Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi Guys,

Seeing as when I run into a starting problem I try to get some info first, I thought I would post how I solved my no start issue for my R33 S2.

The car is great, best I have had as it rarely runs into trouble and if it does it is usually responsive to the first thing I do I love her!

Anyway, yesterday I got some fuel and went for a little drive. I turned the car off to run into the shop and when I tried to start her it was a slow start and died pretty much as the engine started. I tried a couple more times and would only keep cranking & cranking. Battery was good, got no codes from ECU, heard fuel pump prime and relay click etc. I was worried maybe fuel pump as I didn't really smell much fuel considering the cranking but that didn't end up being the case.

Narrowed it down to CAS or AFM. I had a spare CAS so I unplugged mine and undid the three bolts and removed it taking note as best as I could of the bolt position. I put the spare CAS in and it seemed to fit easier and was easier to turn and adjust. Guessed the correct position, tightened bolts and plugged in and she started first go! I was having the occasional slow start which I have put down to being the CAS now as well. For the first minute it sounded like it had a slight miss but after a run that was gone and it sounds so much better than before and starts great. I also gave my AFM a clean just in case which helped also.

Anyway, I hope this helps someone!

Here is a pic of her with her new wheels.

Emily

photo4_zps7997ff36.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/450769-no-start-no-problem/
Share on other sites

Good point- on start up only when it has been sitting over night it will start and sort of feels like it is going to die, i don't put any throttle on and it picks up on it's own like jumps straight up to 1500rpm. Worth checking cold start valve? Want to take a look at that and clean my AAC valve :)

  • Like 1

Omg after all that it was actually the fuel pump!! It broke down again haha. I was suspicious of the lack of fuel smell after cranking so decided to listen out for it priming but only the relay would click.

It was obv a fluke starting last time but I did chuck some fuel in it and banged around in the boot. I used a rubber mallet the second time around and hit near fuel pump and tank and it started!

Maybe check out your fuel pump as could be the reason you are having rough starts also. Hope this helps!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • As you're looking at using a Link ECU, then large injectors are not a problem. But there's not really any need to go 1000s on an RB20 unless you're planning >>600HP on E85, which would seem unlikely. There are other options for injectors. The Xspurt ones are available from a number of places and you can get them in the mid 600s and 725cc, which is probably a sensible place to be. These are all EV14 based. If you are not using the stock AFM (at all, which would be the case with a Link) then a large turbo intake pipe to suit the ATR turbos is not an obstacle, so you should use one instead of a highflow. Results will be better.
    • Hey guys,  I'm after some advice and this here is the best place to get it imo. I was a member a looong time ago under another account, with a lost email address. Its nice to jump back on and see some of the same names still giving good advice.  I mothballed my car when i moved to perth in 2013, and after getting towed across the nullabor a few times it has officially done more km's on a trailer than under its own power. Now that i have started the process of tidying up and modifying it, i see the fruit available (and the fruiterers selling the produce) is different than back in the day. hence my questions, as i used to 'know' what to get and now, i'm not so sure. Engine wise the car (92 gtst) has a walbro 255, k+n, fmic, cam gears and and turbo back 3"exhaust. Wish list is a Hypergear high flow or ATR43G1, Link G4x and some newer injectors before a tune up. My goals are modest, only low 200's power wise. i know i could achieve this with less, but i've been swapping out old for new where i can. Every cooling hose has been replaced, along with mani gaskets, WP, thermostat and radiator, fuel pump and timing belt, tensioner and idler, and i rebuilt the steering rack. Regarding the injectors, the fruiterers all seem to sell what used to be considered quite large injectors. There are a lot of options for bosch 1000cc EV14's, and i would like to know if that is a suitable choice for my build. Is modern injector design good enough to run these at the low duty cycles that i likely would be? is there a downside to running a too large injector these days? or, would there be an upside to running a smaller injector at higher duty cycle? I can see that there are smaller injectors still available, but the ones i have seen specifically marketed for RB's are pretty large (see: https://golebysparts.au/collections/fuel-rail-injector-kits/products/nissan-rb20-fuel-rail-bosch-980cc-1150cc-injectors-turbosmart-fpr800-regulator-kit), and i dont know enough about them to say one not marketed for RB's would fit or not. I have searched the forums, and amongst all the posts on older tech, I did see gtsboy recommend EV14's, but no size was mentioned... again, i'm not clear on if the smaller size bosch injectors are also EV14's as they do look similar.  also, if someone can recommend a tuner familiar with RB's in the Geelong or West Melbourne area i'd appreciate it. Thanks in advance guys. Cheers, Rowdy  
    • FWIW the depth of the groove in the rubber pad is not super essential, the blocks are rubber and squish a bit. If you are worried an angle grinder will make a deeper groove quick smart
    • I mean, if you were to move the jacking points away from the original location, that is, away from the wheels and closer to the centreline of the car, then it will be more likely to overbalance and tip off the supports. Same as we talked about before. I was talking about moving for-aft. If the sill is bent outward or inward, then the car would obviously look unstraight from the outside. Hopefully that hasn't happened either. Again, you can do comparative measurements from the chassis rails to see if there is much deflection.
    • Can you elaborate what you mean with your first sentence? I meant move as in the bulge kinda seemed like it got pulled "outward" meaning it got pulled down and to the side with the jacking rail itself, so the load bearing bulge now sits lower than usual and is not level with the sill on the other side of the jack point. Either that or the jacking rail just got pushed in a good bit.
×
×
  • Create New...