Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Thanks guys. Yeah just a bit dodgy buy got me through 10,000ks no trouble but time to change. Right angle ones dont work? Do I just need one that goes straigh down? Im going to run a few strong rare earth magnets internally to clean up the crap, the filter sock had metal fillings around it!

Im using a 90 degree filter in my 33. Works just fine even to the end of the tank.

really? perhaps the holder puts it off on the right direction...mine was a deatschwerks and the holder made the filter sit the wrong way.

Why would the filter sticking out of the fuel cause an issue, as long as the pump pickup is in the fuel you should be fine. The direction the sock sits should have minimal impact, but of course sitting flat on the bottom of the tank or just above would be best.

45 degree socks are cheap enough for this not to be a problem anyway.

Nope, the gears inside are like oil pump internals, once something hard and incompressible goes through it wear will occur, then you may as well chuck it away.

It's only $100 for a genuine new one... If you buy from the right place of course. ;)

Ok cool, I ran a few litres through a bucket, it pumps fine and sounds like it did when I put it in, the high buzzing sound, but when its hooked up, its a low drone buzz sound when priming and afrs are way too lean everywhere. If it was stuffed it wouldn't pump fine out of car then go to shit in it? Ive changed fuel filter made no difference

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Personal experience. Those f**kers burn. And are actually a PITA to put out. Next time I walk down the back, I'll snap a photo of what the inside of the bonnet looks like when that thing ignites. PS, powder fire extinguishers are useless on that stuff too as it's fibrous and when it ignites, it starts to pull apart. And you end up just blowing powder through a sieve effectively.   Like the big thing is, if it's fire resistant, it's job is to stop what burning? The METAL above it? It's just to try keep heat off the bonnet paint work.
    • Oh man, sorry, $60.00000000... 😛
    • That's more or less what he meant. What it really means is that you do not have to go full crazy on the build. Don't need the best oil pump, expensive rods & pistons, big cams, etc. You can upgrade whatever you want instead of using stock level items, but you don't have to. Having said that - any time an RB is opened up, if anything is getting replaced, I think the opportunity should be taken to do all the sensible upgrades. Pistons, rods, pump, etc.
    • February update 🙂 We managed to get the very last 1/18th "Extra Scale" cars stock available from bookstores in Kyoto. These are actually the last ones and will not be restocked again! Hachette Collections Japan have not decided on a release date for these or other models in the series, so for the time being these are all there are available new.  These are showing up on Yahoo auctions at inflated prices already (especially the Celica and NSX) so get yours now at a very reasonable price before they disappear! Stock quantities: NA1 Honda NSX - 1 left: https://www.oemsoko.co.jp/products/1-18-extra-scale-1990-na1-honda-nsx 1973 Toyota Celica LB 2000GT - 2 left: https://www.oemsoko.co.jp/products/1-18-extra-scale-1973-toyota-celica-lb-2000gt 1968 Mazda Cosmo Sport - 2 left: https://www.oemsoko.co.jp/products/1-18-extra-scale-1968-mazda-cosmo-sport 1970 KPGC10 Nissan Skyline 2000GT-R - 2 left: https://www.oemsoko.co.jp/products/1-18-extra-scale-1970-kpgc10-nissan-skyline-2000gt-r
    • When you say basic rebuild, you mean an oem rebuild?
×
×
  • Create New...