Jump to content
SAU Community

Rb25De Stalls When Put Into Reverse Or Drive

UCD15R33
 Share

Recommended Posts

UCD15R33 Experienced

UCD15R33

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Sorry guys, Car was been fine up until Wednesday this week. The Car had a miss on Thursday but I found a dead coil easy solved. The auto transmission fluid was replaced Thursday this week. Since then it wouldn't change gear without stalling. I have checked and cleaned the IAC, Replaced all spark plugs, cleaned air filter box and replaced air filter, replace all vacuum hoses but still no go. and replaced the sump gasket.

Ben C34 Grand Master

Ben C34

Posted
Posted

Well it certainly sounds related to the fluid change.

Don't bother with the O2 sensor, that won't cause that.

Does it just die or stop suddenly?

What trans fluid was used and how much?

GTSBoy Grand Master

GTSBoy

Posted
Posted

Won't be the oxy sensor. Will either be a problem with the converter (clutch stuck on perhaps - which could be an electrical issue) or an idle control issue. Can you keep it alive by keeping the throttle open or will it then drive forward? Easy way to diagnose both issues at the same time!

GTSBoy Grand Master

GTSBoy

Posted
Posted (edited)

Sounds like converter is locked. If you're at the limits of your diagnostic abilities at this point, you're probably going to have to tell him to get it to an auto trans specialist. It might be something simple like a wiring fault, but it might be something mechanical that got triggered or otherwise happened when the oil was dropped.

Edited by GTSBoy
FJ RB25 Enthusiast

FJ RB25

Posted
Posted

Sounds like converter is locked. If you're at the limits of your diagnostic abilities at this point, you're probably going to have to tell him to get it to an auto trans specialist. It might be something simple like a wiring fault, but it might be something mechanical that got triggered or otherwise happened when the oil was dropped.

yep thats what I said.
sleptema Proficient

sleptema

Posted
Posted

Pretty sure you mentioned that it does when put in gear like 4-5 times. Righto, thanks mate, wasn't completely sure about that until the 4th time I thought you were just pulling our legs.

What fluid did you use? And how did you change the oil? I have heard of people running the wrong oil (wrong additives/weight) and it would actually weld the transmission and diff together after a while. If it attempts to go into gear it's not the selector. I'd say she's done farked.

FJ RB25 Enthusiast

FJ RB25

Posted
Posted (edited)

Hey UCD

When even trying to diagnose a problem it is often a good place to start at what has been changed as in majority of cases this is a good place to start ( not broke before changing anything but now is after changing something )

You are saying that the trans oil has been changed but you were not present when the oil was changed ( is this correct ?)

And

You had a problem with a coil ( did you test the car after you changed the coil) ?

The problem you are describing sounds like a converter lock up clutch staying locked up ( google how a converter works and you will see some vids on YouTube)

Basically a converter clutch will lock up at a certain rpm, I.e. 2500 rpm stall = lock up clutch will lock up at 2500 rpm

If your lock up is locked up from the get go then you will stall the engine either in reverse or drive.

If the engine is standard then the converter should lock up around 2000 rpm I think.

Not sure how you could test if it is the converter but I would imagine that if the engine was kept above the converter stall it should run. I.e if you took the car to 2000rpm and changed gear each time above 2000rpm or stall then it shouldn't stall in theory.

Now I have had Eff all to do with auto,s but that is what I have self learnt from the net and YouTube, reading books, not having a dig here but look at the net or ring a auto trans shop.

All the best mate, oh and before anyone else mentions

Stick a turbo on that De

Edited by FJ RB25

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Kinkstaah
      Are you an oil nerd?

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      I think the concept is highlighting the various scenarios where thicker oil helps, and thicker oil potentially doesn't help and only generates heat and costs power, in turn for safety which isn't actually any safer (unless you're going real hot). If anything this does highlight why throwing Castrol 10w-60 for your track days is always a solid, safe bet. 
    • GTSBoy
      Are you an oil nerd?

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Jason should have shown a real viscosity vs temp chart. All the grades have very little viscosity difference at full operating temperature.
    • dbm7
      BCNR33 Blower Motor Resistor - Testing

      By dbm7 · Posted

      Oops... I meant to include the connector  view... BR/W - power from fuse L/W - motor negative to fan control amp (and off to HVAC pin19) OR/B - PWM signal (from HVAC pin20) B --  ground  
    • Murray_Calavera
      Steps to DIY sanding car back ready for respray....

      By Murray_Calavera · Posted

      Yep, if you are applying filler it sounds like there is something wrong with the body lol. Safe to assume there is going to be a lot of sanding going on if your still applying fillers.  Picture a perfect bare metal panel, smooth as glass. You lay down your primer, it's perfect. (why are you going to sand it?) You lay down the colour and clear, it's perfect. No sanding at all took place and you've got a perfectly finished panel.  You won't be chasing your tail, sounds like you were prepping to start laying filler. If your happy with the body after the sanding, there is some bare metal exposed and some areas with primer, no issues at all, start laying the filler. You are safe to lay filler on bare metal or primer (of course check your technical data sheet as usual for what your filler is happy to adhere to).  This isn't a 100% correct statement. There is primer that is happy to adhere to smooth bare metal. There are fillers that are happy to adhere to smooth bare metal. Just make sure you're using the right materials for the job.  Typically if you are using filler, you would go primer, colour and clear. I've never seen any instances before where someone has laid colour over body filler (maybe this happens, but I haven't seen it before). So your plan sounds pretty normal to me. 
    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      I don't think there's any way someone is push starting this car.. I honestly can barely move it, and moving it and steering it is just flat out not possible. I'm sure it is, but needs a bigger man than me. I have a refurbished starter now. The starter man was quite clear and consise showing me how nothing inside a starter really should contribute to slow cranking, and turned out that for the most part... my starter was entirely fine. Still, some of the wear items were replaced and luckily it didn't show any signs of getting too hot, being unfit for use, etc. Which is 'good'. I also noticed the starter definitely sounded different, which is a bit odd considering nothing should have really changed there.... Removed and refit, and we'll pretend one of the manifold bolts didn't fully tighten up and is only "pretty" tight. GM only wants 18ft/lb anyway. I also found a way to properly get my analog wideband reading very slightly leaner than the serial wideband. There's Greg related reasons for this. The serial output is the absolute source of truth, but it is a total asshole to actually stay connected and needs a laptop. The analog input does not, and works with standalone datalogging. Previously the analog input read slightly richer, but if I am aiming at 12.7 I do not want one of the widebands to be saying 12.7 when the source of truth is 13.0. Now the source of truth will be 12.65 and the Analog Wideband will read 12.7. So when I tune to 12.7 it'll be ever so slightly safer. While messing with all of this and idling extensively I can confirm my car seems to restart better while hot now. I did add an old Skyline battery cable between the head and the body though, though now I really realise I should have chosen the frame. Maybe that's a future job. The internet would have you believe that this is caused by bad grounds. In finding out where my grounds actually were I found out the engine bay battery post actually goes to the engine, as well as a seperate one (from the post) to the body of the car. So now there's a third one making the Grounding Triangle which is now a thing. I also from extensive idling have this graph. Temperature (°C) Voltage (V) 85 1.59 80 1.74 75 1.94 70 2.1 65 2.33 60 2.56 55 2.78 50 2.98 45 3.23 40 3.51 35 3.75 30 4.00   Plotted it looks like this. Which is actually... pretty linear? I have not actually put the formula into HPTuners. I will have to re-engage brain and/or re-engage the people who wanted more data to magically do it for me. Tune should be good for the 30th!
×
×
  • Create New...