Jump to content
SAU Community

Have You Successfully Fitted A Raspberry Pi To Your Factory Tv/nav System

Rotaman

By Rotaman,
in Car Audio & Electrical

 Share

Recommended Posts

Rotaman Rookie

Rotaman

Posted
Posted

Has anyone actually hooked up a Raspberry Pi and been happy with the results.


Why I ask, is I have a 2005 stagea M35 with factory Nav/TV etc and connected my Raspberry Pi via the aux input at the factory TV tuner box in the rear left quarter.


I have tried two different ways to connect the Raspberry Pi, one via the analogue video output using RCA cable and 3.5 phone jack for sound out connected directly to the aux ( VTR ) input.


This gave me a good sound, but picture quality on the factory screen was fairly poor.


The other method was using HDMI output from the Raspberry Pi then via a HDMI to composite adaptor out to the aux ( VTR ) input again. Results again were much the same, good sound, but picture quality was average.


I'm using XBMC on my Raspberry Pi.


I would like to get this so the picture is of good enough quality that I can easily read the words on the screen without them being a little fussy and very small.


I guessing this may be a case of changing settings in the workings of XBMC maybe, but as of yet I have not managed to be able to change the screen resolution size to see any difference in what I see on the small car screen.


I know if I changed the screen to one that had HDMI input, that I would get a lot better screen picture, but I would think the factory screen would still give reasonable results.


Before anybody suggests taking my car to see who ever, I just wish to point out that I'm in New Zealand.


I'm happy to change any wiring, or direct link something into the factory tv tuner if that is needed.


Any help with this would be much appreciated.



Rotaman


  • Like 1
  • 1 month later...
Kinks Grand Master

Kinks

Posted
Posted

I'm looking at this, but I am hoping to replace the screen with something more modern. the standard screen is 5.5" diagonal, which is an unusual size. Fitting a 4.3" would be easy but a backwards step in size. 7" seems just a bit too big to make it fit.. and there's not really anything in between.

otherwise if you can get a decent result with the factory screen, it's a good size so i'd be happy to leave it. haven't tried pulling mine apart yet. I'm on the lookout for a spare TV unit to try replacing the screen as above.. don't feel like leaving a hole in my dash while I mess around :P

where does the composite video input plug in for the screen?

Chris Rogers Grand Master

Chris Rogers

Posted
Posted

Geoff,

Screen is a sharp or Panasonic in the m35 from memory.

It needs a data feed to fire it as there are 4 inputs that need to be setup.

The 34 is a 5.8" unit and easier as it is a sharp unit. I have the datasheet for that one and if you can generate RGBS then you are on your way. That unit is a twin input with a logic trigger to select it.

Chris Rogers Grand Master

Chris Rogers

Posted
Posted

This is a later motorized screen. Similar idea. Toshiba supplied. The board supplies all of the signals to run it.

post-2209-0-09028200-1417336306_thumb.jpg

  • 2 months later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • TurboTapin
      R32 GTST - 600KW+ RB28/CD009 Build

      By TurboTapin · Posted

      I just got to work and skimmed through 61508 and 61511. I was surprised the CSA adopted both, but neither are enforced. To recap what I read, it states that in a perfect world, they should be segregated but they acknowledge that this is not industry standard and clearly mention that they allow mixing of safety and non-safety. 61511 also mentions software segregation like AB does in their safety PLC's.   Now if only I could go back to control, let alone safety over comms. In my current line of work, we're only allowed monitoring and basic control over comms. Everything critical must still be hard wired as much as possible. 
    • TurboTapin
      RB25DET Solid lifter conversion

      By TurboTapin · Posted

      I've unfortunately never been as they're on the complete other side of the continent and another country that isn't currently letting us in as easily as they use to. I even heard their stop signs over there actually say "Stop" instead of "Arret". If I decided to trek the 48h drive, I wouldn't know when or where to stop haha. Whenever I order parts from UP Garage, I order from Japan as it's cheaper. Same with GKTech... oddly enough, it's cheaper shipped from Australia then it is the US.  UP Garage Japan operates their US leg though, unlike Tomei. If Tomei JPN had the power to close down Tomei USA, I'm sure it would be done in a day. They're two completely separate entities. Tomei JPN messed up somewhere originally agreeing to its creation and got sacked big time. 
    • KKaplumbaa
      SR20 to cefiro

      By KKaplumbaa · Posted

      I asked someone about this and he told me about the Audi 1.8T engine. But I think it would be difficult to swap
    • MBS206
      The Cool Tools Thread

      By MBS206 · Posted

      I don't know that machine specifically, but I'd personally go for something with a little more kick than 130amp. Around up to 180 would be good. At the 6mm range, you're really pushing the machine hard and don't have a long period you can run for with out needing to give it a rest. Lots of MIG machines come with a regulator and hose. A lot will come with a starter roll of wire too, but it isn't too expensive to buy. I'd recommend NOT buying a massive roll too, as you don't want it sitting around FOREVER in the machine between uses and potentially going to shit. For thin sheet metal, get a roll of 0.6mm if you're doing over 3mm and above, switch over to 0.8mm wire. Even by 2mm you'd probably really want to switch. As for gas battle, it's all swap and go style now. You'll pay a bottle deposit, and then X amount to swap for a full one. I think it's like $200 or $300 for a D Size bottle upfront as "deposit", and like $110 to $150 per swap. My D size CO2/argon bottle lasts a fair bit of welding on the MIG. And I run an E size bottle on the TIG. For DIY MIG, stick with a D size bottle. If you really start to get into a LOT of welding and doing it really regularly, then upgrade. If you're like most DIY car guys, one D bottle will last you 2 or 3 years easily. I think I've been on my current bottle about 5 years. It is starting to get low, but I've been smashing it a lot more the last 6 months.
    • KKaplumbaa
      SR20 to cefiro

      By KKaplumbaa · Posted

      SR20s came with cars like the Bluebird and Primera, but the RB20 never came. The ones in Turkey were either brought in specially or from abroad. That's why RBs aren't as common as SRs. And if a part breaks or I need to replace it when doing maintenance, it's harder to find parts for RBs.
×
×
  • Create New...