Jump to content
SAU Community

No Start? No Problem!

Emrarrr

By Emrarrr,
in General Maintenance

 Share

Recommended Posts

Emrarrr Enthusiast

Emrarrr

Posted
Posted

Hi Guys,

Seeing as when I run into a starting problem I try to get some info first, I thought I would post how I solved my no start issue for my R33 S2.

The car is great, best I have had as it rarely runs into trouble and if it does it is usually responsive to the first thing I do I love her!

Anyway, yesterday I got some fuel and went for a little drive. I turned the car off to run into the shop and when I tried to start her it was a slow start and died pretty much as the engine started. I tried a couple more times and would only keep cranking & cranking. Battery was good, got no codes from ECU, heard fuel pump prime and relay click etc. I was worried maybe fuel pump as I didn't really smell much fuel considering the cranking but that didn't end up being the case.

Narrowed it down to CAS or AFM. I had a spare CAS so I unplugged mine and undid the three bolts and removed it taking note as best as I could of the bolt position. I put the spare CAS in and it seemed to fit easier and was easier to turn and adjust. Guessed the correct position, tightened bolts and plugged in and she started first go! I was having the occasional slow start which I have put down to being the CAS now as well. For the first minute it sounded like it had a slight miss but after a run that was gone and it sounds so much better than before and starts great. I also gave my AFM a clean just in case which helped also.

Anyway, I hope this helps someone!

Here is a pic of her with her new wheels.

Emily

photo4_zps7997ff36.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/450769-no-start-no-problem/
Share on other sites
Emrarrr Enthusiast

Emrarrr

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Good point- on start up only when it has been sitting over night it will start and sort of feels like it is going to die, i don't put any throttle on and it picks up on it's own like jumps straight up to 1500rpm. Worth checking cold start valve? Want to take a look at that and clean my AAC valve :)

  • Like 1
Emrarrr Enthusiast

Emrarrr

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Omg after all that it was actually the fuel pump!! It broke down again haha. I was suspicious of the lack of fuel smell after cranking so decided to listen out for it priming but only the relay would click.

It was obv a fluke starting last time but I did chuck some fuel in it and banged around in the boot. I used a rubber mallet the second time around and hit near fuel pump and tank and it started!

Maybe check out your fuel pump as could be the reason you are having rough starts also. Hope this helps!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The Bogan
      Skid pans in/around Sydney?

      By The Bogan · Posted

      Dragging some reo behind a ute or trailer will smooth out a dirt road, I've used reo a few times to do unsealed road maintenance when we didn't have any plant available  It's best done when the dirt is wet though, and then you just let it dry out for a day to harden up For wetting the dirt I've used some 44 gal drums in a ute or trailer, and a water pump connected to a hose with a old sprinkler tied to the reo to wet the material down whilst spreading Basically just drive slowly up and down the road a few times dragging a few sheets of reo wired together with the sprinkler wetting it all down as you go
    • The Bogan
      Skid pans in/around Sydney?

      By The Bogan · Posted

      I did a motokhana years ago with ??Sydney Sporting Car Club???, it was on a grassy paddock and was heaps of fun, I think it was north west Sydney IIRC The old R33 boat was covered in grass and dirt, but nothing that a good wash and detail didn't fix And thinking back, when SAU did the airstrip run in Goulburn years ago, where the old 33 won highest RWD MPH, the quickest RWD ET on the airstrip, and best paint IIRC (before the runs down the airstrip) the damage to the rear quarters from stones flicking up required them the get a respray  I would definitely do a grass motokhana again in the MX5 Who knows someone that owns a farm with a big empty paddock  Liability these days is a big issue though
    • Trilbyte
      RB25 S2 Idles but doesn't want to rev

      By Trilbyte · Posted

      No intention of driving the car the way it's set up now, just wanting to make sure I haven't made any mistakes along the way so that the tune can go smoothly, I don't want to waste anyone's time with stupid issues. And of course I intend to get it towed to the dyno in a completed state 😅 I have the base fuel pressure with the vacuum disconnected set at about 40psi, which I believe is at least relatively close to stock fuel pressure, maybe I'll have a fiddle with the reg and see what happens. For all I know I could be wasting my time with this and I should just plumb it in and see what the tuner reckons. I just find it a bit strange that it seems to be under so much load just free revving, but maybe that's just a result of the turbo slowing down the exhaust gasses and making a restriction in the flow, with no boost to compensate.
    • The Bogan
      MLR's Bogan cruise ship

      By The Bogan · Posted

      The boy just hit up google translate and it worked a treat, he said step one was "please urinate with precision and elegance", he then sent me the correct translation  I get some new loctite for the small fixtures tomorrow and get some "dort" going after that 🤣
    • Kinkstaah
      RB25 S2 Idles but doesn't want to rev

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      Right, so is the fuel pressure the same as it was previously? If not, well, it's not going to work well. I can understand the theory I assume you are going for, which is: "Run it N/A, and if I have the original AFM, and same amount of fuel and intake air as previously, the fact there's a turbo in my exhaust should still make it run" Which it... might? Provided you don't actually change how much air or fuel is going into the car.. or getting out. But if you have changed that, all bets are off. What is the purpose to even have the car run this way? To get it to a tuner? And if the goal is to limp it to a tuner, you're still going to what - plumb up a whole intercooler system and new intake in the parking lot out front before your tune......?
×
×
  • Create New...