Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hello fellow car people! I'm going to collect my first RB26DETT engine on saturday to start my BMW E30M3 NIS///MO project.

The last couple of weeks I have spent hours on hours reading about the engine and what I should take care of first.

To get you up to date I use my car as a sunday car, but I want it to perform well on the track. I don't attend any competitions, I just fancy driving as fast laps as possible. The car it setup with very expencive suspension and brake parts etc. My aim is reliable 400-450hp without doing too much modificaton this winter. What I want to do how ever is to get the oil breating and lubrication sortet first thing first. That include stripping the engine I guess.

I have spent some time in the oil control thread, and have got some of a clue on what is going on. The list that I have come up with on the top of my head I will give you a write up on. I want to install the engine and do all the wiring and hardware work before taking it out again and do the oil job.

So, I have gotten my hands on a 110.000km R32 GTR engine that is late model with pull clutch. This is beeing matet with a R33 GTS-T 5 speed gearbox and converted to push type clutch. This is beeing done by the shop that I'm buying the engine from. Engine is complete swap except AFM's.

So, the list will be:

-N1 oil pump with billett gear

-1mm restrictors (mainly street, but hard when it is on track) Two pcs pr engine?

-2l oil catch tank with two plugs for each rocker cover and two for the sump with filters on top

-Mines or equal rocker cover baffles

-Tomei oilpan baffle kit

-10mm drilling of the oil returns (is that in the block or head? Both?)

-Nitto crank collar

-Fluiddampr

I see it is recommended to expand the sump. If I'm not wrong the sump will be pretty low in the E30, so if I'm going to expand the sump it will need to be to the right or the left. My plan is to use the GTR sump, but remove the excess frontwheel drive stuff that it has on it and plug the holes for the driveshafts.

As far as hp gaining is, I'm building my own 3" exhaust, using stock turbos at first, intercooler will be about the same size as stock Skyline, probably need to make my own suction kit and turbo elbows. What do I need to do with the ECU? Do I need bigger injectors? Adjustable fuelpressure regulator?

So, it anyone have som input to a noob on RB's it would be nice. Or am I totally baked here?

Cheers from Norway!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/450443-newbie-r32-gtr-engine-upgrades-etc/
Share on other sites

I have checked out the N1, the R34's and the Kinugawa TD05H-16G and the TD06SL2-20G, don't know the difference on the latter two.

The TOMEI Arms kit does not fit into the budget. MIght get the Tomei headers though.

There is already a Bosch 044 in line fuel pump in the car by the way.

Edited by SSM

if you hve the motor out i'd be doing the turbo's before putting it in....they are known for spitting the ceramic exhaust wheels down the exhaust pipe.

thats my 2 cents.

I can vouch for this.
post-92069-0-51748500-1395011191_thumb.jpg

If you are going to spend all that kesh on the car. Get new turbos. -7's, -5's, -9's

i can pretty much guarantee you will spit a turbo wheel

i unno crank HP

Mine currently make 320AWKW on 98

In getting E85 so who knows what ill make then. 340-350 around there i think. Maybe higher. Can't find much info on them for E85

I made 313rwkw @ 19psi on my -7s, personally I would look at the TD05-16g

3.5" exhaust aswell

If the motor has a pull clutch then chances are it also has the wider oil drive so no need for the Nitto one, but check it while it's apart

The RB26 only has one oil feed for the head, the rear one is blocked usually, again you won't know for sure till head is off, either way fit the 2 x 1mm restrictors even if it means removing the bung from the back one

An RB30 sump will bolt up to the RB26 block

If you don't plan on running more then 15psi and aren't planning on covering the car in tyre smoke the stock turbos will last a while

yeah man i love my -7's.

Drop straight in too :cheers:

i can't see an answer to your ECU question. Depends on what you want to spend. Apexi PFC will do what you want, you can pick them up for around $600

Or do it properly and buy a haltech for future proof. I'm going through the process of removing my PFC for a haltech currently. Haltech is around $2000

i would get it in a running before f**king with it

stock motor is going to be awesome in a e30

once its running perfect and you have ironed out all the bugs then modify

Yes, that is my plan as well.

The stock motor will be slower then the one I had. That was a 236kw/350nm NA engine.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • An update regarding the registration with the DVLA I sent off the paperwork the day after I collected the car from the port, two weeks later it was all returned with a letter explaining they have rejected the application. This was because the cheque was £20 short for the road tax (I used a price list I found online). Nevermind it is what it is, it was sent back to them the following day with a new cheque. Fast forward another 2 weeks or so, I called them for an update to be told it had been rejected. Yesterday (16th September) I received the documents back along with another letter, this time it was because I didn't put an X in one box on the V750 (personalised number plate certificate), which declared that I had the rights to the personalised number plate. Why this wasn't mentioned in the first rejection letter, I don't know, but it could have saved this headache. The documents were sent back today, so fingers crossed third times a charm and it'll FINALLY be registered on the road just in time for the bad weather (woohoo!) To cheer myself up I lowered the front 25mm, was sick of seeing it sit like a monster truck. No idea how much clearance I'll have getting on and off the driveway, I'll worry about that when I can actually drive it
    • You're going to miss not worrying about rust in the strut towers like the Skyline shitboxes out there
    • A few little updates that weren't filmed due to not taking long to do or not interesting enough for their own video. My new K&N Air Filter arrived, I went with an RU-4180 which matched the dimensions of the universal cone filter the car originally had.  The battery had gone flat, while that was charging I tidied up the spaghetti wiring at the bulk head and down the sides of the engine Next job was to swap the stereo The Kenwood harness had the female ISO plugs cut off and the male ISO plugs cut off the adaptor loom and joined with bullet connectors. I ordered in a repair loom through work and re-did it all. New Kenwood unit installed (Android Auto, DAB, Bluetooth, Reverse Camera) The bonnet/hood gas struts have been poor since collecting the car. I couldn't find any suitable replacements locally so took a chance on a pair from AliExpress.  The originals don't use a retaining clip to secure the cup onto the ball fixture, would explain why I struggled for 10-15mins trying to pry off the cups. The ball fixtures unscrew using a 12mm spanner, new ones are the same size. Sadly no photo of them fitted, you're not missing much lol The dished Momo steering wheel got replaced with my Momo Tuner, turns out I ordered counter sunk bolts for the horn trim ring (like they normally are for the steering wheel) instead of allen cap (flat seat)  A terrible photo of a Quaife style gear shift knob I've had stashed in my tool box for many years after purchasing the incorrect thread size (I can see a pattern emerging with ordering incorrect parts...) Also threw in a cup holder and a (empty) Boss Coffee can, because why not  
    • GT-R clearly the better choice! The 300 is certainly not insaly fast but has a decent amount of poke. Does a nice little drift around the corners with a decent amount of throttle. It's VERY predictable in a slide too.  Feels so progressive! People probably presume there's a 25 year old driving it based on my behaviour this week! 🤣
    • Yeah Jap import. Fairlady Z then! I'm a bit the same.  They've been on my radar for a fair while but then just impulsively decided to buy one!  Was going to just buy an NA and add turbos to it later but decided to save the f'ing around and just buy the turbo version. 
×
×
  • Create New...