sneakey pete Posted November 9, 2014 Share Posted November 9, 2014 Hi Guys, I've got r32 GTR, i've bought it with HKS coil-overs and a Nismo front sway bar installed as the only things done to the suspension, the bushings etc are all unknowns, probably 20 years old. The car is my primary car but isn't my daily due to my work, and it gets used for lots driving out of town, and will be used for occasional track days, nothing serious though. I've decided to redo all of the suspension bushings and install the basic set of adjustable arms, as this will probably suit my needs well enough, budget isn't the #1 issue here luckily so no having to make do with camber bushings etc. Anyway, i've pieced together a list of parts but i'd like some feedback on it, to make sure i've made good choices and to also make sure that i've not made any glaring mistakes (eg getting incompatible GTS-T parts) or missed something entirely (something on the front uprights?). Without further ado this is my entire parts list: Arms Front Camber http://www.hard-race.com.au/index.php?route=product/product&path=25_714_722&product_id=238 Front Castor http://www.hard-race.com.au/index.php?route=product/product&path=25_714_722&product_id=845 Rear Camber http://www.hard-race.com.au/index.php?route=product/product&path=25_714_722&product_id=185 Rear traction rods http://www.hard-race.com.au/index.php?route=product/product&path=25_714_722&product_id=183 Swaybars 22fr 24rear whiteline nismo 22mm front already in leave there do rear only? http://whiteline.com.au/product_detail4.php?part_number=BNK009 Bushes/ball joints Rear subframe bushes http://www.hard-race.com.au/index.php?route=product/product&path=25_30_622&product_id=486 diff supports, whiteline fr rear Verify diff mouting type Front LCA inner Stock lower innner ball joint http://www.kudosmotorsports.com/catalog/genuine-nissan-pitwork-ball-joint-front-lower-inner-genuine-nissan-nissan-skyline-r32-gtr-gts4-r33-gtr-gts4-r34-25gt4-p-280.html Front LCA outer Stock lower outer ball joint http://www.kudosmotorsports.com/catalog/genuine-nissan-pitwork-ball-joint-front-lower-outer-genuine-nissan-nissan-skyline-r32-gtr-gts4-r33-gtr-gts4-r34-gtr-25gt4-p-106.html Steering rack Poly bushes. Get stock rubber ones? http://www.kudosmotorsports.com/catalog/superpro-parts-steering-rack-bush-kit-superpro-nissan-skyline-r32-gtr-gts4-r33-gtr-gts-gts25-gts25t-gts4-p-1242.html steering rod ends/ball joints? only thing required for steering rods? http://www.kudosmotorsports.com/catalog/genuine-nissan-pitwork-outer-tie-rod-end-front-nissan-300zx-z32-071989-021996-skyline-r32-gtr-gts4-p-1259.html Rear LCA inner Poly. Rubber probably better for road use? http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Nissan-Skyline-1989-1994-R-Control-Arm-Lower-Inner-Bushing-SuperPro-SPF1639K-/190916552502?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item2c73836736 Rear LCA outer stock ball joint http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/2-REAR-LOWER-BALL-JOINT-NISSAN-SKYLINE-R32-90-94-/190649239948?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item2c6394898c Outer Camber arm/UCA+Outer Traction rod same as camber arm, can use other pair for that? http://whiteline.com.au/product_detail4.php?part_number=W62546 other Front wheel bearings Decent brand? http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/TWO-REAR-WHEEL-BEARING-KIT-NISSAN-SKYLINE-R32-GTS-R32-GTR-4WD-R33-GTS-4432-/191386267395?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item2c8f82af03 Rear wheel bearings Decent brand? http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/2-FRONT-WHEEL-BEARING-KIT-NISSAN-SKYLINE-GTR-4WD-R32-91-93-R33-R34-95-01-4574-/201004989682?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item2eccd4bcf2 Hicas delete kit http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/HICAS-ELIMINATOR-LOCK-BAR-KIT-R32-R33-R34-SKYLINE-GTR-GTST-GTT-S15-180SX-/301363010419?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item462aa29b73 Secondly, i'm having a hard time deciding on sway bars. A few options, go the White-line drop in kit which has adjustment so i can mess around and dial it in, go a Cusco non adjustable kit and hope it works, or leave the nismo front in and get a new rear only. Honestly i'm not really sure what to do. I don't know the spring or damper rates of the coil-overs either, which would factor into the choice (stiffer springs means stiff sway-bars as far as I know) Thirdly, is there anything else i should be looking out for when I eventually do the work, apart from the obvious like bent LCA's etc. Any advice or wisdom would be appreciated. Link to comment https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/450525-bushing-replacement-sanity-check/ Share on other sites More sharing options...
GTSBoy Posted November 9, 2014 Share Posted November 9, 2014 (edited) I would never trust any of those nasty looking I shaped adjustable front arms. There are others out there for >$500 which look stronger. I had thought that UAS used to do some good ones, but they appear to only have I shaped ones too. One thing they do have going for them is that they pivot in the centre section, meaning that the horrible loads that get put into R32/Z32 upper arm bushes is relaxed. Much more $$ though. Your front caster arms will do, but I'd go for the ball ended ones. Much better (even if not legal, or as long lasting, they are so much worth it). Rear arms are the right choices. Do 24mm adjustable bars front and rear. Poly bushes are fine everywhere that there is rubber. Extra noise and harshness not a big problem. Note that you won't need them where you are replacing arms (the upper rears and radius arms in particular). There is a recent thread on poly rack mounts. HICAS eliminator is 100x better than a normal lockbar. Do it. Edited November 9, 2014 by GTSBoy Link to comment https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/450525-bushing-replacement-sanity-check/#findComment-7422634 Share on other sites More sharing options...
niZmO_Man Posted November 9, 2014 Share Posted November 9, 2014 I got the SRI red ones from Just Jap, been in the car for two years now. I can't compare to standard because my car came with aftermarket arms with destroyed bushes. BUT, the arms have been fine. I have those Hard race ones sitting in the garage, they look better built than the red SRI ones. Link to comment https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/450525-bushing-replacement-sanity-check/#findComment-7422670 Share on other sites More sharing options...
sneakey pete Posted November 10, 2014 Author Share Posted November 10, 2014 I would never trust any of those nasty looking I shaped adjustable front arms. There are others out there for >$500 which look stronger. I had thought that UAS used to do some good ones, but they appear to only have I shaped ones too. One thing they do have going for them is that they pivot in the centre section, meaning that the horrible loads that get put into R32/Z32 upper arm bushes is relaxed. Much more $$ though. Your front caster arms will do, but I'd go for the ball ended ones. Much better (even if not legal, or as long lasting, they are so much worth it). Rear arms are the right choices. Do 24mm adjustable bars front and rear. Poly bushes are fine everywhere that there is rubber. Extra noise and harshness not a big problem. Note that you won't need them where you are replacing arms (the upper rears and radius arms in particular). There is a recent thread on poly rack mounts. HICAS eliminator is 100x better than a normal lockbar. Do it. Thanks for the feedback Re front castor arms, you mean these? How exactly are they better/different? Whiteline doesn't do a 24mm front for ze GTR. Will weigh up options once i know my spring rates When you say better, you mean more firmness, feed back etc, but probably a little more harshness/noise? I guess i should just Man up and deal with it... Just noted the thread on poly rack mounts, that solves that. Link to comment https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/450525-bushing-replacement-sanity-check/#findComment-7423207 Share on other sites More sharing options...
niZmO_Man Posted November 10, 2014 Share Posted November 10, 2014 The mount point (the bushes) have pretty much zero 'play', keeping the caster in check. Link to comment https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/450525-bushing-replacement-sanity-check/#findComment-7423237 Share on other sites More sharing options...
GTSBoy Posted November 10, 2014 Share Posted November 10, 2014 wot he sed Link to comment https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/450525-bushing-replacement-sanity-check/#findComment-7423239 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Duncan Posted November 11, 2014 Share Posted November 11, 2014 expensive list, eh? but you will love how much better it feels once it is back to factory tightness or better. If you want to tighten up everything you also need: ball joints for the rear steering arms at the rear hubs. They flow out and leave the rear end unstable Inner and outer rod ends for rear steering (still need them in good condition with HICAS lock kit) inner rod ends for the front steering Link to comment https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/450525-bushing-replacement-sanity-check/#findComment-7423889 Share on other sites More sharing options...
GTSBoy Posted November 11, 2014 Share Posted November 11, 2014 Inner and outer rod ends for rear steering (still need them in good condition with HICAS lock kit) Not true for the HICAS eliminators. Replaces the whole lot. Link to comment https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/450525-bushing-replacement-sanity-check/#findComment-7423923 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Duncan Posted November 11, 2014 Share Posted November 11, 2014 Interesting, I'd only seen the separate lock bars before. Does it also remove the ball joint at the hub? Link to comment https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/450525-bushing-replacement-sanity-check/#findComment-7423940 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sick_R31 Posted November 11, 2014 Share Posted November 11, 2014 It replaces the ball joint with a urethane bush Link to comment https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/450525-bushing-replacement-sanity-check/#findComment-7423980 Share on other sites More sharing options...
sneakey pete Posted November 13, 2014 Author Share Posted November 13, 2014 expensive list, eh? but you will love how much better it feels once it is back to factory tightness or better. inner rod ends for the front steering The car handles a little worse than my old GTS-T, and boatloads of extra power can only make up for so much, so i'll be glad once its all sorted. Got any details on the inner rod ends, all I could find was rear ones? Link to comment https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/450525-bushing-replacement-sanity-check/#findComment-7425168 Share on other sites More sharing options...
GTSBoy Posted November 13, 2014 Share Posted November 13, 2014 Inner tie rod ends better known as rack ends. Link to comment https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/450525-bushing-replacement-sanity-check/#findComment-7425177 Share on other sites More sharing options...
sneakey pete Posted November 18, 2014 Author Share Posted November 18, 2014 Only ones I can find are Taiwan spec. link As its just a straight bit of metal with a ball joint on the end... how bad can it be...? Should I go down to Nissan parts and get genuine ones, or is there another better option? Link to comment https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/450525-bushing-replacement-sanity-check/#findComment-7427825 Share on other sites More sharing options...
chiksluvit Posted November 18, 2014 Share Posted November 18, 2014 I've always used them, in current and previous cars. No complaints so far Link to comment https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/450525-bushing-replacement-sanity-check/#findComment-7427869 Share on other sites More sharing options...
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