Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all,

I had my V35 coupe parked on the side of the road today, and when I started it up to drive off, I was met by an extremely loud screeching noise when I turned the wheel to the right and started to drive. It seems to be coming from the front, drivers side wheel arch.

After a 4-5 seconds, the squeal stopped. I drove forward for about 20m, then turned right onto another street when it squealed again- this time it was nowhere near as loud or long. I pulled back over and let the car idle for a minute, before taking off. It was only a 10 minute drive home, and it did not make the noise again.

Does anyone know what this could be? A few google searches indicate the power steering may be the culprit.

The power steering fluid is full to where it needs to be. The alignment seems to be fine. For the last few weeks, there has been a light clunk noise coming from the front right suspension (the car has tein coilovers), which I was going to get looked at after christmas. There don't seem to be any leaks from the car either. Usually when I reverse out of the drive, there is a slight buzz noise (presumably due to the EDFC) once I have started driving.

I purchased the car from a specialist importer, and am the first owner of the car in Australia. The car has just ticked over 80k kms (I have dereg papers and import papers etc to confirm this).

If anyone has any ideas, please let me know so I can contact the dealer with at least some knowledge of what the problem could be.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/451230-squealing-noise/
Share on other sites

stone stuck between the brake rotor and caliper or caliper bracket..

Interesting...

I took it for a drive an hour or so ago and it didn't do it.

Hopefully it was just gremlins... I might get my phone ready when I go to work tomorrow and see if it does it again...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/451230-squealing-noise/#findComment-7434721
Share on other sites

I would say old/loose ancillary belts. They aren't expensive to replace, $70 for both from memory, and about 30 mins of your time.

+1. Commonly heard on old bangers but can happen on newer vehicles if the belt has been damaged or is getting dirty.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/451230-squealing-noise/#findComment-7434816
Share on other sites

they should be ok, but these size belts are an 'off the shelf' item, you should be able to buy at just about any auto parts store.

Slipping belts often squeal when starting from cold and get loud when you rev the engine, and often go away after the first minute or so of driving. also can get louder when you put them under load, eg. power steering pump load (turning when not moving or moving slow) or AC compressor. Shouldn't really make much difference if you are turning right or left. and would also come from the front of the car, not the right side wheel arch.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/451230-squealing-noise/#findComment-7435943
Share on other sites

well sort of.. not really in the wheel arch... it is close enough to the front centre of the engine bay that it would sound like it is coming from under the bonnet when you are in the drivers seat.

when I had a faulty fuel damper, it sounded like it was coming from the engine bay, even thought it was the rear right side of the engine.

The sound of a squealing belt would also be quite a bit different to a rock in the calliper. a belt is a screech.. but a rock is more of a metallic scraping sound which is usually a bit modulated with wheel rotation speed.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/451230-squealing-noise/#findComment-7436027
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Oh dear. The panel beating needs to be done before the filler work. Do you have a photo of the dent before you started? Hard enough to not flex and only hit the high spots?  What do you mean it was just temporary? 
    • Can u check this way it works for power supply?
    • These coils draw 10amps that what i read online
    • I appreciate the detailed explanation, think I understand now. I spent the better part of last night reading what I could about shuffle and potential solutions. I had replaced the OEM twin turbo pipe with an alternate Y pipe that is separated further away from the turbo. The current one is from HKS and I had a previous pipe that was separated even further away, both have shuffle. I had heard that a divider can be welded in to the OEM pipe to remove turbulence, and figure that aftermarket pipes that are more separated would achieve the same thing. From what I read, most people with -10 turbos get shuffle due to their size, though it's a bit less common with -5s on a standard RB26. I think Nismoid mentioned somewhere it's because OEM recirculation piping is common in Australia with -5 cars. It seems that the recommendation tends to vary between a few options, which I've ordered in what I think is most feasible for me:  1. Retune the MAP or boost controller to try to eliminate shuffle 2. Install OEM recirculation piping 3. Something called a 'balance pipe' welded onto the exhaust manifolds. I don't know if kits for this are available, seems like pure fabrication work 4. simply go single turbo My current layout is as follows: Garrett 2860 -5s HKS Racing Suction intake MAF delete pipes HKS racing chamber intake piping hard intercooler piping,  ARC intercooler HKS SSQV BOV and pipe Haltech 2500 elite ECU and boost solenoid/controller HPI dump pipes OEM exhaust manifolds HKS VCAM step 1 and supporting head modifications Built 2.6 bottom end All OEM recirculation piping was removed, relevant areas sealed off I'll keep an eye out for any alternative solutions but can get started with this.  Only other question is, does shuffle harm the turbo (or anything else)? It seems like some people say your turbo shafts will explode because of the opposing forces after a while and others say they just live with it and adjust their pedal foot accordingly. 
    • That worked out PERFECTLY! Thank you big time to JJ. He was able to swap me his stock diff. He drove all the way to me as well. Killer! Removal & install was pretty straightforward. The diff itself is HEAVY. So that’s a 2 man job.  Man does the car drive nice now! Couldn’t have worked out any better 👌
×
×
  • Create New...