Jump to content
SAU Community

Revving Boost Issue

driftindustries
 Share

Recommended Posts

driftindustries Contributor

driftindustries

Posted
Posted

Hey all!!

Ok so story goes. - Car is fuel as, and wont rev correctly just spits and farts etc..

1997 200SX S14 - Car

RB20DET Engine & Box

- Forward Facing Plenum

- T3 Turbo

RB25DET (Series 1) Conversion Loom

Have Changed, AFM, Plugs, Injectors, Coilpacks, O2 Sensor

Any ideas ??

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/450399-revving-boost-issue/
Share on other sites
chiksluvit Experienced

chiksluvit

Posted
Posted (edited)

Don't know that turbo but an aftermarket turbo with stock ecu is :/
How long have you had it for? @ what boost and for how long? Compression test?
I know stock rb20 ECUs don't handle high boost well and could lead to destroying an engine. I learnt what pinging sounds like with a boost t in an r32 gtst 10 years ago

Issues from cars with conversion done are really hard to diagnose online because so many things are customised
Ie it could be an injector plug that was not soldered/ joined properly or a bit loose since you used rb25 loom which has side feed plugs and rb20 uses top feeds hence different plugs. Or many other things
Definitely more info needed

I thought sr20 from s14 would be a better engine in the s14 than an rb20 but anyway

edit: read again realised you said havent ran correctly since conversion. check wiring and timing i'd say

Edited by chiksluvit

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy
      R34 Gtt Wheel Offset Advice

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      What can't be done with a little bit of decking board or similar timber bolted to a hub flange via 2 wheel nuts is not worth talking about.
    • silviaz
      R34 GTT idle problem

      By silviaz · Posted

      I noticed something. On the tps sensor and the sensor behind the adjustment screw is adjusted towards the far left. Are these screws supposed to be centered? (this sensor was in the same position before the tune as well)  Also attached a photo of where my car usually idles at when warm (sometimes a tiny bit above that). I think I might have screwed up the calculation and it might have better than I thought lol at 750rpm still not 650rpm though.      
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      So for both general interest of engine health, and to rule out any coolant/oil issues, I organised an oil analysis done on the 125,000klm oil Results below, all good, just a bit of fuel dilution which I'm not too worried about
    • Kinkstaah
      R34 Gtt Wheel Offset Advice

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      This is actually a really good way of measuring what wheels fit. If only there was a similar measurement between hub face and suspension :p That said, it's probably pretty simple to actually measure it all with the wheel off the car for the rear. The front is a bit more complex but.. 
    • AdiR34
      R34 Gtt Wheel Offset Advice

      By AdiR34 · Posted

      Being the top Google search result for R34 wheel-related inquiries, lemme throw down my experience. I calculated that 100mm from hub face to wheel face is about the perfect fitment for my ENR34 sedan.  I've been running 18x8.5s, ET35, with a 1" spacer. So, 8.5in to mm = 216mm. 216/2 = 108mm. 108-35 = 73mm. 73+ 25 (1" to mm) = 98mm.  If you wanna get close to this on dif widths, here are the offsets you'll want: 9" - ET around 15mm 9.5" - ET around 20mm 10" - you're crazy, but ET around 30mm All these should fit perfectly on a non-widebody, non-GTR Skyline. Note that it's probably the absolute max, and you're probably better off running a couple degrees of camber in this config, but it looks great, super flush.
×
×
  • Create New...