Oil Accumulator Or Extended Sump?

[Simon-S14]

dash12 is fine.

yeah you can run larger if you like.

[MJTru]

12. Damn. Thats big mate. My oil cooler and relocation kit is dash 10. Would 10 be fine.

[NismoSTune]

I run an accusump (canton 3 qt), tomei oil pump and rips oil pan. I feel as though the accusump was a wasted $600 kit as if I have a problem now it would have to be catastrophic and the accusump wouldn't matter after it's empty, it would still fail. The other down side is my oil capacity is near 13L so it gets expensive when running oils like motul...

[GTRPSI]

The idea is more to cover for those times when your high G forcing or had a extended high rpm run where oil may have temporaraly pooled in the head and your pickup is exposed.

Once you have lost all oil in the sump or oil pressure for a extended time your screwed regardless, its just a startup and momentary loss of oil pressure backup.

Dont plan on driving with no oil and just a accusump.......

[MJTru]

Ok here what I want to know bring this back to life.

I just got my accusump. But how do I know what discharge pressure I need I have a tomie oil pump on my rb26. At idle warm im at 40psi. I have a choice of 20 to 25 discharge valve as well as 35 to 40 and 55 to 60. Im lost to as which one to get.

Edited March 13, 2015 by MJTru

[MJTru]

Seller wants to know asap. Help

[KiwiRS4T]

I don't know what the discharge pressure is. Fellow Kiwi is running one on his R33 GTR and the gauge reads 80 psi

If you google

"Accusump Oil Accumulator Operation" (I can't paste links on here for some reason) you will see a Youtube demo of his system.

[MJTru]

Hmmm. Nice video. But not clear on what discharge value to go wit.

[Dobz]

I would think as a minimum you'd want the warm idle pressure as the accumulator discharge pressure.

[Greekos]

accusump cheap insurance, to pick a discharge valve, im pretty sure it is a case of getting the highest one that is closest to your hot idle pressure, but i would make sure pressure reading is done with a accurate gauge

[GTRPSI]

Either 35 to 40 or 55 to 60 depending on where you want it to kick in.

The idea is you are selecting the discharge point or trigger point.

It will fill itself at oil pressures above the selected valve and discharge into your oiling system at pressures below the selected valve.

So say your doing track work at high RPM, you have a healthy oil pressure and need a highish oil pressure to be maintained, you select the 55 to 60 PSI valve.

Just normal street driving on a built engine, go 35 to 40 as your protecting the 3000-4000 RPM band (10 Psi per 1000Rpm oil pressure rule)

A stock engine kept at low reves, go the smallest pressure, something like a FG Turbo that does 2500 RPM while driving around town (not thrashed) would be best at that setting.

Whichever value you select, remember it will not refill the accumulator till your normal pressure returns till over the selected value so no refilling until there is excess oil pressure avaliable again for the engine to pump back into it.

Edit; just to make things a little clearer, a 20-25 valve on a high RPM engine is a little pointless as your spinning at say 6000+ RPM, you need highish oil pressure protection and the valve kicks in at 20-25 PSI, at which time its not enough oil pressure anyway.

Just as a 55-60 valve would be on a low RPM engine, at say 2500 PRM you may only have 30 PSI genrated by your engine, the accumulators valve would always be open and the unit would be constantly draining itself as its seeing low oil pressure constanly, it would refill till you reved it to build up pressure and straight away redrain itself at normal lowish oil pressure driving speeds.

My choice would be the 55-60 when racing, 35-40 for a built engine on the street, 25-30 for a stock motor thats not revved.

Think of the oil pressure valve selection as the RPM band your trying to protect if you have 10 Psi per 1000 RPM oil pressure rule setup on your engine.

In the case of most RB engines, your oil pressure issue (lack of it) will be a highish RPMs when the oil is up in the head and the sump is drained or at high G force loadings at medium RPMs while cornering if doing track work with sticky rubber.

Ideal RBs would be best protected at either high RPM's or Mid point RPM's depending on how you use the car, very few people try to protect a RB running around at low RPM's. if somethings going to go wrong its when your having a bit of fun and having fun means either mid or high RPM's (and therefore oil pressure)

So say your drag racing and are worried about lack of oil at High RPM, go the largest valve as you need all the oil pressure you can get when you starve of oil.

Track cornering at mid RPMs where the oil may move to the side under high G loadings and uncover the pickup, or normal "bit of fun" street driving RPM's go the middle one.

Daily driver thats never revved or loaded with strain go the lowest valve.

I hope that sort of explains it and does not confuse you.....dont forget if your engines not making 55 PSI hot when Revved, it will never fill/pressurize the accumulator and hold the oil if you have selected the 55 PSI valve.

I will be also using one, im going for the largest valve, direction of the build is Drag and im more worried about protection when its up in the RPM band when oil may tend to pool in the head or be forced back under high G force loadings of launch and gear changes.

Edited March 13, 2015 by GTRPSI

[MJTru]

Well said mate well siad. I change and went with the 55 to 60 psi one. As the car will see high rpms. And only intended for drag.

So if I may. At low idle the accumulator will not work basically only at high rpms will it build its internal pressure. I have a racefab extended oil pan as well as run an oil cooler. At around 4k I have over 100 psi of pressure but at idle when hot its around 40.

Is there any link to as what line size should be and in my drawings I went with a 10an line. I would also like to know the first time filling procedure and where do I tee it in on my oil system.

[GTRPSI]

At idle, the accumlator will drain, anything under 55psi and it will feed into your engine and then go to the sump.

Once the revs pick up and oil pressure rises to over 55 it will refill the accumulator.

Point being its looking to protect the engine when oil pressure drops below 55 psi, regardless of RPM.

So dont forget to overfill your oil as what needs to fill the accumulator will get pulled out of the sump and drop your oil level when your over 55 psi.

Many people dont realize that part......

[MJTru]

Thats funny cause I was just going over that part in my head. Its funny you just mensioned that. Cause if you were following my gts4 post. I had the same problem when it came to the right oil level in the moded sump. I was told to use the same oil level mark on the dip stick. So after crashing the car and damaging the oil pan I ordered another. This time I figured out two things. First the oil level was changed based on quantity vs. The oem level mark inorder to carry more oil to factory level mark. Next was if you install the pan on a engine stand you should lift the pan to the block rather than dropping it on and having the block upside down. And installing the pan. For those of you that uses a racefab oil pan if its done wrong. (Having the block upide down and dropping the pan on the block that way) the trap doors are held open and never close by the oil pick up. So its best to leave the blick right side up and lift the oil pan to the block. Hmmm. I wounder this after it was done the first time. Second was after I used water outside as a mock up the level on the dip stick changed. Or it would just have a lower level. I used a oil level with the stock oil pan as a reference. Im actually still confused to that finding. Which comes to this point. If im wrong then ill have more oil and using that level will work for my accumulator level Mesurments. Thanks for that reminder mate.

Edited March 14, 2015 by MJTru

[GTRPSI]

Yeh, trap doored sumps must be fitted from under with the block the right way around.

Bet you quite a few people have fitted them with the block upside down and had the doors stick open on the pickup.... and probably never known it was like that the whole time.

[MJTru]

Yep im one of them. -_-

And GTRPSI any good photos of that gtr in your profile photo. ??

[GTRPSI]

Now you made me put the die grinder down and take some pics of today...first day i got back into it in months....

As she sits tonight....(thats a RB30 bottom end next to her)

Todays job is a couple of heads to be done (and the next few week ends as i get time)

Exhaust port Before....

Exhaust port 80% there...(pics not dead square to the port)

Edited March 14, 2015 by GTRPSI

[MJTru]

Hmmm. Very nice I see you removed the humps as well. its nice to see an rb30 bottom end with the 4wd oil pan still there.

I would have done one long time ago but it seems hard to find parts for them here vs a 26. Just getting a block is tough. The car looks good mate. And seems like you have it under control looking at the pics. Who makes that extend sump.???

Sorry guys we may have strayed off topic a bit here. But I am asking about the sump:D and I take it that you also running an accumulator. If so do you mind showing me how you tied it into your oil system. Thanks mate.

[GTRPSI]

Everythings in bits now.

Sump is the cast Hi Octane 8.5-9L extension.

http://www.hioctanedirect.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=67_74&products_id=1193

2 breathers on the diff side.

Tomei oil pump.

Some vauge pics of whats been done.... http://www.sau.com.au/forums/gallery/album/5537-engine-build/

[MJTru]

At idle, the accumlator will drain, anything under 55psi and it will feed into your engine and then go to the sump.

Once the revs pick up and oil pressure rises to over 55 it will refill the accumulator.

Point being its looking to protect the engine when oil pressure drops below 55 psi, regardless of RPM.

So dont forget to overfill your oil as what needs to fill the accumulator will get pulled out of the sump and drop your oil level when your over 55 psi.

Many people dont realize that part......

I was thinking today, what stops me from running two accumulators one for low rpm protection and one for high rpm protection. This is possible????? In my head it is.