Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I found the stock specs of the NEO turbo cams, they aren't to bad from factory, I'd start at 7 deg advanced on intake and 5 deg retarded on exhaust and tune from there

Otherwise the 252s would be better for response then the 260s

Just realised you have VCT on inlet so no adjusting there :(

I found the stock specs of the NEO turbo cams, they aren't to bad from factory, I'd start at 7 deg advanced on intake and 5 deg retarded on exhaust and tune from there

Otherwise the 252s would be better for response then the 260s

Just realised you have VCT on inlet so no adjusting there :(

Pretty sure ben has a way of easily adjusting intake cam on neo that im going to look into, How do you feel the 252s would affect midrange and response?

34geeteetee is making 395rwkw with the factory cams in his r34, so really you should save your money and put it towards something more useful

I am under the impression he is using tomei B cams? He is also using E85 which is not an option for me.

It is not a case of saving money or not, i have already purchased type B cams, springs, retainers shims etc.. If it is going to make an Improvement then i might as well do it, but if it is going to be considered a performance Decrease then i should bin the cams for something more suitable.

Perhaps i should start a new thread so i don't derail OP's any further. I am looking more for NEO, specific advise, im not convinced results from rb25 or r33 rb25 would mimic results of the neo

You will see a 10kw gain in the top the issue is will you lose anything in the bottom end and how much!

Cause you'll be surprised the difference losing power from the bottom of the range makes to the overall driving experience

And seriously 10kw can be had by screwing in another 1-2psi of boost and is a lot cheaper that way

  • Like 1

34geeteetee is making 395rwkw with the factory cams in his r34, so really you should save your money and put it towards something more useful

I need to check that.

I'm 99 percent sure he is using type b cams and has raved about them.

Edited by Ben C34
Peak Power Comparison

(for Stock Cat. Equiped Cars)

TYPE A 405 ps
TYPE B 406.33 ps
TYPE R 404.65 ps

So at just over 400ps you make under 2hp less but some on here say lag can improve by 800rpm... I wonder what the difference in power is like at 700ps and 8500rpm

I currently have Grex (Trust) drop in cams that came with the car, as far as I'm aware they came in either 256/256 or 264/264 9.1. Always pondered how much I would kill top end power with the Tomei Type-R, can always do with more midrange :)

Edited by SimonR32

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Has equal chance of cleaning an AFM and f**king an AFM. I think you can work out what happened. When the Hitachi ECU sees the AFM die and goes into the associated limp mode, then it will start and run just fine, because it ignores the AFM and just runs on idle maps that will do what it needs to get it going. But there is no proper load signal, so that's about all it can do. My suggestion? If you don't want to go full aftermaket ECU, then get some R35 GTR AFM cards and some housings to put them in, in the stock location, and Nistune the ECU. Better to do a good upgrade than just replace shitty 40 year old tech with the same 40 year old tech.
    • So my car was recently having trouble starting on initial crank, I would need to feather the gas for it to start up but besides that it would start and run fine. So I clicked the idle air control valve (with throttle body cleaner) and cleaned the MAF sensors (with MAF cleaner). The start up issue was fixed and now the car turns over without the assist of the throttle, but the car is in limp mode and wont rev past 2.5k RPM. From what I understand the IACV would not put the car in limp mode, so I am to believe it is the MAF sensors, but it was running fine before and now I cant get it out of limp mode. I cleaned the MAF made sure the o rings were seated properly. Made sure the cables were plugged in properly, the cables also both read the same voltage. Does anybody know why this is or what could be causing this or how to get it out of limp mode?
    • Ooo I might actually come and bring the kids, however will leave the shit box home and take the daily
    • Thanks. Yeah I realised that there's no way I'd be able to cover the holes with the filler, it would just fall through. Thanks again @GTSBoy!
    • That was the reason I asked. If you were going to be fully bodge spec, then that type of filler is the extreme bodge way to fill a large gap. But seeing as you're going to use glass sheet, I would only use that fibre reinforced filler if there are places that need a "bit more" after you've finished laying in the sheet. Which, ideally, you wouldn't. You might use a blob of it underneath the sheet, if you need to provide some support from under to keep the level of your sheet repair up as high as it needs to be, to minimise the amount of filler you need on top. Even though you're going bodge spec here, using glass instead of metal, the same rules apply wrt not having half inch deep filler on the top of the repair. Thick filler always ends up shitting the bed earlier than thin filler.
×
×
  • Create New...