Jump to content
SAU Community

[Melbourne] 1993 R33 GTST for Sale

Rossco_Grey33
 Share

Recommended Posts

Rossco_Grey33 Explorer

Rossco_Grey33

Posted
Posted

Hello Gentlemen...

As the title implies, I am selling my R33 GTST. I've owned this car for a year and a half now, and I think it's spoiled me for whatever cars I may drive in the Future. The Handling on this Car is just Spot on, every over car feels like it's going to tip over when I go around a corner fast... Anyways, As of 6 months ago I left my average IT job and went back to Uni to Study Mechanical Engineering. As such, I can't really afford to keep the car anymore, hence the sale... But Anyway, Here's Some Details about the Car...

-1993 R33 GTS25T (Series 1 Obviously)

-Gunmetal grey in Colour

-5 Speed Manual Gearbox

-SUNROOF, and the usual Climate control and such

-This car was an Early Import, the guy who owned it before me had it for 2 years.

-Has done about 115,000KM's at the moment

-Has Obviously had it's 100,000KM service, in which I had the Usual belts, Front brake rotors, all pads replaced, and Water Pump replaced

-Clutch was also replaced at 100,000KM due to slight slipping (Better to change it then let it die and have to be towed home)

Car Also has the Following:

-TIEN Coilovers All-round. Not sure which Models, but allow for height adjustment, Dampening and Adjustable Pillow Mounts

-Front and Rear Strut Braces

-18" ANZ Matrix Wheels in the Shadow Chrome colour

-Cat Back 3" Apexi N1 Clone Exhaust. The Exhaust has had the middle muffler chaged to a Hot-Dog style muffler to ensure Legal ground clearence, and has the Big N1 Style muffler at the End.

-K&N Panel Filter in Standard Air-Box

-Greddy Type S Blow-Off Valve. This BOV is orginally a Plumb Back item, however the return pipe is currectly blocked off and it is venting into the Atmo. It's a Simple 2 minute job to Change this set-up from a Amto to Plumb back

-Nismo Short Shifter

-Basic Aftermarket Gearknob (Kinda looks like a Momo one)

-Pivot Fuel Controller. Enables slight alterations to Fuel mix, which comes in handy with the big exhaust and such.

-Starbo Turbo timer

-Replaced Leathers on Gearboot and Handbrake

-Panasonic CD Player with Kicker splits in the front Doors and Kicker speakers on the parcel shelf.

-Remote Central locking with Immobiliser

Other Parts not on the Car but Included in sale...

-Original 16" Wheels

-Smaller Cat back exhaust with Original Rear Muffler (Blows 85Db at Mcloed EPA testing station, TWICE!)

-3" Pipe to go from Cat to that smaller pipe that comes from the Turbo

-'Racing' Cat Convertor (IE Straight through pipe with bracket to bolt on Cat Heat Shield)

-Some Chrome pedals that were taken off because they made the Car unroadworthy

-One of those Puched Out drift Car stickers in White

Other than that, the Car will be sold with a RWC, and buyer can have the choice of which exhaust he would like on...

and of course, Price:

I am Asking $17,000 or best offer, and Would consider trade for cheaper car with Cash adjustment (Looking for something Different, but let me know what you're thinking anyway...)

My Digital Camera is currently 1) At home, and 2) Charging Batteries, so I'll have pictures up in a few hours...

You can contact me on:

Phone: 0403 204 260

E-mail: [email protected]

MSN: [email protected]

Thanks!

-Ross

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/44984-melbourne-1993-r33-gtst-for-sale/
Share on other sites
  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • carnoobb
      V35 Overheat + Coolant Boil & Overflow + Engine not Starting

      By carnoobb · Posted

      Hey all, my 2004 Nissan Skyline 350GT overheated the other day with coolant boiling and leaking out of the coolant reservoir when I was parking. So today, I started it up again just to see if it was a thermostat/head gasket issue. After about 20 mins of running, temps were normal again, no coolant was leaking out and the upper reservoir hose was warm but my engine suddenly cut off. I checked the oil dipstick and cap when it was running and there was no white foamy residue and the exhaust did not have white smoke. I tried starting up the car again but it would only crank, similar to when I had a camshaft sensor issue just that now there’s no check engine light on the dash. Any ideas? Unfortunately I don’t have an OBD2 that can read the Nissan's programme.
    • Papichulo96
      Rb head oil drain dimensions

      By Papichulo96 · Posted

      Bump on this to not make another post, had a ‘head drain’ leak on me and have the engine out as we speak. Planning on just putting a new freeze plug back in , plug the tapped holes and just be done with that headache.    Now I still want to relieve pressure to allow oil to pass down the blocks returns easier. I’ve seen catch cans with multiple vents help folks with this issue on this forum.  I’m wanting to make my own. I have some pictures here of my setup if anyone can help how I should plumb and design the catch can I would deeply appreciate it !   rb25 Oil upgrades: 1.0mm restrictor n1 pump/billet gears extended crank collar  extended sump with trap doors/w welded fitting    
    • GTSBoy
      Need AC Compressor for R32

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      The Frenchy's kit is the way to go forward. A modern compressor that weighs about 1/2 as much, is at least twice as efficient, and will do a good job on R134a. And of course the kit has everything else you need to connect it up and have it work properly.
    • Zabuza
      Need AC Compressor for R32

      By Zabuza · Posted

      Hey all , I am in the process of having the AC system in my r32 GTST converted from r12 to r134a and I’m being told my compressor has gone bad and I will need a new one. I was wondering if anybody has any suggestions for what is the best route to go aside from dropping $1500 on a new oem one? I did see that Frenchy’s performance garage offers a kit to mount a Toyota compressor, has anybody actually used this kit on their car? Or is there anywhere I could purchase just a clutch? Any help is appreciated.
    • GTSBoy
      Help Understand GTT Boost Setup

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Well, your RB20 ECU loom won't have wires for the boost solenoid, that boost sensor, and possibly one or two other things. There could be differences in seemingly random things like the charcoal canister purge solenoid, because the 25DET has to handle boost in the vacuum system and the 20DE does not. I don't know - I haven't looked. It is very likely that all the most important things are same-same, being the main sensors like AFM, CAS, etc, and the injectors and ignition. Not that you'll need the AFM for the Haltech anyway. I would suggest that you would seriously want to sit down with the pinouts for both ECUs and just go through them and highlight green what is the same, orange what is different/missing, and make a plan from there. It's not going to be difficult. It will either be the same or need to be fixed.
×
×
  • Create New...