Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey everyone, I've been searching around on the forum, but have only managed to find bits and pieces on the topic but anyway,
I have an R34 GT-T with a GTR MFD on it, and I was just wondering what temperatures I should be reading when driving normally, and when under boost for the following things:

Oil temp, water temp, exhaust temp, and, intercooler temp.

Basically what temperatures are safe, and what's not. Sorry if this has been asked before, but I couldn't find it specifically.

post-129215-0-23600100-1417092455_thumb.jpg


Thanks!

Yup. And my oil temp runs very close to water temp most of the time, although will climb above 100 in traffic, on really hot days and/or if I'm giving it some treatment.

My exhaust temp, pre-turbo, is about 500°C cruising, up to 900°C when absolutely caning it, with intermediate load levels coming in at the temperatures in between.

Okay cool, 90 degrees sounds like the norm for neo engines then.
From what I was reading earlier most people were below 90, so that had me worried a bit. So cheers for that!

Anyone know about the intercooler temperatures though?

Right, well. Keep in mind that the temperature rise on the turbo (if running efficiently) at 1 bar is about 100°C. This goes on top of ambient temp. So your intercooler inlet T is probably 75°C or so. That cooler is probably well big enough to drop most of the heat out of teh charge air even on a decent 3rd gear pull to redline, so you'd probably see 30°C or so at the outlet.

But it's as rough as guts talking about this stuff because it depends so much on the ambient temperature, how well ducted the cooler (external) air flow is, the mass of the cooler vs the power level being run, etc etc.

Okay yeah that would make sense, when I drive it around I see cooler temps of 40-58 on a warmish day, so I guess that's completely normal too.
I'll take it out for a bit tonight when the air is a bit colder and see what it's like then.

Cheers for that though!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I'm not sure the diode only will give the desired result. I'd probably approach it with a couple of relays (And you still might need a diode too!). You need to be able to break the constant feed from the headlight to the orange corner globe when the indicator is flashing. Not knowing which Skyline we're talking about specifically here too (And it may not matter, but I don't know the R34 column switches) you'd likely need to rewire the stalk, so that the indicator power itself no longer runs through the stalk too, as now you need it able to trigger a relay that will break the constant supply from the headlights to the indicator, then you'll need a separate relay to trigger the indicators to come on (Replacing the internal action of the indicator stalk).
    • Weird story from me My Toyota 86 was with Commbank comprehensive but for market value (who they use to underwrite is unknown) When I munted it beyond financially viable repair in 2020, rear end smashed in to the point it bent the rear quarter and roof, they knew I paid $31k cash for it because I told them, they still paid me out $38k, as all the 2017 limited edition variants with typical Km and condition were going for between $36-41k, so they did weird math and came up with $38k I never officially mentioned any of the mods that I had done, but as they were not the cause of the crash they were not fussed at all, the insurance inspector actually asked if I wanted to replace all the mods with the OEM stuff if I still had it laying around before they took the car I still came out of it behind though, because I had probably dropped $20k in it with the suspension (bent after the prang), wheels (bent as well) and "other" mods, that the inspector asked about But still, as the market value was higher than what I initially paid, and they paid out market value To say I was surprised with the outcome would be an understatement  Weird, but true, but probably just lucky with the inspector on the day I guess  Sadly, I don't think if I munted the old NC1 MX5 I would get the same result Meh, pay to play
    • Well, the car is back, all straight and shiny, for how long for is anyone's guess  After picking it up we went for a bit of a drive, Jebus I really enjoy driving this little thing, hopefully the weather let's us go for a nice long cruise this weekend as it will be out of my hands for at least a few days next week when it heads back into Mania on Monday It's weird, whilst I do always enjoy going for a drive, the NC makes me feel like a kid who has just got his first car, and they just want to drive wherever and whenever they can I really need to look into the MX5 Club of NSW
    • wow that is some seriously JDM original credibility there!
    • Selling hks rb25 cast manifold and waste gate.   Never going to use as don't have Rb powered car  Unknown condition of waste gate diaphragm  $900 Pick up only Ipswich Qld 
×
×
  • Create New...