Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  On 13/02/2015 at 4:15 AM, djr81 said:

A new deal between Fox Sports and Network Ten that will see just 10 Formula 1 races shown live on free-to-air will start this season.

Statements announcing the five-year agreement confirm that the subscription service will carry live coverage of practice, qualifying and races from this season.

Ten of those races will also be simulcast live on Network Ten, which had exclusively hosted F1 in Australia since 2003.

The free-to-air station will continue to broadcast all sessions from Albert Park’s Australian Grand Prix as part of the agreement.

The 10 races that are exclusively live on Fox Sports will be seen on Ten’s sub-channel One HD in 60 minute highlights form at 9:30pm on the following Monday.

So to conclude. Murdoch can go eat a d!ck. So can channel 10. Actually particularly channel 10. Don't sign contracts to not show sh!t just so you can broadcast endless repeats of mash or the home shopping channel or whatever other steaming load of crap you have dredged up from somewhere that people give no fk for. No wonder your going broke. Just hurry up and get done with it instead of fking everyone about.

Nobody watches highlight packages of motor races. They are inherently sh!t.

:verymad:

List of races channel ten will be showing - amazingly they are all the sh!t ones.

Australian live broadcast schedule for 2015 Formula 1 World Championship

1. March 13-15: Melbourne, Australia (FOX & TEN)

2. March 27-29: Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia (FOX)

3. April 10-12: Shanghai, China (FOX)

4. April 17-19: Sakhir, Bahrain (FOX & TEN)

5. May 8-10: Catalunya, Spain (FOX)

6. May 22-24: Monte Carlo, Monaco (FOX & TEN)

7. June 5-7: Montreal, Canada (FOX)

8. June 19-21: Spielberg, Austria (FOX & TEN)

9. July 3-5: Silverstone, Great Britain (FOX)

10. July 17-19: TBA, Germany (FOX & TEN)

11. July 24-26: Budapest, Hungary (FOX)

12. August 21-23: Spa-Francorchamps, Belgium (FOX & TEN)

13. September 4-6: Monza, Italy (FOX)

14. September 18-20: Singapore (FOX & TEN)

15. September 25-27: Suzuka, Japan (FOX)

16. October 9-11: Sochi, Russia (FOX & TEN)

17. October 23-25: Austin, United States (FOX)

18. October 30-November 1: Mexico City, Mexico (FOX & TEN)

19. November 13-15: Sao Paulo, Brazil (FOX)

20. November 27-29: Yas Marina, Abu Dhabi (FOX & TEN)

I am many disappoint. :(

Thats a real bastard act, I loved getting up early(or staying up late to watch) and being super out of it at work the next day.

Couple of questions, can anyone link me to the stream? (pm would be appreciated)

Would I need cable for a decent feed?

Has anyone been to the Japanese GP?

Accommodation is booked, but where are the best seats vs price to be had?

Also same question for the Singapore GP as ill be trying to get to that one this year too.

I don't really mind AJ that much, but alot has changed since he raced, the person I most miss is Cromley.

Singapore itself is better than the Singapore GP. Best place to watch it from is the pool at the Marina Bay Sands hotel. Avoid the stand on the shoreline above the soccer field as you cant see shit from there. Other places are ok - best is probably turn 1/2.

Edited by djr81
  On 13/02/2015 at 6:03 AM, dezz said:

f**k Channel 10, it's about time they lost the righs (albeit only partially).

I'm guessing Foxtel will show all the pre race stuff from the UK guys, which shits all over the four and half minute pre race that Rust and Jones do these days on 10.

pre-race is just the stuff you've been readng about on the internet since the previous race anyway. post race stuff, ted's notebook etc we've all been watching free on the interwebs for years. Not worth $75 per extra race!!! (Min cost is $750 according to Foxtel site) Imagine paying that and then falling asleep on the couch before it starts! lol

Welp this is bullshit, since 2007 i always watch fp1/2 and most of the time fp3, sometimes the sky sports f1 show as well. Always watch quali and the race live. I highly doubt I'll get foxtel for this, I'd rather go to bed early and download it the next day, the hardest thing is staying in a media blackout until I watch it. I can't watch a race if I know who wins it its just not the same.

Mind you if the championship gets close I can see myself forking out the dough, fuuuuuu foxtel I never thought I'd see the day I'd pay you a cent!

Guys I've just had my second child and am

Certainly going to struggle to get foxtel. Are there cheaper alternatives? Where can you download the race from that you mentioned?

Either way it's a shit situation, if I can get up early enough the next morning I can download it and watch it before work.

Soo many swear words but still not enough that allow me to express my feelings about channel 10 and foxtels decision!!

  On 13/02/2015 at 10:39 PM, hrd-hr30 said:

pre-race is just the stuff you've been readng about on the internet since the previous race anyway. post race stuff, ted's notebook etc we've all been watching free on the interwebs for years. Not worth $75 per extra race!!! (Min cost is $750 according to Foxtel site) Imagine paying that and then falling asleep on the couch before it starts! lol

I never find the time to read articles so I like the pre race... And I always watch a live stream, only using channel 10 for hd picture when they're not missing a 1/4 of the race through ad breaks...

Plus with motogp and the AFL on foxtel, I don't mind paying

I have 2 coax lines for the dish, Think it has something to do with the dual tuners built into the box? There are provisions for 4 coax lines in the back.

I'm waiting for the new box to come out at the moment anyway. Should have wireless. Otherwise its easier to do what I do, just buy a range extender, disable the wifi from it and use it as a network hub for your TV, foxtel box etc

  On 15/02/2015 at 2:32 AM, billywhiz said:

As long as you've already got the connection points it's just power, Foxtel fibre, telephone line and your video out eg hdmi

Got no connection points just the standard coax point for free to air at the moment...What's the phone line used for with Foxtel?

  On 15/02/2015 at 4:39 AM, dezz said:

Got no connection points just the standard coax point for free to air at the moment...What's the phone line used for with Foxtel?

Should be an ethernet port for internet features like on demand shows.

New box coming out soon apparently has wireless

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Latest Posts

    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
    • But first....while I was there, I also swapped across the centre console box for the other style where the AV inputs don't intrude into the (very limited !) space.  Part# was 96926-4GA0A, 284H3-4GA0B, 284H3-4GA0A. (I've already swapped the top 12v socket for a USB bulkhead in this pic, it fit the hole without modification:) Comparison of the 2: Basically to do the console you need to remove the DS and PS side console trim (they slide up and back, held in by clips only) Then remove the back half of the console top trim with the cupholders, pops up, all clips again but be careful at the front as it is pretty flimsy. Then slide the shifter boot down, remove the spring clip, loose it forever somewhere in the car the pull the shift knob off. Remove the tiny plastic piece on DS near "P" and use something thin and long (most screwdrivers won't fit) to push down the interlock and put the shifter down in D for space. There is one screw at the front, then the shifter surround and ashtray lift up. There are 3 or 4 plugs underneath and it is off. Next is the rear cover of the centre console; you need to open the console lid, pop off the trim covering the lid hinge and undo the 2rd screw from the driver's side (the rest all need to come out later so you can do them all now and remove the lid) Then the rear cover unclips (6 clips), start at the top with a trim tool pulling backwards. Once it is off there are 2 screws facing rearwards to remove (need a short phillips for these) and you are done with the rear of the console. There are 4 plugs at the A/V box to unclip Then there are 2 screws at the front of the console, and 2 clips (pull up and back) and the console will come out.
×
×
  • Create New...