Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Howdy lads,

need some advice, I have a 94 R32 GTR and the HICAS lights keep coming on. Its seems to be coming on once I get up to speed and not when travelling slowly as should this system in normal operation. We have checked all the fluids etc in the 4ws etc and it only happened after my mate gave it a bit of a kaning the other day befoer that no problems. Any advice on what to check or how if there is any way to reset the system.

thanksMB ;)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/44986-hicas-lights-coming-on-alot/
Share on other sites

My R32 Gtst does the same thing, I've checked the fluid level and everything, but once i get up over about 120-150kph, the hicas light comes on.  I'm not really sure what is causing it, and from the looks of things, it's just annoying, and not affecting anything.

Of course you do that speed on private roads wink wink. But yeah, you tried running the HICAS diagnostics yet?

Guest two.06l

:wavey:

I have a 32 gtr and the hicas light always comes on after about 10 mins of driving. Previously had a 31 gtst and the same thing happened. Apparently it is a very common fault. Tried numerous fault finding techniques over the years to fix, without success. Now I just live with it!

Cheers

Stace

Mine was comin on every now and then.. Had my car data streamed and it turned out to be a power issue with my hicas module. The data stream is not expensive either 100bucks and I also got my ecu reset (yes a real reset not some dodgy disconnect battery thing). Also got other little things that was picked up by the data stream fixed.

I am not sure if the ECU reset has cause any changes, but car seemed to be more responsive now.. :cheers:

Oh this is for an R34 GTT. Would say the data streamin well worth the 100bucks to find out what faults there are with the car and also the ECU reset. :cheers:

My hicas light tends to come on sometimes after high speed or going over bumps. I have an aftermarket steering wheel fitted. Once i turn the car on and off it dissapears though. Apparently aftermarket wheels can do something to the hicas sensor or you might have a faulty hicas sensor. My car seems to drive fine even after the light has came on so i dont worry about it; however i've read in a past post about someone nailing it on the freeway and the hicas light came on and the car started changing lanes by itself at 160+kph.....I guess you could always get a hicas lock.....**** hicas.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Starting with issues 1 - 5, we have already run into a problem...!  Issue #4 contained 2x front brake calipers, instead of 1 caliper and 1x steering knuckle. Will have to call DeAgostini on Monday to sort it out. Anyway here's some photos.  Issue #1 is the front bumper, headlights and number plate. Issue #2 is the front wheel (with "We produced with spartan air." text on the centre cap!) and tyre, the front lip spoiler and cylinder head cover with ignition coils under the centre cover... which will never be seen again. Issue #3 is the bonnet and cylinder head. Issue #4 is the front strut, brake disc (with laser etched metal discs) and brake caliper. I stopped here because of the issue with the missing steering knuckle.  Next update will be #5 - #10 in a few weeks.
    • DeAgostini is one of a few companies that release quite large (the largest commonly available size actually) 1/8 scale models in a series of weekly issues over 100 - 110 instalments.  They release different models for different markets and DeAgostini Japan have release the BNR32 Skyline GT-R Nismo last month. I've made two of these 1/8 scale sized cars (one an R35 GT-R from 2012 - 2014, the other I'm just about halfway through, a BNR34 Skyline GT-R from the 2Fast 2Furious movie) so when this R32 was announced there was no way I could ignore it as it's my favourite out of all Nissans.  Each issue costs around $20 so it costs about $2.2K when completed. I suppose it is very expensive for what it is, but the quality and details are really very good, and there are many "gimmicks" like fully functioning exterior and interior lights operated with a remote control, working steering, all doors/bonnet/boot/fuel lid open and close, the side mirrors fold in and it even has a speaker for the engine revving sounds when you turn the lights on.  Each issue comes with a magazine that tells the story of the BNR32 Skyline GT-R Nismo from the first design stages of the BNR32 to Group A homologation and the various racing version that were run in the Japanese Group A and JGTC, and Australian Group A.  So I plan to update the build in this thread 5 issues at a time.  https://deagostini.jp/r32/?srsltid=AfmBOooKjxDc4EUK2rmXqMBPgyHfFJ24s4oEPJBNpnF-lFlsRoW0PE6P
    • As per title.. has anyone used so far? Keen to hear results, comparisons. In the market for a new mani for my new turbo. Any issues cracking?
    • Re read everything that has been written about this in this thread.. Let us know if you're still confused.
    • This would be a new pump with new gears. I'm just unclear on whether it's a good idea to run more oil pump flow if you don't actually need said flow. Oil level is set a minute or so after shutting off a warm engine so wouldn't the high RPM oil level in the sump end up lower all things equal? Plan is OEM clearances, main concern in my mind is whether the OEM pump can keep up with the flow requirements of any additional oil coolers.
×
×
  • Create New...