Gtr R32 Revival - Advice And Recomendation

[KrayzieGTR]

Hey Guys,

- Sorry in advanced for the long post -

I am a long time member and fan of this wonderful forum and am after some advice from the many knowledgeable people on here. I am not a regular poster myself, due to the fact that most of the things I know about my car has come from this forum and its members, but I am always on here learning and understanding more and more about my baby each and every time.

I have owned my 1990 GTR R32 since 2005 and through many ups and downs (including no money and moving overseas for a year) this car has been with me, even with many friends and family urging me to sell it more times than I would like to remember over the years. I have now come to a point in my life where I can finally invest some precious time and of course money in getting it to a point I have always dreamt and hoped for. After over 2 years off the road I recently brought her to life again and have been in the process of refreshing as much of her as possible with the time, money and space I have.

After the initial revival of replacing fuel, oil and coolant and getting it started etc. I have begun stripping out as much of the engine as possible with out removing the engine to check it all and refresh as many hoses, clamps, gaskets and spray paint/clean as much as I can get to. Due to a fairly limited budget, and not a huge amount of room to work in I decided at the start that the block, head and turbo's will have to wait till further down the line when a little more money and better option for a work space was available. Since getting into it, finding little problems and getting carried away, I have removed a lot more than I initially expected and this is now where my dilemma comes and why I am turning to everyone for their opinions and advice.

Since getting into it I have removed the whole exhaust system up to the dump pipes (as rust came shooting out of the tailpipe when she was first started and run again), Removed all intake piping (including Intercooler, BOV's etc.), Radiator, Hoses & Thermo (to be replaced), All Engine Covers (Coil, Cams and Cam Gear for powder coating), all 4 Brake Callipers & Rotor (for Rebuild and Powder Coating/Painting etc.), CV Shaft (To be clean and re-booted) and will be changing all the Vacuum, Water/Heater Hose etc. I can get to.

Now that I have got to this point and am now looking to remove the intake plenum, I am having a dilemma and really need some expert advice when it comes to GTR's and early series RB26 Engines. Have I gone so far now that it is worth just going the whole way and removing the engine? How much further work is involved to remove it from here?

The plan was to initially get as much refreshed as possible with out removing the engine and then down the line addressing the weak turbo and oil pump issues along with slightly bigger Injectors, Cams, Cam Gears, Head Gasket, Belt Kit, Pulley if Required and replacing all the main seals etc. But now due to the fact I feel I am only a few steps short of being able to remove the engine, would it be worth putting everything back together only to have to remove it all again down the line and having needing to replace some of the same intake gaskets etc. again that I am going to replace this time around? Also, can anyone let me know if you need to remove the intake plenum to remove the engine? I am about to attempt to remove it with the engine still in but am a little worried as I know it is a PITA job and I have never attempted it before.

So I guess what I am asking is what would everyone's recommendations be at this stage? Would you continue with the refresh only and just worry about the next stage when I get to it? or would you just take the extra time, money and hassle of removing the engine now seeing as a fair bit of the work is already been completed? I am so confused right now, I would love to just jump in and remove the engine but with no real previous experience and lack of work space I am worried it might end up being an very long drawn out and expensive way to go.

One last thing as well, would anyone who has experience with the early model RB's have any recommendations on what else I might consider doing while everything is out (besides the engine)? I have tried to think of everything but it seems like every time I am in the garage I think of something else that needs to be done. Thanks in advanced for any help and advice you guys can offer. I really respect the opinions on this forum and am very interested in peoples thoughts on all of this.

Cheers guys,

Kristian.

[KrayzieGTR]

Bump... lol

I know its a long post but I really could use some advice. Thanks everyone.

[Anfanee]

I would remove the engine. Without a doubt.

[Anfanee]

Whilst engine is out leaves much to the imagination. How much do you want to spend? Is this going to be an all out build or?

[jiffo]

I see a conflict, limited budget and engine out.

If you pull the engine you'll need deep pockets.

Having got to that stage there's temptations galore and not just in the engine/turbo department.

Gearbox and clutch, fit a decent front diff, have the transfer case checked to name a few.

Just replacing coolant and vacuum hoses with genuine Nissan will blow over a grand. (quite a few hundred with silicone)

I'm thinking put it back together and drive it until the finances are there, by which time you may have other things going on in your life.

[KrayzieGTR]

Whilst engine is out leaves much to the imagination. How much do you want to spend? Is this going to be an all out build or?

Cheers mate, I appreciate the feedback. I am having the problem of starting off with a mild freshen up in mind and then wanting to do more and more the further I go. I have the standard problem of always wanting to do something else.

I see a conflict, limited budget and engine out.

If you pull the engine you'll need deep pockets.

Hi Jiffo, thank you for your advice it is also much appreciated. I agree with everything mentioned and hence why I am having a bit of a dilemma. I guess I need to clarify a bit for you, I wouldn't say the budget it THAT tight although that being said both my missus and I (which means basically the missus lol) are saving for important things in life right now so I have to be careful about spending all my current savings, which I could quite easily do I have considered just doing the first few things I started out to do, just put it all back together and drive until I have a little more budget and space etc. but due to the time it has taken to get to this point I am thinking that it may be worth continuing all the way to getting the engine out even if it sits on a stand for a while as I get bits and pieces fixed over time.

Just replacing coolant and vacuum hoses with genuine Nissan will blow over a grand. (quite a few hundred with silicone)

I would love a complete parts list of all the factory hoses if anyone has them (i have found a few OEM hoses myself, although I would prefer they came in a complete ste like the Autobahn88 or Samo Kits)

Over the last few days since getting to this point, I have been looking into some build threads etc. getting ideas of things that should be really looked at when it comes to pulling the engine etc. and with a rough costing list I can see it be viable but maybe just over a few months (although i haven't been able to factor in all the little things which add up). Although as Jiffo mentioned above I haven't dove to far into the gearbox, Transfer Case and Diffs yet which can obviously be a lot more money too. I am assuming that you wouldn't need to take the engine out to do these things down the line???

The things I have found over the last few days that I should really do if the engine comes out are basically

- Oil Pump and Collar (maybe Nismo Hi Flow and ??? Collar)

- Harmonic Balancer & Pulley Kit

- Full Belt Replacement Kit

- Sump Baffle (Tomei)

- New Turbo/Upgrade Std (Only after around Nismo spec)

- Clean up/Port Exhaust Manifold

- Clean Up/Port Head - depending on pricing (haven't looked up much on this yet)

- Injectors (600cc Nismo??)

- Power FC with Boost Controller

- Check Crank and Bearings (not sure if it will need balancing with New Harmonic Balancer)

- Full Engine Gasket and Seal Replacement

- Water Pump (probably just OEM)

Not really looking to do pistons and ring etc. unless we get in there and find we have to so will have to play that one by ear.

As mentioned previous end power is not the be all and end all although I would like around a safe 320-350kW at the wheels if possible. Thanks again for the feedback i hope to make my decision in the next few days on which way I am going to go forward from here. Keep the advice coming.

[Aussie_Delivered_R32_GTR]

Sorry......... Put my post in the wrong thread. :whistling: :whistling:

Bob.

[KrayzieGTR]

Hey guys, again thank you for the feedback and information. Jiffo thank you very much for the PM I will reply to it a little later today. I have decided it will be engine out and bite the bullet on a lot of things I have wanted to do since the day I brought it.

I am very close to finalising the specs on my rebuild and will be looking to get my orders in for everything in the next few days. One thing I am again very stuck on is Turbo's. I have been looking at the whole Garret GT2860R-5/GT2859R-9/GT2860R-7 dilemma and had more or less decided to go with the -5's. The question I had was has many people just had their standard R32 Turbo's upgrade with Steel Fin etc.? and if so how much approx. would I be looking at and approx. how much power would be achievable with this (providing for this case that all other supporting mods were taken care of)? The further I go the money is really starting to climb and I am looking at different ways to maybe save a few dollars. I have found a New set of GT2860R-5's for $1950 but its really pushing everything up.

I also initially started out looking to just refresh it as standard as possible and feel like with the -5's I'm getting even further away from that goal, although they do seem like an awesome little set up.

Thanks guys, I am very interested on the feedback about this. Cheers Kris.

[Ambi3nce]

Personally wouldn't go -5s on none stroked motor. -9s can make excellent power, especially with e85. Combine the e85 with out having to rev it above 7500 for peak power and stock engine should be golden,

I would go with a more modern ecu like a Vipec/link or haltech. The biggest gains in engine reliability and longevity have come from e85/better ecus.

Crazy not to use either.

Check my build thread for what you can aim for on -9s and e85. I did most of the mods you spoke of too.

[KrayzieGTR]

Thanks for the info Ambi, but now you have got me looking into my decision a little bit more again.

As most people looking at GT2860/59's, I have read a lot of information on both and from what I can tell both have their pros and cons. Firstly I don't think I am ever going to run with e85 as I will probably just keep it on 98 pump fuel, as I know it will be easier in the long run. Plus isn't there a bunch of fuel mods etc. that need to be carried out to run e85 as well? or am I wrong.

Secondly I would love the smaller option for acceleration and more streetable power but I am worried that they are not up for it power wise. Not having used these turbo's before or personally not knowing anyone who has, I keep hearing mixed reviews some claiming the -9's don't take that much to max out and I don't want to be left wanting more after this build. When I spoke with CGC Turbo's (through work) I was told the -5's are a lot more popular and they are a great match for the RB26 but then others claim not so much.... arrrrgggggghhhh!

I really don't know what to do. I am about to finalise a big order from Japan for a stack of parts and accessories and need to make my final decisions on as much as I can in the next day or two.

So far I have cemented in -

- Power FC Engine Management (I wouldn't mind something different but $2000 is just too expensive for what I need), if anything I am looking for a used Power FC (if worth it)

- Boost Control - Profec B

- Bigger Injectors - 700cc-800cc (not sure of brand yet as Nismo top out at 600cc.)

- Oil Pump Upgrade - probably Nismo Unit with Collar and maybe stronger gears if required? (I read about this splined gear setup but don't know enough.)

- Water Pump - OEM

- Sump Baffle and 1.5mm Oil Restrictor

- Adj. Cam Gears

- Clean up port head, new valve guides and check springs

- New Crank and Cam Bearings

- Recondition Starter and Alternator

- Replace all hoses, clamps and gaskets

- Port Exhaust Manifold

- New Engine Mounts

- Upgraded Pulley Kit

- New Belts

- AND Turbo's of course once I figure out which ones.

Down the line once money settles again and I have some time I will probably get some new Coil Packs and get stuck into the Suspension and Power Steering etc.

[Juan_2_3]

add a fuel pump

change your injectors to at least ID1000

have you looked at a NIStune instead of Power FC

look at getting bigger dump pipes

[KPCresta]

I had -5's on my GTR when I purchased it orginally (-5's / Power FC / Tomei 260 cams) and would definitely NOT recommend it on a 2.6 engine.

The top end power was just not worth the lack of response and torque down low.......

[Ambi3nce]

Your list has all you really need for e85, like other said, go for bigger injectors to give more head room. Deatschwerks 1200cc are around $650 for a set and very good for the price.

Add a 450L or so pump for a few hundred bucks, you will probably need some new higher capacity wiring to it which is pretty cheap to.

Also another thing to consider is the cost of a powerfc + profec B is getting pretty close to a $2000 ecu,

All you need is a $60 mac valve and all your boost control is handled by a much more advanced and fail safe unit.

From all the reading and testimonials of -5s I got, perfect on a stroker build, but not ideal for 2.6. Personal preference but I hate waiting much above 4K RPM for boost on a street car.

EDIT: If you have the long nose oil crank engage, or you buy the collar, I was told probably better to stick with the stock pump. Its the gears that fail. Can find billet gears for around the $400 mark. A really high flowing pump will do more harm than good on a stock motor unless you pull the head off and fit a smaller restrictor.

Edited December 8, 2014 by Ambi3nce

[KrayzieGTR]

Hey guys,

Thanks for all the replies and insight. I have taken sometime to look a little further into everyone comments and spoke with the mechanic that will be helping me with the build. I think i have pretty much finalised what i want to do and the direction i am going to head in. We are going to slow the build down a little bit and throw a few extra $$$ to make sure i dont have to do it again.

Please have a look at the list below if you have the time and let me know your thoughts and suggestions, i looking forward to getting some parts finally ordered and getting stuck into it.

Turbo - GT2859R-9's - finally decided on these with either the Garret or maybe HKS actuators if i can get them (not sure PSi). Thanks to the feedback here and further reading it looks like they will best suit my situation, so thanks again.

-Factory Cooler, Piping and BOVs etc.

Oil - this is something i am still not 100% sure on with the different information but thinking if crank doesn't need replacing then just get the collar and either upgrade the factory pump with better gear (not sure if OK with old pump) or just replace it with a N1 Std Flow Pump. I am also fitting a 1.5mm Restrictor and Tomei Sump Baffle Plates.

Head - Looking to find a shop to clean up and flow the head

-New valve stem seals, guides, reseat etc.

I am also now looking to get some very mild upgrade cams (maybe 250/260 area??) and adj cam gears. and check/replace springs if required.

Fuel - As i said i already have a Bosch 040 in tank and Nismo adj pressure reg already fitted. Looking to upgrade the injectors but am still not 100% sure of size just yet. I initially like the Nismo 600cc's but not sure they will be enough.

Block - We are going to pull the engine and see what we find to start with. I am looking to keep the standard crank, pistons and rods if it is tested OK but will get everything balanced with a new OEM Harmonic Balancer. If things are as good as the compression and leak down tests down recently seemed then hopefully the plan will be.

-ACL bearings all round

-New piston rings with a hone only (if piston and bores etc are good),

-ARP Rod bolts

-ARP Head Studs.

-Full Nismo replacement gasket and seal kit

-Pulley Kit (although not sure if really needed)

-Belt Replacement (have no idea of brand)

-Nismo engine and trans mounts

ECU - Decided, after many strong recommendeds, to look into other options other than PFC, but not in a big rush as it is one of the last things i need to do. Nistune, Vipec, Haltech ??? Boost Control will be based on the ECU.

Other - OEM Water Pump Replacement

-Low temp Thermo

-Full heater hose replacement OEM

-Fit full turbo back exhaust system (3" from CAT back). Will probably fit new CAT and muffler, and recomendations

-Already have a R33 box and Exedy Twin Plate

I have tried to do as much as possible to make it a srong reliable car while maintaining a fair bit of Factory/OEM about it. Im sure pleanty will have opinions and i would like you to share it if possible.

I also wouldn't mind some advice on -

-Cam sizes

-injector sizes

-Using ported factory exhaust manifolds

-Workshops for head work, crank balancing and tuning which is all stuff i dont have any idea about.

Thanks guys, i would love your feedback.

[KrayzieGTR]

By the way... if any one has any new or used items from my list above they would like to get rid of be sure to let me know

[SiR_RB]

I would take the engine out and only do the things that can't be done later on !

Tomei sump baffles

Reimax oil pump gears

New metal intake gasket kit and exhaust gaskets

New hoses under plenum

Turbos/dump pipes

Give it a clean and put it back in

You can do injectors/fuel pump later on

Goodluck

[KrayzieGTR]

I would take the engine out and only do the things that can't be done later on !

Tomei sump baffles

Reimax oil pump gears

New metal intake gasket kit and exhaust gaskets

New hoses under plenum

Turbos/dump pipes

Give it a clean and put it back in

You can do injectors/fuel pump later on

Goodluck

Cheers SirRB, that is pretty much where we are at for now although we will have a look at the internals too just to make sure nothing major there. Once the things are done that require the engine out and it been put back in I can take my tie with the rest of the build to make sure I do it right and don't shortcut anything.

I'm still after some suggestions about the last few details if anyone can give any insight to my situation.

-Cam durations and lift

-injector sizes

-Using ported factory exhaust manifolds

-Workshops for head work, crank balancing and tuning which is all stuff i dont have any idea about.

I appreciate all the feedback from everyone.

[Anfanee]

Standard Cams and Tomei adjustable cam gears. Maybe Tomei type R cams if im nit picking. I wen't the Type B cams cause lumpy brap brap

Injectors get ID1000 (nothing else, these are fantastic i can't praise them enough)

can use ported factory manifolds. Depends on $$$$ or tomei or whatever.

Workshops dont know as differs depending on location.

Full nitto internals. for the price it's 100% worth it. Remember the car is 20+ years old.

Consider a nitto oil pump as well.

For the ECU i got a PFC. I'm now having to spend an extra $700 ontop swapping into a haltech. if you even think you will want a haltech later, get one to begin with.

Considering how long it takes to put an engine together i would go the haltech to begin with.

Remember the -7's are nothing to laugh at. Mine made 320Awkw on 98 and currently in getting e85 expecting 350awkw.

but yes the -9's are great turbos.

[KrayzieGTR]

btw would anyone here suggest that it is worth doing the cams and adj. gears at the same time as getting the head refreshed etc. I have heard this is the best way as they can fit the cams and shim the valves etc. at the same time?? does that sound right?

[Anfanee]

Just do cam gears and leave the stock cams (unless they are fooked)