Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I'm currently get my rb26 head ported and my engine builder wanted me to buy an old head to cut up to see how big the ports are and where the water jackets are so he doesn't get close when porting it, now I thought they might be some good pictures for you to have a look at, I'm not sure weather it's been posted up before but here they are. Cheers


post-134876-14173179977791_thumb.jpgpost-134876-14173180239238_thumb.jpgpost-134876-14173180418_thumb.jpgpost-134876-14173180656213_thumb.jpg

  • Like 6
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/451224-head-porting-for-rb26/
Share on other sites

Get some of the divider in the exhaust port if you can please, there is a jacket that goes through the middle in there, you can see a tiny hole from the head gasket side going through the middle of it.

Also some pics of the sides of the ports to see the design on thickness of the water jacket areas on the sides.

Or in other words cuts made the other way......

Lucky you, i tried to find a cracked or damaged head locally to cut up but everyone wanted top $ for something only worth its weight in alloy.

Cyl 5 95% done on the exhaust side, others are roughed in, looking to buy a bigger house so house hunting ATM and the head work can wait till i find time and energy between that and running a business.

Took me 8-10 hours of touching and looking one exhaust port to bring it where i wanted it to, now will be replicating it across the other 5.

No worries GTRPSI I'll see what I can do for the other way to cut it up I have a couple more of the head cut up so I'll get more and post them up, might be in a day or too tho when I get back out to the workshop

  • Like 1

Dont stress or rush as ive already worked out my shape on the head im using, however the information would be good for others and my other backup head i have for future work.

Thanks for taking the time to share the info, its these things that help everyone.

  • 7 months later...

Well I'm about to cut them bits up you asked for gtrpsi as I'm about to start porting the head soon, I finished my porting on the bit that's attached to the head a while ago, took about 10 hours to complete, a question for people who are experienced in head porting what kind of finish do you use? I'm using 80 grit on a little die grinder flapper disc, here's a few pics of how it looks,

post-134876-14380559867033_thumb.jpg

Port matching to my hypertune runners

Tpost-134876-14380560597783_thumb.jpg

The left is standard the right is my job

post-134876-14380561672914_thumb.jpg

  • Like 1

You'd be the coolest buy ever if you could get some fine graph paper and trace/etch out the shape to some sort of scale. You know, the indiana jones trick with the charcoal on top of the paper on top of the head. It would give everyone solid dimensions of the ports and resultant thickness.

Also the full half-cut of the eshaust port would be great as well.

Ill get some pics and better still measurements of my Drag head tonight or tomorrow to share, ive only completed the exhaust ports to satisfaction, inlets are partially roughed out, still studying them and not enough hours in the day.

Measurements might be better at certain points in the ports so you can see how far it can be taken...remember the exhaust ports are the major restriction, inlets dont need that much work.

My exhaust port shape was based on carefully measuring 2 heads i was granted access to, one was made for a 1200Hp RB build by a local porter, the other was a Sydney port job for a all out drag engine that was also at the workshop.

Ive got their inlet specs, however im yet to overlay what they did and study them properly.

Dont ask me how many hours went into the exhaust ports.......

And dont forget, outright drag specs wont work well on the street as flow velocity will be low, however its a indication of how much room there is to work with safely.

Edit; to answer your port finish question, leave the intakes rough, 80 to 120 grit to help atomize the fuel, exhausts can be the same for the street, ive gone for polished exhaust ports, not needed on a street engine though as they will be carbon coated quickly.

Edited by GTRPSI

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy on your suggestion on another thread I had a look at those injectors and ended up getting them because of the quality.  Got the expensive ones.  
    • Hey guys been looking everywhere to try and find the correct gtr hood latch support part number but only found the first half and when I search with that number it sends me to an r34. The first part I found was 62515. If anyone could help me with the rest then I’d really appreciate it. Or if there’s some alternative hood latch support that would work even better cause I can’t find any for sale. (Searched on upgarage, partsouq,buyee,rhdjapan) 
    • If you've only done the upper control arms on the rear, AND you have changed their length (by more than about 1mm) to set the camber you want, then you will definitely need/want to install traction arms also. Adjusting the camber arms on their own WILL introduce bump steer and make the car unpleasant to drive. Most owners have no idea that their car could behave infinitely better than what they put up with. I'm not entirely sure what the Stageas need, but I am thinking that unless you have massive front spring rates and pretty soft rear springs, you have waaaay too much rear bar. Oversteer city, in my estimation. Combined with possible excessive bump steer from maladjusted arms, that could be a recipe for nastiness. ATR43SS2 is not a highflow. It is an outright replacement turbo. It's a little bit bigger than the largest highflow profile that Tao does. Probably a solid 300rwkW turbo where the bigger highflows will be about 30-40rwkW less. Nevertheless, we're only talking about ~300 rwkW, which is well within the abilities of the stock ECu to run with a Nistune on board. I would do so without hesitation - and I will be doing so when I get my finger out and actually get the injectors and AFM installed. But, if you would prefer to drop a whole lot more money on the ECU side, then I suspect you're looking at Haltech. The Haltech fanbois here will all spout on about all the available engine protection you can have, that you can't have with the Nistune option. And they're right. But it doesn't really come for free either. You will spend more money on extra sensors and the like, plus the work to install them. If the engine was built and therefore represented a big investment to protect, then I'd say definitely do it. If you view the current (and forever into the future) shortage of replacement engines as something to prompt similar protection, then also, do it. If you see a destroyed RB25 as an opportunity to put in a Mercedes or other V12 (like I kinda do)... then your perception of the risk/reward might differ. These are good injectors. You can also get a "better" set of the same with more flow matching, for more $$. 1000cc is where you will want to be. You will need an R35 AFM and adapter tube if you want to stay with Nistuned stock ECU. Otherwise, if going Haltech, you can ignore. As for intercooler. Just about anything will do. You're only talking about ~300rwkW. Just put a big core in there. Be aware that return flows do add significant pressure drop and will cost power and will make the turbo work harder to achieve the same goals. If you can manage a proper crossflow, do it. I'm keeping my very good return flow because I'm only expecting to be in the ~250rwkW range, and will live with whatever outcome I get.
    • I have a heap that i have collected if you want some authentic ones still. Pm me if your interested!
×
×
  • Create New...