Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi SAU

Going to buy a 350gt soon, i have found two that i can't decide between!!

1st- 2003 Manual premium package

http://www.carsales.com.au/private/details/_/SSE-AD-3034901

2nd- 2006 Automatic premium package

http://www.carsales.com.au/private/details/_/SSE-AD-2992359

Would appreciate some info on these two models, i heard some where to 03 manuals can have some issues, anyone know about this?

hard to decide between a newer auto or older manual.

Thanks!!! :yucky::action-smiley-069:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/449830-350gt-2003-manual-or-2006-auto/
Share on other sites

Oooh go the silver one, as apparently it is a "Unique Nissan Skyline", as opposed to all the other millions of silver ones out there that also imho, look as boring as batshit.

Nah seriously, very similar cars, except the 2006 is a series 3. so has a slightly nicer interior, nicer colour (imho), probably nicer HID/projector headlights (not clear from the pic - and while we are speaking of it, who tf puts up a whole 4 photos when trying to sell a car? - including no underbonnet shot which is somewhat concerning), and it has the uber cool series 3 somewhat stove-top style tail-lights (which have a button to open the boot, unlike series 1 and 2 V35s).

Personally I would go the white one.

But as we said in the other thread, do some homework - at a minimum get it odo checked. But you should also get a decent local Nissan-leaning workshop to have a look over it - pay close attention to whether both door locks work with the remote with the internal lock button, whether both windows work with the car on and off, how worn/lipped the rotors are, whether the lower control arm bushes are on their way out, whether the cd player will accept and eject CDs, whether the climate control unit works perfectly (both heat and cool), and many other things a V35 specialist will know to look for. If you are unlucky, you may need to spend up to $5k in short time to repair all of the above items, as it is normally around 100k that many of these faults surface. Then you would say that buying George's/Sikahalv's near brand new V35 is MUCH better value. A poor man pays twice.

But as we said in the other thread, do some homework - at a minimum get it odo checked. But you should also get a decent local Nissan-leaning workshop to have a look over it - pay close attention to whether both door locks work with the remote with the internal lock button, whether both windows work with the car on and off, how worn/lipped the rotors are, whether the lower control arm bushes are on their way out, whether the cd player will accept and eject CDs, whether the climate control unit works perfectly (both heat and cool), and many other things a V35 specialist will know to look for. If you are unlucky, you may need to spend up to $5k in short time to repair all of the above items, as it is normally around 100k that many of these faults surface. Then you would say that buying George's/Sikahalv's near brand new V35 is MUCH better value. A poor man pays twice.

Appreciate the kind words Andrew :cheers:

Edited by Sikahalv

thanks for your reply, yeh i am more keen on the white one, as i am sick of silver, old car was silver.

I asked the owner for some more interior pictures, and he took them at night time... pretty slack, i then asked for some more preferably taken in daylight and he never sent any.

The CD 001 6sp fitted to the series one can have issues with weak synchros. This was fixed with the CD009/update in 2005. If you take it for a test drive, make sure you do some quick gear changes once it is warmed up, any crunching and you still want the car, allow about $3k for a transmission replacement.

I haven't driven one with a bad gearbox, so I can't say 100%. But a healthy gearbox should allow you to do fairly brisk changes (don't be brutal with it), when warmed up properly. It should not cruch at all. From what I have heard, 3rd and 5th are common gears to go first.

Why don't you go and drive an auto and a manual and decide what you like? Sorry to be blunt, but generally people have a preference for one or other, and then start shopping from there.

It's pretty unusual to not be able to decide on two very different cars... 03 is series one, 06 is series 2 or 3... So the interiors are different too...

Test driving both this weekend mate. I obviously would like the better/more reliable one, thats why i asked if there are any known problems with either model. Transmission preference is my second priority.. and i wouldnt call them "very different" if it is only minor physical appearances that they differ in.

Unless there is something else you can tell me about why they are so different?

Cheers.

As I mentioned, the interiors are totally different. Earlier models had brembos, that aren't available on later cars. Later models don't suffer the head unit issues. There are ecu programming changes between the models as to the closed loop running plus all the differences Andrew pointed out with the series 3 cars. However seems to be missing the 19" wheels it should be on.

Either one could be a dog with 120,000kms wound back off the clock. Check with the jap odo services offered.

Good luck.

Wha? You selling already?

^^ http://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/449777-buying-a-350gt-need-advice/?p=7411050

It's more of an expression of interest Lee, as I'm loving my V35 Skyline 350GT - She's one of a kind!

I will only sell her for the right price - to the right person - who will appreciate my V35 as much as I do :yes:

If and when she does sell, I'll upgrade to a V36... until then, I've continued with a steady stream of upgrades for her, such as new tires, clear side indicators, new battery, custom exhaust and soon I'll have the windows tinted too :woot:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Ok gotcha, so one post to fpr  another to bov  and I have the mishimoto boost controller and a link g4+ so I’d just have the tuner set it up properly. For the last two from plenum post throttle to  ecu/ boost controller, I know that I have a hose coming from the ecu that I was confused about so I assume that’s what connect to the boost controller from the ecu? And then the last is just from plenum to boost controller then to wastegate?
    • From there, it was just a quick electrical check, prime the oil and start her up Which, is not what happened. 1. Bloody seppo Aeropro battery holder. Not only was it too tall for the battery (which I'll forgive them for, I have another battery the same nominal size that is taller than Neil's one, but the bracket is a fixed height so the battery was spaced up) But the thing that really shits me is the hardware to hold it on requires a 7/32 Hex key. WTF. No-one will ever be able to remove or install the damn thing without a hex key they don't own 2. Kill switch no longer worked once the console was installed. Neil mentioned above he had to adjust the length but it no longer cleared the console once installed. Sorted. 3. Suspiciously, the brake light holders were hanging in the boot with no globes. Sure enough the stopper on the brake pedal was missing so they are always on unless the kill switch is activated. Will pick one up tomorrow (turns out 32 and 33 don't use the same stopper) 4. All that sorted, I turned on the kill switch, turned the key to ACC. Nothing. Turned it to IGN. Nothing. Checked some fuses and found the main IGN in the boot was missing which improved things once it was replaced. Now ECU and dash lights turn on with IGN but still no fuel pump. 5. Turned it to Start....ECU on, no fuel pump, no starter. Plus the voltage dropped straight to 9v.  I suspect the starter is f**ked but am going to have to work through it all and see what is happening, really looks like more than one issue. Does anyone have the R33 fuse box key with the circuit it sources from (eg BAT, ACC, IGN, SRT etc) and supplies? I can find a translated list showing Amps and circuit without supply circuit, and I can find supply circuit without Amps and target circuit.
    • 3rd time lucky, the AAC is now all plumbed up after getting some final fittings All set up under the plenum of maximum access
    • OK, so the weight has been bugging because it was really low. I did it again today and got a more believable answer at 1246 without driver And with a 93kg driver I'm pretty sure the car was still slightly on the quickjack last time meaning the full weight was not on the scales  
×
×
  • Create New...