Jump to content
SAU Community

Clutch Pedal Stuck To Floor, Cannot Change Gears With Clutch


Recommended Posts

Hi everyone

I recently bought an r33 skyline gtst, been loving it up until now. I was driving and suddenly I tried to change gears and the pedal stuck to the floor, and the clutch wouldn't disengage and I had to drive home without using the clutch pedal, resulting in a lot of grinding gears and struggling to get moving at traffic lights.

I was thinking it might be something to do with the slave cylinder... anybody have any info? Has anybody else had this problem?

Edited by MBar93

Is there fluid in the master cylinder?

EDIT: I was wrong, it's actually full

I apologise for sounding pretty dumb, I've never had issues with clutches or hydraulic lines and cylinders with previous cars so I know next to nothing about that stuff haha

Edited by MBar93

The master cylinder may need to be adjusted for it's home position, but bleeding clutches without the Vac bleeder is very hit and miss from my experience.

So it was working OK, fluid level is correct and now it's not working.

No fluid leaks on the concrete.

Push type clutch?

Unless you've destroyed the pressure plate, it has to be either master cylinder, broken pedal, broken throw out lever or perhaps pivot ball.

The broken bits are easy items to check.

The return spring arrangement on the Skyline goes over-centre at about half pedal, thus your pedal stays on the floor if there's a hydraulic problem.

I don't waste time on brake/clutch hydraulics, simply buy a new master cylinder.

So it was working OK, fluid level is correct and now it's not working.

No fluid leaks on the concrete.

Push type clutch?

Unless you've destroyed the pressure plate, it has to be either master cylinder, broken pedal, broken throw out lever or perhaps pivot ball.

The broken bits are easy items to check.

The return spring arrangement on the Skyline goes over-centre at about half pedal, thus your pedal stays on the floor if there's a hydraulic problem.

I don't waste time on brake/clutch hydraulics, simply buy a new master cylinder.

How would I have destroyed the pressure plate? And how would I be able to tell if that is the problem? I'm hoping it's just the master cylinder, I'll get a new one and hope for the best

So I'm waiting for a new master cylinder to arrive, meanwhile I took the old one out, and with the resevoir still full I pumped it by hand and it made a gurgling noise and very little fluid came out at all. I take it this is a definite sign the master cylinder is the problem?

I've swapped in the new master cylinder, and tried to bleed the system. There is a little pressure back in the clutch pedal, but I can't seem to get any more back. Is it just a case of there still being air in the system, and more bleeding required?

Are you bleeding at the slave cyl or the master cyl?

Try cackling the outlet pipe of the master cyl and see if air comes out from there

I've bled both. Only started to get a little bit of pressure after bleeding the master cylinder. I'll try the outlet pipe

If you have some pressure, then bleed more son. if bubbles keep coming the keep bleeding

There were no more bubbles coming out, just liquid...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Convert to dual filament bulb   FWIW, it will look odd - I dare say a bit dumb as it looks like your flasher relay has shit the bed.
    • If the RB20 box in the car is a push clutch, then yes, you will need to deal with the pull clutch on the turbo box. You either buy a pull clutch and don't use the old one, or you do the things needed to convert the turbo box's clutch arrangement over to push. Which is a bit of a f**karound. "Making" a custom tailshaft is the easy part. But you will need to source the front clip yoke - the bit that goes into the output of the gearbox. These are not as easy to find. They are out there, but they don't grow on trees the way that they used to.
    • Indicator bulbs are way too bright to use as a "corner marker" (we call them parking lights too). Sure. Go ahead and do it. But realise that you wil need to come up with all your own wiring to do it, as no-one will have a standard howto worked out for Skylines. It's just a matter of abandoning everything that Nissan have done and starting from scratch. You'd probably be better off retrofitting tailght/brakelight globe bases into the front indicator housings and using the taillight circuit for your corner marker and the brake light as the indicator. You'd need to work out how to kill the marker circuit while the indicator is flashing, otherwise it won't flash on-off, just bright-less bright.
    • Hi. A little bit of an update. It maybe(hope not) looks like i would need a new tranny(it would be "maybe" a cheaper or better option anyway) So i need some info. I know i need a different propshaft(i can make custom one) LSD is not a problem cuz the engine will be still(for now) N/A RB20. So if i buy RB25DET NEO tranny...is there something else i need? I read something about push/pull type but i do not know if i need to "change" something or i can just plug n play onto my engine a go? Thanks for the advice  
    • Good morning all, Bit of a random question but figured I’d finally throw it out after wondering for a long while. Before I start, I'm hoping to do this purely out of personal preference. I think it would look better at night, and don't mind at all spending a few hours and dollars to get it done. I've copied this from a non-Skyline specific forum, so I apologize for the explanation of our headlight switch setup that we all know. Here we go: Zero lights (switch off) Parking lights (switch position 1) being a rectangular marker on the outside of the housing, my low beam being the projector in the centre (position 2), and a high beam triggered by my turn signal stalk. Most North American cars I’ve owned of this era have power to the amber corner (turning indicator) light as part of the first switch (parking lights). I’d love to have these amber corners receive power when the headlights and parking lights are on (headlight switch), yet still blink when using the turn signal which is of course a separate switch. Hopefully I’ve explained my question correctly. Is anyone aware of a way in which I might be able to achieve this? Thanks in advance
×
×
  • Create New...