Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  On 04/12/2014 at 6:35 AM, Hadouken said:

2k will get you a link g4 and a tune. Sell pfc for 500-700 and that will buy you a eflex sensor and map sensor with some change. Sell afm and have more coin.

$2k for a G4, installed and tuned? I'll take 10!

  • Like 1
  On 04/12/2014 at 7:04 AM, r32-25t said:

The ones that are still using afms are using very different designs to the ones that were around in the 90s

They are not! There's not any real difference in concept between a 1989 Nissan hotwire and the ones they are using in the R35. The new ones are better thought out with respect to reversion, but that's really about the extent of the technical difference between them.

With the average Joe as 90% of us are with a 300 odd kw car with the odd track day thrown in, a pfc or similar with afms is adequate,as it was in the 90s. An engine still needs it's air, fuel and spark managed today as it did 15 years ago.

A second hand PFC and a set of Nismo AFM's is the best bit of $1,500. A decent ECU like a G4 is only a few hundred more. It's a no brainer. You get a car that drives so much nicer and is crisper under the foot.

yeah scored my powerfc for the gtr for $400nzd. scored 2 x rb25 afms for $80 for both.... MAF's are far easier to tune with rather than doing tuning across different corrections.e.g map & tps + air temp.etc.

Well I have seen Jem sell the platinum pro for $1800 so I should get away with under $2k by the time I get any extras and sell my PFC.

I don't understand that it says it has an 'internal map' upto 1.5 bar boost but I can buy an 'external map' for upto 3 bar .. Surely both sensors would mount and read pressure the same, just with a different pressure range?

I don't know why you would even consider a 15 year old ECU now. Technology has moved forward a long way.

You can buy an affordable ECU that is Australian designed for not much money. I went with Adaptronic and it has been in the car (stock R34 GTT) for about a week. I have never tuned a car before, and there are a LOT of options but it is rapidly making sense to me. I would say that my car already drives better than the factory ECU. Haltech will also be a good choice I'm sure, but I saw a few names I trust on here say Adaptronic is great and I'm very happy with the quality of the product and ease of use.

Next step ID1000's, then FMIC/turbo.. woohoo

i swapped my PFC for my Haltech PP, car drives so much better.
haltech

io expander

boost controller

external map sensor 3 bar from memory

eflex sensor

all up i think was around $3200-$3400

could sell your power fc and afm for around $1000.

so you would be paying roughly 2k or a tad over for all your new ecu gear.

Edited by kaneryan

To answer your original question, outright power wont change, tuned exactly the same peak power and tq is governed by engine spec, condition etc.

Everything before peak power the difference can be minimal to 20hp in certain areas (although very rare). The newer ecu's have some compensation tables which help with drivability. 5Hp is noticeable to most in off boost power

Then it comes down to features, pay more you get more. If you hardly use them, your paying for wank factor. If you compete with your car and have a dog box or better, launch and flat change will be worth it. On a street car you will eat syncros if used often. So start going to the gym now so you can do a gearbox R/R by yourself.

The only time more map resolution is of benefit is when you have something funky going on- more common on NA engines with harmonics. The director of a large ECU company told me many years ago that they can do 100x100, but its just time entering zones repeatedly and at a starting price of $120 per hour for tuning it will add up.

On the street (and forums or even friends too) there is a lot of "you should" this and that and in a perfect world where money/time, car off the road is no object, sure! For this reason, anyone who asks about my car, its stock with an exhaust and im happy with it, I don't have to listen to their BS or questions.

If it was me, I would use the PFC and go from there. Why? Because I know guys who can map one from initialize to done in less then an hour which includes a lot of drivability and economy stuff. Sit it overnight for cold start and its done. Then go from there

  • Like 1
  On 04/12/2014 at 3:38 AM, djr81 said:

Because I am not wholly convinced that AFM are the antichrist and MAP sensors are entirely awesome and because I am not across the detail of the Haltec and don't have a good understanding of the compromises involved in the two options as they relate to the ECU.

You will think tbey are the antichrist when you give it a squirt onto a merge lane on a freeway and you pop a cooler pipe behind the bar & your car is undriveable ;)
  On 06/12/2014 at 10:34 AM, kaneryan said:

i swapped my PFC for my Haltech PP, car drives so much better.

haltech

io expander

boost controller

external map sensor 3 bar from memory

eflex sensor

all up i think was around $3200-$3400

could sell your power fc and afm for around $1000.

so you would be paying roughly 2k or a tad over for all your new ecu gear.

I would save a bit more skipping the e-flex gear, what is the io expander?

I'm not sure what this 'random cough' with the PFC is, I haven't experienced it, although I have t got anything to compare it to either.

Is the Haltec PP is plug and play then I wonder what would have been done to my original wiring to fit the apexi? I would need to revert the wiring to standard to fit the Haltec?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Latest Posts

    • I can see between the water jacket and cyl 3 there wasn't a hard line of combustion gas. It certainly appears that the issue is coming from there. Yes, checked the tension. All at 100ft lbs where I set them 5 years ago. These blocks can crack but generally when they have been over bored. Mine is only 0.5mm oversize at 89.5mm. They break between cylinders around the 91mm mark. No sign of that with mine. My gut feeling is the head gasket lifted a while back when the studs stretched and i bandaided it by retorquing the studs. It's finally let go.
    • My Nismo 1.5 churps a bit on reverse turns when cold, but besides that feels like a stock diff.
    • Yes, but, I paid cash and I'm pretty sure the receipt was in the bin 10 minutes after I got home Note to self, keep all receipts
    • Bunnings would have just handed you your money back on that one!
    • So, version 4 intake is on its way I was looking at these a while ago but at around $200 or more it was a little pricey for something that might not work, but, I had it in my watch list, but, I got a message saying it was on special, and I had a code thingie to use, it eventually came in at $120 delivered, so BAM, BUY NOW.....LOL I'll need to have a look when it arrives but I feel it will "look" better than what I currently have, as it comes with a PCV fitting, so I will be able to get rid of the alloy pipe that goes to the throttle body with the PCV fitting  Well, that's what the voices in my head are telling me  Oh, and this happened today Yeap, it was a Trojan, and it was cheap, so I headed back to the hardware store and actually spent a little bit more on a heavy duty,  one that was actually recommended by a plumber mate, a Cyclone one with a fibreglass handle that is actually rated for clay The broken shovel will eventually be "modified" into a short handle shovel
×
×
  • Create New...