Cheap+Street Legal+Reliable+10Yr Old 0 -100 In Under 5 Sec?

[mybrains]

Hi all

I just wanted to know how cheap can we go on a V car. Also it needs to be street legal (eng certificate if using forced induction etc) and not about to grenade or cluch fry.... Goal 4.5sec

2nd hand parts ok (eg GTR injectors etc)

As an example if the base car is a v35 imported for 10K and then we start adding on - super/turbo+Forged internals+Exhaust+FMIC+fuel upgrade+oil and radiator upgrade+ECU map+ bigger brakes+ engineering and fuel emission testing

How cheap will we be? 25k? more?

cheapest 10yr old base car something like

http://www.prestigemotorsport.com.au/stock/show_car.php?id=2415

[Guest]

4.5 seconds and cheap generally don't go together.

I would start by watching this...

[sonicii]

I think an R series skyline would be the way to go if your goal is 0-100 times. A V is more of a performance cruiser. You can go FI, but it is going to cost you more. At least with an R, the path is already very well worn, so lots of advice will be available and parts are much more abundant.

[N3ptuNe]

awesome video! I learnt allot!

[t5iv]

Cheap, fast, reliable = pick 2.

Fast and reliable won't be cheap.

Cheap and reliable won't be fast.

Fast and cheap won't be reliable.

[daisu]

Like the others have said, you can pick 2 out of 3 for cheap, fast and reliable.

I had my V35 turbocharged in 2011 so I will give you a quick run down how it went to give you an idea.

I purchased a single turbo HKS kit for $2500 when a wholesaler was getting rid of old stock. The kit had manifolds, gaskets, pipes, wastegate, inlet piping, intercooler, catalytic converter, silicon joins, hoses, lines etc as well as the HKS3037s turbo and a large capacity sump.

Other things I needed to purchase,
Fuel pump,

fuel hose,

fuel pressure regulator,

fuel injectors,

Blow off valve,

aftermarket ECU

That's about 6-7 grand in parts, then you will need to pay for labor to install and dyno tuning.
You are approaching $10k pretty quickly. I already had a stainless catback, can't remember how much it cost though.

My setup is very mild, 3-4psi saw my rwhp go from stock 211hp to 260hp.
Others with the same kit had turned their boost up to 8psi and made a lot more power, but ask them how long their engine lasted before blowing up (6months). These motors were not designed to have forced induction, and the HKS kit is not really suitable for much more power.

If you want it to be somewhat reliable and more powerful, you are going to be spending a fair bit more money. Forget about the HKS turbo kit and go a set of twins or a large single. That will probably add another 10k in parts.

Engine rebuild with rods/pistons, cams, valve springs, inlet manifold, radiator, oil cooler, clutch/flywheel, v36 brake kit, then engineering and testing, I'd say another 10-15k.

So there is 30-35k in modification on top of the purchase price and we haven't started on suspension, which on a 10year old skyline is likely going to need bushes replacing before you even begin upgrading components. Then there are other auxillary things like pressure and temp gauges, rear differential.

Things get expensive really quick, of course you could do it a lot cheaper by using 2nd hand parts but you would be exchanging price for reliability. 2nd hand injectors you run the risk of a dodgy injector ruining your engine. You could pay to have them flow tested but by then your cost is approaching that of new injectors. 2nd hand turbo could end up with a collapsed bearing and turbo shrapnel in your engine.

As others have said, go down the path that is more commonly taken. RB engines are very easy to make decent power and reliable. Go have a look in the RB30 section of this forum. Get a late model R34 GTT (they were manufactured up to 2004?) put the rb30 block under the 25 head.

Or buy a car that has already been modified (someone else has spent all the money and time).

[Nismo 3.2ish]

I put an Autotech APS twin turbo system ($17k) on my auto 350GT skyline and it flies. I cannot say for certain but I would say it is sub 5s. Pins you to the seat and keeps going through the gears.

with the natural torque of the 350gt + TT, better exhaust,oil,water and tuning,Just had a mild tune to 340awhp for response

[Nismo 3.2ish]

I have been driving it for 7 years since I had the TT system, never missed a beat

[sonicii]

Get a late model R34 GTT (they were manufactured up to 2004?)

I think they stopped in 2002 when they released the v35 coupe.

[Hertz Donut]

Your cheapest alternative would probably be a stupidly short diff ratio, somewhere in the mid-5s if you can get it. Sure you'll be doing over 4000rpm at highway speeds but you'll get there bloody quick and have the bonus of knowing every petrol station attendant in the area by their first name. Top speed somewhere around 180km/h at rev cut in top gear is academic anyway.

Also, lose weight. Gut the thing. It all depends on what you're willing to sacrifice for "cheap" speed. I've seen an old late-'80s Honda Integra XSi with a near-stock B16A (intake, exhaust, ECU) run a 13.1 at the drags, but the owner drove it like a rental and there was practically nothing left of the car that wasn't required to move it down the quarter and stop it at the far end.

[Ben C34]

Diff ratio change wouldn't cut it. Making 1st extremely short will make it harder to get traction and then you have to change gears instantly.

Fast and cheap depends how much you do yourself.

Ignore the legal part and use nitrous. Way cheaper than a turbo or supercharger setup and instantaneous power.

[scotty nm35]

Ignore the legal part and use nitrous. Way cheaper than a turbo or supercharger setup and instantaneous power.

Two of the big ones...

[Ben C34]

Two of the big ones...

Exactly. I should add reinforce the floor pan and inlet manifold, but I assume everyone knows that.

[Anfanee]

Technically all of the GTRs will do 0-100 in under 5 seconds from factory....The 32 being the fastest.

[scotty nm35]

Technically all of the GTRs will do 0-100 in under 5 seconds from factory....The 32 being the fastest.

Unfortunately with the V series skylines they forgot the powerz, instead placing them all in the Stagea model for some reason.

[Anfanee]

Unfortunately with the V series skylines they forgot the powerz, instead placing them all in the Stagea model for some reason.

does the V stand for Very bad?

harharhar

[PN-Mad]

Unfortunately with the V series skylines they forgot the powerz, instead placing them all in the Stagea model for some reason.

And also the headaches as well...

[Hertz Donut]

Diff ratio change wouldn't cut it. Making 1st extremely short will make it harder to get traction and then you have to change gears instantly.

Valid point. I've become so accustomed to AWD I've forgotten what traction issues are. Even so, if your goal was more a 40-140km/h warrior it'd be an option.