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Yep rock solid, had my GT-R on them (all four wheels off), car didn't wobble/move. The flat design top is much better than that 'c' shape the smaller stands use, doesn't do as much damage (i.e. nil). Everyone knows how awesome the undercarriage of the R32s are.

  • 1 month later...

I brought my GTR with a suspected blown motor( got it cheap) went out brought an already complete motor rb30 bottom end, then pulled the 26 out , turned out it shitted an exhaust wheel but the motor was fine could of only put a turbo on and drove the thing instead the 30 went in waited 12months to drive it. Spent the money doing the 26/30 mods, got the motor in my car, got 8000kms and lost oil pressure, the bloke I brought the bottom end off put the n1 pump on with no crank collar. She was a ticking time bomb . New motor again now, the cheap GTR is not cheap no more haha

  • Like 1

I am leaving the PT6262 on mine, I think it will do the job I want and help get the early response combined with the 3.2L , OS Valves and custom cams.

Driving me mad waiting for the bloody thing to be finished :(

I hope I do not end up back on this thread for the wrong reasons,haha

The worst mod I did was my crdi diesel engine. I put on the cheap performance chip in, the one that you plug in to the common rail sensor.

All it's is a gay resistor to the fuel injector to increase duration !! Fuel flooding.

Yes it did give me more power:)

No it doesn't save fuel

No its not safer

Yes I did give bouncing revs when driving with it for a few months and could not idle straight :angry:

yes more soot :unsure:

On a hot summers day car struggled to hit 100km/h :blink:

Time to unplug it !!!

I think I got off lucky. No damage yet:D

Just a story that comes to mind ...

Bought coilovers for my Bora. Read that when you go 50+ mm lower than stock, the sway bar will hit the control arms.

Bought a new front sway bar to avoid that problem.

Went to central coast to put the coilovers in at a mates place, undid all the front suspension and dropped the struts out but couldn't get the sway bar out no matter what we did...

SO, we decided to drop the subframe as it was the only way in, this included detaching the steering box. Got the sway bar out.

Putting the new Whiteline bar in, it wouldn't fit anything. Even if I got it sitting in kind-of the right position, none of the bolts or links would connect.

At this stage its 5:30pm and we're almost out of light on a Sunday on a job that should have taken 3 - 4hrs tops.

We gave up well after dark and wheeled the car out onto the road for a towie, none of the steering was connected yet.

Got a train home, called Pedders the next day to get it towed and put back to stock.... Which they did and I got the train up to get it.

Seems we had the FWD sway bar, not the AWD one.

And .... as a kicker .... The swaybar rubbing problem is only a problem on the FWD's. We didn't need to change swaybars at all, let alone drop the subframe and steering.

:(

cheap fart cannon on my R31 Exec, with auto gearbox. Got it for nothing, thought it would be fun to get it welded on and I was young and dopey

Drove it home, got a massive headache from the insane drone, took it back and got a resonator welded on, took it around the block... drove back into the muffler shop and got them to rip the whole thing out again, it just sounded like a hot vindaloo aftermath

Never again

  • Like 1

bought a soarer in sydney, handled a bit funny, in went solid diff bushes, new control arms and subframe pineapples.

Not sure how, we found massive rust where the rear subframe bolts onto the car, decided to wreck the car and part it out. What a good way to spend money.

  • Like 1

Just a story that comes to mind ...

Bought coilovers for my Bora. Read that when you go 50+ mm lower than stock, the sway bar will hit the control arms.

Bought a new front sway bar to avoid that problem.

Went to central coast to put the coilovers in at a mates place, undid all the front suspension and dropped the struts out but couldn't get the sway bar out no matter what we did...

SO, we decided to drop the subframe as it was the only way in, this included detaching the steering box. Got the sway bar out.

Putting the new Whiteline bar in, it wouldn't fit anything. Even if I got it sitting in kind-of the right position, none of the bolts or links would connect.

At this stage its 5:30pm and we're almost out of light on a Sunday on a job that should have taken 3 - 4hrs tops.

We gave up well after dark and wheeled the car out onto the road for a towie, none of the steering was connected yet.

Got a train home, called Pedders the next day to get it towed and put back to stock.... Which they did and I got the train up to get it.

Seems we had the FWD sway bar, not the AWD one.

And .... as a kicker .... The swaybar rubbing problem is only a problem on the FWD's. We didn't need to change swaybars at all, let alone drop the subframe and steering.

:(

that would be funny, if it was funny :)

Bloody cars,LOL

  • Like 1

WELL HERE WE GO....

Bought GTR

After 3 months Motor went Bang, cracking pistons, shattering valves, it did a really good job.

Fully rebuilt engine, decided to leave standard turbos because yolo (just for the run in stage, kesh was low)

On the way home from Full rebuild running the engine in and not boosting it i spat exhaust wheel of one of my turbos out my exhaust.

Got new turbos

AFM died on the way home.

finished run in

TPS died on the dyno

Fixed TPS

Split a rad hose

Fixed hose

ran for a while

Lost half my oil

Fixed everything again all is running better than ever!!!

until.

Got shit fuel two weeks ago and was misfiring on 14psi...

Cracked the shits, Haltech, no AFM, and E85

what will go next?

#GTRlife

Well the answer came.

Overheated, suspect shrunk piston (possibly from when i dropped teh oil)

Engine out, and lets find out

#GTRlife

First night I owned my first GTR I hit 2nd pretty hard and snapped my drive shaft. :(

Limped the car home and had to tell my wife what had happened and .. ahem .. *how* it had happened.

  • Like 2

Which chip was it, cause I'm looking for one for my Rodeo

A cheap one of eBay cost me about 150$ and they promised the world.

DP chip is different coz they override the ecu with their own program but still the map they use is copy n paste into the chip that's been test on one car. It could be ok for one car then other a disaster. Not all engine are identical some have bad casts other good n make a big difference in tuning would you just copy and paste a map for your skyline. And hoping the your car has the same specs.

I personally would get it on the dyno n do it properly the 1st time and then it's unique to your car.

Btw do research on it dp chip

My mates a Toyota mechanic and he said the dp chip f**ks the engine hard up..... valves start melting.

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