Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

The main difference between a v-spec and a non v-spec is the ATTESA systems used. The v-spec uses an ATTESA pro system which has a higher rate (about 10 times as fast) of checking the wheels for slippage and thus transferring power to the front. It also has a active differential for left to right power transfer. From most articles I have come across (and from driving the two myself), not many people can actually tell the difference in driving the two. The v-spec was (is) considered the top of the range, however the the physical driving differences are minimal.

I suggest if you want to find the best BCNR33 you can... look here

http://www.zele-international.com/search_33.html

*HINT: click on the yellow boxes*

Personally I would get a non-V-Spec I think stock it is a better road car for Australia with the extra ground clearance.

He was looking at an R33 not R32 GT-R...

I suggest if you want to find the best BCNR33 you can... look here

http://www.zele-international.com/search_33.html

*HINT: click on the yellow boxes*

Personally I would get a non-V-Spec so you can switch it into RWD mode (I have done it, I know you can do it, so don't question me!) and I think stock it is a better road car for Australia with the extra ground clearance.

How do you switch your r33 gtr to 2wd mode?

He was looking at an R33 not R32 GT-R..

I've seen r33 gt-r's without brembo calipers, and every gt-r ive seen with the extra lip was a v spec.......if im wrong, im wrong.

Im just going by what i know to be correct at the time.

How do you switch your r33 gtr to 2wd mode?
 

DEAR HPI,

I have just brought an R33 GT-R VSpec. Do you know how to install a switch to make it RWD, so i can toggle between the two settings for dynos and burnouts at the drags? By fitting the switch can it cause any damage to the box or the computer system?

Brad

It is not a good idea to try and trick the ATTESSA system on the R33 Series of cars. On this model, even with the system disabled, there is still residual hydraulic clutch pressure in the transfer case, which will cause massive slip if the car is placed on a dyno. Result? A stuffed transfer case.

Hope this helps.

How do you switch your r33 gtr to 2wd mode?

You can make a R33 GTR RWD by removing the front shaft from the transfer case hence stopping all power going to the front wheels.

That's how we tune my car on a 2WD dyno anyway....

On the strip we use the HKS ETC to cut power to the fronts for burnouts.

You can make a R33 GTR RWD by removing the front shaft from the transfer case hence stopping all power going to the front wheels.

That's how we tune my car on a 2WD dyno anyway....

On the strip we use the HKS ETC to cut power to the fronts for burnouts.

Speaking of which............. :cheers:

You can make a R33 GTR RWD by removing the front shaft from the transfer case hence stopping all power going to the front wheels.

That's how we tune my car on a 2WD dyno anyway....

On the strip we use the HKS ETC to cut power to the fronts for burnouts.

Thanks leewah, i also remove the front propeller shaft. From Gojira's post he implies that a non vspec can be "switched" to 2wd. Removing the front shaft would be the same excercise whether vspec or not.

Yes that is what I mean, but again with the caveat that sock mentions...

Fixing that problem is simply a matter of cracking open a valve to relieve the pressure.

But you need to get under the car for that.

For just being an RWD idiot for a while the fuses are fine on their own but any situation where the front wheels will be static is a problem... Anyway, I apologise to the thread starter for mentioning this, I knew I shouldn't have

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • You shouldn't need to massively fatten up the mixtures for cold conditions. For one thing - 0°C is not that cold. For another, the Haltech will be using the IAT sensor to tell it how dense the air air, and calculate the correct amount of fuelling. Then the cold start enrichment is added as a % on top of that, so it should scale with the main fuelling. You might also doubt the IAT sensor at this time. You're not using one from an RB26 are you? Using a nice Bosch sensor or similar? Happens. Some wideband units take great pleasure in killing their sensors. Put another wideband in the tailpipe and compare. Or just swap the sensor to a brand new one and see.
    • Oh, my misunderstand. When the car was running, it sounded ok, but if I gave it any gas it wanted to die but caught itself afterwards. It's very different from how it was a couple months ago when it was warmer outside. The logs show that the AFRs are better during, what I assume, is warmup enrichment. Because it's cold, and air is more dense, should I work on the enrichment bit?
    • yess of course im not using 2nd hand parts from my spare engine, but the place where i live is hard to find parts for the RB20DET ,but for the RB20E is everywhere including new ones and a lot cheaper ,because for the RB20DET you have to order it overseas to get one and it cost a lot of money 3x the price to be exact. so i ask this topic because if i can use the new ones but for RB20E is it compatible or not. if not im screwed haha, not totally screwed but i have to save a lot of money first before i can begin repairing my engine, thanks for the information before.
    • Unless my sensor just died, was only a couple months old, I strongly believe it didn't. How can I test it? I never mentioned it being 20:1+?
    • Well, you wouldn't use 2nd hand bearings out of another engine anyway....so just buying the proper bearings is obviously what you're going to do. The crankshaft would be common. The conrods might be common. There is essentially nothing else you would be able to use.
×
×
  • Create New...