Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Your propaganda and JEDI-77's Z32 have swayed me to appreciate and even consider these cars to be cool.

Maybe I need to have a ride in one

:D Mark's car is nice, there are plenty worse ones you could have a ride in!

They are no more troublesome than any other 25ish year old import, owned by people who can't afford the basic maintenance.

There are many, many shitboxes not worth saving (soon to be parts cars), and a few very well cared for/maintained/modded examples. There are still enough average/above average ones floating around that could be nice with a bit of time and effort (and money).

  • 2 weeks later...

Final fuel line re-routing has begun. Came to a stop when I realised I needed to connect 2 lots of 2 female hose ends. Always forget the males.

So took the time to install the Twinz chin spoiler, looks good, fits well, but now I have to redo my undertray as access to mounting holes are reduced.

20160425_172210_zpsvklqeyxd.jpg

20160425_172233_zpssbfet6kl.jpg

  • 2 months later...

Fuel system is complete again now. 1650s are in etc

Just finishing up install of in cabin fuel pressure gauge, have a grommet or 2 to replace, and footwell to put back together.

Then just need to find the laptop charger and I can hopefully fire it up again.

  • 4 months later...

Not long after my last post, I did find the laptop charger. Also discovered that the laptop battery was proper stuffed and would not power on. So I had to buy a new laptop, and all my tunes are stuck in the old laptop. Anyway...

I did get the zed fired up again and it idled perfectly.

Not long after that, I happened upon an Adaptronic select on the forum here (thanks Count Grantleyish, top seller!), and since I am obvioulsy not in any great hurry to get this bloody car working again, I decided to bite the bullet and replace Nistune with Adaptronic. Nearly got it ready to start too, when those bastards at Link ECU had a special this month on their Z32 plug in G4+.

So the Adaptronic was gone before it began, and I am currently waiting for the Link. At least alot of the wiring I did for the adaptronic isn't wasted, just needs to be re-terminated at the ECU (widebands and all the other external sensors).

In the meantime, I have also sold off my original Ross Metaljacket balancer, with a view to get one of the new ones with the trigger wheel already attached. Obviously all the bracketry and sensors that go with this will need to be sorted at some stage. Like everything, it all takes time and/or money, which I don't have much of either with now 2 kids under 1.5.

Also forgot the fancy sump i picked up. It is from Specialty Z in the states, was used on a local race car that met an untimely end at lakeside. It is a factory sump, modified to suit.

Big capacity, fancy trapdoors and baffles and scrapers and stuff20161015_180024.jpg

20161015_180031.jpg

20161015_195449.jpg

20161015_180043.jpg

  • 2 months later...
  • 10 months later...

Bit of an update.

Car is now running on the link G4+, with crank trigger and modified CAS. Have a new sync trigger to install that replaces the CAS altogether, but haven't got there yet.

Going to be removing the AEM widebands and replace them with Ecotrons ALM CAN II. Received them yesterday so no more excuses.

Also been working on an in car pc/dash setup which is basically complete. It is a little bit rougher than I'd like but still pretty happy with how it turned out. Will fine tune the display as I go, was just a quick layout to define the size. The blue LED for highbeam is way too bright (even with twice the resistance of the green indicators) so I will have to do something there. Have some different LED's with a diffused face in transit, so they might work better, even tho I do like the chrome bezel on these.

Basic setup is as follows. 7in Win 10 touchscreen mini pc in centre console (armrest), dash screen is the 2nd display and is a usb powered raspberry pi hdmi 7in. Software is the regular PClink.

20171021_232121.thumb.jpg.2bad97d4a834a31f8392440e8a3e6b92.jpg20171024_132326.thumb.jpg.a210506ea99dd3723c8f965e5d3d084b.jpg20171024_155150.thumb.jpg.817d9f3d6b48a0582f013dce9ea040ef.jpg20171026_225304.thumb.jpg.2b9c94746b9de2a2a0eec885b03bb484.jpg20171029_140355.thumb.jpg.e18c4dd85dae63b0504d5afb628c852e.jpg20171028_224427.thumb.jpg.ab6235d2aabb17f2d28fe6a9c39f0e92.jpg

car pc dash small day.mp4

Fuel setup has also been changed. All fuelab products removed. They were the source of some intermittent delivery issues I was having. Working just enough to send me on a massive wild goose chase changing everything else.

Anyway, settled for now on twin 460's in tank, no surge tank anymore, turbosmart FPR2000 and a Radium damper.

  • Like 5
3 minutes ago, GTofuS-T said:

That's awesome! Love the dash!! would be keen to see a bit more detail on the development of it one day. 

Thankyou! Once I have settled on the setup and finished it all up I will add some more details and pics of the whole thing.

  • Like 1
2 minutes ago, PranK said:

I like the concept of a high beam dashboard LED burning the retinas of the driver. People will use high beams sparingly then. :)

 

haha I agree 100%, just not in my car :D and I would like to be able to see again shortly after I turn them off, which as it stands, I can't. It is that bright. I was quite surprised as they are the same series as the green ones, and they are pleasant.

  • Like 1
4 minutes ago, MagicMikeZ32 said:

haha I agree 100%, just not in my car :D and I would like to be able to see again shortly after I turn them off, which as it stands, I can't. It is that bright. I was quite surprised as they are the same series as the green ones, and they are pleasant.

Perhaps you can direct the light from the LED out the front to supplement the high beams ? :)

8 minutes ago, PranK said:

Perhaps you can direct the light from the LED out the front to supplement the high beams ? :)

Funny you should mention that... Since I have replaced the foglights with the carbon ducts, night viability is terrible without high beams, so I have plans to do something to supplement the low beams (and also the parkers that are supposed to live in the foglights).

But I am a while off a mountain run so no great rush to start on that.

  • Like 1
  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • First up, I wouldn't use PID straight up for boost control. There's also other control techniques that can be implemented. And as I said, and you keep missing the point. It's not the ONE thing, it's the wrapping it up together with everything else in the one system that starts to unravel the problem. It's why there are people who can work in a certain field as a generalist, IE a IT person, and then there are specialists. IE, an SQL database specialist. Sure the IT person can build and run a database, and it'll work, however theyll likely never be as good as a specialist.   So, as said, it's not as simple as you're thinking. And yes, there's a limit to the number of everything's in MCUs, and they run out far to freaking fast when you're designing a complex system, which means you have to make compromises. Add to that, you'll have a limited team working on it, so fixing / tweaking some features means some features are a higher priority than others. Add to that, someone might fix a problem around a certain unrelated feature, and that change due to other complexities in the system design, can now cause a new, unforseen bug in something else.   The whole thing is, as said, sometimes split systems can work as good, and if not better. Plus when there's no need to spend $4k on an all in one solution, to meet the needs of a $200 system, maybe don't just spout off things others have said / you've read. There's a lot of misinformation on the internet, including in translated service manuals, and data sheets. Going and doing, so that you know, is better than stating something you read. Stating something that has been read, is about as useful as an engineering graduate, as all they know is what they've read. And trust me, nearly every engineering graduate is useless in the real world. And add to that, if you don't know this stuff, and just have an opinion, maybe accept what people with experience are telling you as information, and don't keep reciting the exact same thing over and over in response.
    • How complicated is PID boost control? To me it really doesn't seem that difficult. I'm not disputing the core assertion (specialization can be better than general purpose solutions), I'm just saying we're 30+ years removed from the days when transistor budgets were in the thousands and we had to hem and haw about whether there's enough ECC DRAM or enough clock cycles or the interrupt handler can respond fast enough to handle another task. I really struggle to see how a Greddy Profec or an HKS EVC7 or whatever else is somehow a far superior solution to what you get in a Haltech Nexus/Elite ECU. I don't see OEMs spending time on dedicated boost control modules in any car I've ever touched. Is there value to separating out a motor controller or engine controller vs an infotainment module? Of course, those are two completely different tasks with highly divergent requirements. The reason why I cite data sheets, service manuals, etc is because as you have clearly suggested I don't know what I'm doing, can't learn how to do anything correctly, and have never actually done anything myself. So when I do offer advice to people I like to use sources that are not just based off of taking my word for it and can be independently verified by others so it's not just my misinterpretation of a primary source.
    • That's awesome, well done! Love all these older Datsun / Nissans so rare now
    • As I said, there's trade offs to jamming EVERYTHING in. Timing, resources etc, being the huge ones. Calling out the factory ECU has nothing to do with it, as it doesn't do any form of fancy boost control. It's all open loop boost control. You mention the Haltech Nexus, that's effectively two separate devices jammed into one box. What you quote about it, is proof for that. So now you've lost flexibility as a product too...   A product designed to do one thing really well, will always beat other products doing multiple things. Also, I wouldn't knock COTS stuff, you'd be surprised how many things are using it, that you're probably totally in love with As for the SpaceX comment that we're working directly with them, it's about the type of stuff we're doing. We're doing design work, and breaking world firsts. If you can't understand that I have real world hands on experience, including in very modern tech, and actually understand this stuff, then to avoid useless debates where you just won't accept fact and experience, from here on, it seems you'd be be happy I (and possibly anyone with knowledge really) not reply to your questions, or input, no matter how much help you could be given to help you, or let you learn. It seems you're happy reading your data sheets, factory service manuals, and only want people to reinforce your thoughts and points of view. 
    • I don't really understand because clearly it's possible. The factory ECU is running on like a 4 MHz 16-bit processor. Modern GDI ECUs have like 200 MHz superscalar cores with floating point units too. The Haltech Nexus has two 240 MHz CPU cores. The Elite 2500 is a single 80 MHz core. Surely 20x the compute means adding some PID boost control logic isn't that complicated. I'm not saying clock speed is everything, but the requirements to add boost control to a port injection 6 cylinder ECU are really not that difficult. More I/O, more interrupt handlers, more working memory, etc isn't that crazy to figure out. SpaceX if anything shows just how far you can get arguably doing things the "wrong" way, ie x86 COTS running C++ on Linux. That is about as far away from the "correct" architecture as it gets for a real time system, but it works anyways. 
×
×
  • Create New...