Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

From my much more modest experience with a basic RB30 I would say there is no way the 3.2 could not be a great daily driver even with 400 or 500awkw if tuned appropriately. I agree 1000 injectors would give you a little margin ... those 700s could well get maxed out on E85

  • Like 1

I'd say you'll be needing bigger injectors than those peanut 700's, Pete. Especially if you're going to flex tune it.

I have just emailed the shop and asked what injectors are in the car, maybe a higher rating or he is changing them , I will try and find out tomorrow.

I doubt they would stuff it up over changing the injectors if they need changing, but ????

Yes definitely upgrade injectors I ran out of fuel at 470rwkws on ID1000s on E85. They are cheap and will save you a re-tune

I cannot imagine them not upgrading these if they need it, as I said , I do not know what was put in there when they did the original build, the bloke spent over $50k including Z-tune body set, but I think Advan used a copy bonnet but I could not get them to verify the parts bought from them, including the Nismo 2-way LSD??

So I am in the dark on a few things but trying to sort it out :/

Power will depend on boost level really, but a responsive 400awkws sounds about right to me :yes:

700s will be ok for 400 on 98, not so good on E85 :(

Not sure what injectors are in the car, they could be 1000cc , waiting on an answer from CRD. They are installing the flex fuel system so they now the injectors will have to handle the E85, so ?

When I spoke to Jim about building the 3.2 he said that a torquey 400awkw on pump would be a nice street car and would give me what I want.

He said if I ever wanted to turn up the wick, big HPs can be obtained, but like everything, more $$$$$$$$$$$$$$$s have to pass hands, yes , from mine to ?

I was going to buy a GTR, but did not like them, I wanted a car that made me feel like I was driving it , 8 years in an auto was enough , but a TT 350GT auto can be a lot of fun.

What I will get from this build should be more than what I need, but I will enjoy what I use :)

Just had a look on your pictures. You have blue caps. I BELIEVE. Those light blue ones are Sard 700's.

http://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/447134-sard-700cc-injectors-x6/

Same colour as in this for sale thread.

I know what you mean Luke, glad I am not young anymore (joke) maybe we can bolt in a jet motor soon, haha

On the sad side, no pics :yucky:

Has the build come to an end :woot:

Fn hope not :unsure:

Just had a look on your pictures. You have blue caps. I BELIEVE. Those light blue ones are Sard 700's.

http://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/447134-sard-700cc-injectors-x6/

Same colour as in this for sale thread.

Just have a feeling they were 700s

I will try to get an answer and that is like pulling fn teeth

Yes , yes, you blokes were right .

It is like they hold your car hostage , photos are like getting a Video of your love one proving they are still alive but you have to pay and take a chance to get them back in good condition :(

I am sure this post will not help my situation but I am at a point were I do not give a fark!

The Mushroom :rant:

So long as they're not sending you single nuts by mail, you'll be ok.

They send nothing, a nut would be good, so looks like it could get nasty , hope not, but shit happens :)

The trouble is they read all of this shit and I get the blame for what other blokes have said, the worst thing is, you blokes were right :/

So here we are, drive line was going in and communication has stopped, farking cars :verymad:

I think I will trade the Tiida in so I can get another fun car, 4 door something and I do not give a shit how long it takes :)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The brakes are all stock bar some DBA slotted discs and the EBC pads and braided lines. The car has brake ducts as standard but they're kinda pointed in the general direction of the brakes rather than really getting at the heat source. I guess I should hit it with an infra red thermometer after a session and see what they're at.  100%! Its just a curiosity more than anything. As I said, high temp brake fluid was such a track day rage back in the day. From people I speak to at the track and threads on here everybody has their own take on it but I'm not gonna scoff at spending a few more bucks. 
    • I've always approached this as, price is comparable between low temp and high temp fluid. Just put in the high temp fluid. I've not going to lose any sleep thinking about could I have saved $20 on brake fluid that is going to live in the car over the next 2 to 3 years. 
    • Nah, the creases were pretty large, and the sheet metal is pretty thin and hard to work out, time alone is in the hours to fix, and would probably have more bog than I would be happy with In other, more happy news, I gave MX5 Mania a call and they have a few clean boots available for $400 a peice, I've contacted Fineline and given them their contact details, I'm a idiot for not thinking of them sooner
    • That really depends on how hot the brakes get and how much of any heat is transferred into the fluid. That really makes it at least a vehicle specific question, and more than like a specific vehicle specific question, depending on what brakes (ie stock, bigger rotors, different calipers) or even what pads are on it. And then there's the question of cooling air. Is there plenty stock? Is there no special cooling arrangements stock? Has some/more been added? In other words, I think you have to do the experiment to obtain the data. And if you;re worried - tie on some ducting?
    • In all the track days I've done over the past few months I've only had 1 issue with braking and thats with my current EBC pads (can't remember the colour, but they're not a track pad). I don't *think* I have had issues with brake fluid getting too hot, my understanding is that when that happens you will have quite noticeable brake loss - which I haven't had.  I'm using just regular ol' Penrite Super DOT4 fluid. I use this fluid in everything and my cars always seem to stop so I see no reason to change, except ... for the 335i. I need to do a fluid flush and was thinking about my fluid of choice and wondering if I should consider using something more high temp? Its not a super fast car by any standards but I'd hate to do a flush and then find myself with no brakes when I get. to Wakefield.  I guess, my question can be summed up as "How fast do you need to be driving to need higher temp brake fluid?"  I remember high temp fluid was considered a must have back in the day when I had my GTR. 
×
×
  • Create New...