Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey I'm new to sau, bought a series 2 R33 Gts-t and I'm wanting to high flow my factory turbo, I've looked through a whole bunch of threads but haven't really found any specific measurements for the diameter of the compressor wheel. I'm fairly sure the stock wheel is 49mm and I'm wondering how much bigger of a wheel can the housing fit? Also I'm unsure of the total height of it, if that makes a difference? Thanks heaps

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/450722-high-flowing-turbos/
Share on other sites

I got a turbo highflowed by GCG about 6 years ago for nearly $2k.

Would choose Hypergear today (if I were in Aus - actually have a top turbo man locally) - continuous development, better prices, feedback.

What are your:

a) Goals (ie just a bit more top end power, whilst retaining some low RPM response)

b) Existing supporting mods

c) Budget

Goals power wise I'm looking for some 250+kW at the wheels.

Supporting mods, nothing at the present time apart from 3" cat back exhaust, pod filter, adjustable boost controller. However I do plan on buying splitfire coil packs and new spark plugs. As well as a new ECU, thinking of tuning it to run E85 but since I'm in canberra there's not many places to get it so I'll need it to be able to read both ethanol and octane.

Budget is around 2-3k willing to spend more, just need more time to save the money.

they are two of the main companies well known in skyline community which provides high flow service

there used to be a few more some years back, but they are either out of business or just stopped doing them

there's also precision turbo in Wetherill park NSW that does high flow as well. Having used high flow turbos from all three companies I personally prefer hypergear if you're chasing power on a budget, precision is also good as well but they do cost a little more for their ball bearing high flow, which gives a good balance between power and response,

good thing about hypergear is they are constantly R&D to improve their products like what GTSBoy said, their latest highflow design is a more competitive product than the GCG high flow I think

Goals power wise I'm looking for some 250+kW at the wheels.

Supporting mods, nothing at the present time apart from 3" cat back exhaust, pod filter, adjustable boost controller. However I do plan on buying splitfire coil packs and new spark plugs. As well as a new ECU, thinking of tuning it to run E85 but since I'm in canberra there's not many places to get it so I'll need it to be able to read both ethanol and octane.

Budget is around 2-3k willing to spend more, just need more time to save the money.

If you're replacing the turbo yourself, set aside around $1k for a turbo. The standard r33 high-flow from hypergear is a fairly proven item. I use one as well. Keep in mind you'll probably spend a few hundred more on gaskets and a new set manifold studs and nut kit. (might as well fix the manifold while the turbo is off)

Is your vehicle supported by nistune? If not then you are looking at an aftermarket flex-fuel capable ecu. The cheapest would be an adaptronic e440d. Even if you get that at a good price, with the accessories (air temp sensor, ethanol sensor, loom) you wont have any change from $1.5k

Then factor in +$1k for a GOOD tune, where the tuner has paid attention to partial throttle drivability and fuel consumption. That would be a single tune on one fuel, that wouldn't be a flex tune with runs on 98 & e85.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • There's a huge reason manufacturers are tuning in dead flat torque curves... Make them reliable (and more drive able)
    • What HVAC actuator is under the steering wheel? Do you mean on the RHS of the centre console, immediately to the left of your shin? If so, then yes, it is probably that one, because that is the mode door actuator, and from what I know, it's still a pain in the arse to replace. I don't know about whole dash out, but you certainly have to rip into the centre console section. I don't know if it's covered in the workshop manual, as I haven't spent much time looking at those parts of it. (and by "the workshop manual, I mean the R32 GTR one, which is the most comprehensive one we have, and it should be similar enough between that and later cars to serve as a guide).
    • ...oops. forgot the TCU end...
    • No I got mine from a friend that had fabricated one … but I had to fit it to my setup which was a hks turbo setup. His was a Garrett -7. So one of my turbos was not a flange for one side … then I had a leak in the welds I had to find a weld shut … in the end the setup was decent priced but I spent a lot to get it fitted. A couple companies I checked would make it but you’re talking 7-9k aud with titanium. No joke mine was 6-7k even second hand after I had to fit it in Hong Kong … labour is expensive here. 
    • I'd just like to restate that I don't think anyone here is actually hating I recently sold a car part to a guy who was building a forged auto R34, with MV stall and aiming at ~450kw. I told him that I'm him, from the future and to stop after it explodes once. I told him I knew he won't listen the first time, and that's fine. But if my predictions do come true - Change direction faster than I did. I also said it's probably no coincidence that the dyno plot of a reliable turbo engine starts to look a lot like a N/A motor. :p
×
×
  • Create New...