben C34]

2 dudes beating it side by side is enough of a shock?

[GTSBoy]

4lb hammer or mallet held up against the back side. Sharp blow with a hammer or a more gentle blow with another 4lb on the front side is the aim.

The mallet held up against the back is a dead load which rebounds back onto the joint after the front strike, helping to deform the taper enough to make it let go. As I have always said, it helps also to have a ball joint splitter on there to provide some load axially along the joint so that it will pop out if the taper releases. There's no point having the taper release if it's just going to grab hold again!

And by ball joint splitter I don't mean a pickle fork.

[Hadouken]

I think it would be quite shocked with 2 dudes banging it

[hardsteppa]

"by ball joint splitter I don't mean a pickle fork"

I did...cause they're cheap as sh&t and work just fine, as long as you don't have weak bony girl arms and have the strength to hammer the joint apart.

[GTSBoy]

Yeah, I know they work, but they're a bit rough. Easy to tear rubber boots and stuff with them, and you're not always separating the joint to replace with a new one. Sometime it's disassembly because you need to but going to put it back together with the same parts.

[hardsteppa]

Thats true, fair point.

[hardsteppa]

Get a mate to help you beat it off.

oh and lol that's gold dude...

[GTSBoy]

I wasn't going to touch it.....

[GeeDog]

I wasn't going to touch it.....

You wouldn't need to if you

Get a mate to help you beat it off.

[jiffo]

4lb hammer or mallet held up against the back side. Sharp blow with a hammer or a more gentle blow with another 4lb on the front side is the aim.

The mallet held up against the back is a dead load which rebounds back onto the joint after the front strike, helping to deform the taper enough to make it let go. As I have always said, it helps also to have a ball joint splitter on there to provide some load axially along the joint so that it will pop out if the taper releases. There's no point having the taper release if it's just going to grab hold again!

And by ball joint splitter I don't mean a pickle fork.

Not big enough gear.

Use a 14lb sledge hammer on the back to absorb the shock.

Then your 4lb (min) to do the hit.

One good hit will work better than dozens of girly taps.

[GTSBoy]

Not big enough gear.

Use a 14lb sledge hammer on the back to absorb the shock.

I'd agree except for the difficulty of fitting the big hammer up in the rear suspension.

[theDETlife]

Had a good laugh to these replies guys thanks for your idea's. i'll get a few mates round we might be able to gang bang it off with our hammers.

Edited October 18, 2014 by theDETlife