Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Awesome thread...just read all 4 pages and will keep an eye on this!!

Keep up the great work buddy! [emoji106]

Cheers Lifted! It's good to hear!

I haven't done much else to the car since getting back on the road but I'm already scheming on what else to do.

Couple of things in the works but I need to keep saving towards it all. Post christmas we should have some nice updates here.

I had a sub and amp in the garage from a few months ago so I got some 4AWG wire out and crimped some lugs onto it and wired it up. It's good to have a little bass again in the car. While there, I pulled out the fuel pump harness out and checked nothing was burned out and it all looks sweet so I'm happy about that.

Stay tuned

Bought this to see if it will help with boost control

2015-12-26_17-35-08_zpswszz7fg8.png

Not so keen on my turbo at the moment, It seems to struggle with boost control hence the decision to go with the above actuator. The tuner said it opens around 9psi which is a bit absurd for something that is supposed to hold up to 20PSI. I'm also finding it struggles to even make 12psi in any gear but 4th and 5th which makes the turbo pretty useless for my application. I'm guessing this is actuator related or turbo related - I'm no SME so I could be wrong.

Stay tuned, actuator is due sometime this week.

external for the win!! but that doesn't sound right, stao would have your answer surely, makes some good turbo's, my bro's SS2 impressed me on 12psi, was similar to my old setup with 3076,

That dyno graph looks like my GTX3076 was like, hit 4500rpm and all hell broke lose.. bit late for me but a shitload of fun depending on what you like and your goals.. still a great drive regardless with heaps of potential though. nothing better than an angry RB :thumbsup:

Edited by AngryRB
  • Like 1

external for the win!! but that doesn't sound right, stao would have your answer surely, makes some good turbo's, my bro's SS2 impressed me on 12psi, was similar to my old setup with 3076,

That dyno graph looks like my GTX3076 was like, hit 4500rpm and all hell broke lose.. bit late for me but a shitload of fun depending on what you like and your goals.. still a great drive regardless with heaps of potential though. nothing better than an angry RB :thumbsup:

Cheers Mark, he gave me some insight but we still went back to it being the cooler causing the problems. I've seen others perform better with the same cooler. Heaps laggy but I believe e85 will fix that ;)

Went for a nice drive earlier tonight - Home to Galston, Galston to Gosford through Old Pac and back down again. I took some pictures at Galston but have only edited two for now - Will upload more tomorrow

R33%20Rear%202_zpsnuobpixa.jpg

R33%20Rear_zps5gd5xjjo.jpg

  • Like 3

Never ending battle with this car.

Started the morning early and just lost track of time.

I had a plan today to go though the suspension components, clean them up, check bushes, ball joints and so on.

Found that both hicas ball joints are stuffed so I'll order an elimination kit this week. I also found that my rear tires are incredibly bald from what looks like bad camber wear. When I went to a tire shop last they said keep an eye on the rear camber because the rear squats which tends to give more camber leading to more wear.

I'll order these on Tuesday

http://www.otomoto.com.au/p/4116518/kkr-rear-camber-arms-type-2.html

http://www.otomoto.com.au/p/8219182/kkr-hicas-elimination-kit-for-nissan-hicas-systems.html

I also found that my front two tie rod ends are buggered. I always wanted to get a decent set of arms for alignment I guess now is my chance lol. I mounted my ECU properly with a bracket and tidied it up. Doesnt look so tidy without the trim panels but you get the gist. Found out my cat is actually in good condition despite the treatment it's gotten from me as of late.

Pics as always

http://s812.photobucket.com/user/kingtube69/media/457F2C74-890C-4A06-8B25-83B112CAA433_zpsj5f5oit7.jpg.html?o=7

08606DA3-3D90-4C77-A4CF-D72D05590F9B_zps

F4AEF36E-4D70-4C68-9B41-0D224C740BDE_zps

6BBA27DF-7284-4D83-A77E-071524D70E9B_zps

E985A4CD-65B5-43C2-9A3B-93A7F13B4F77_zps

looks mint, sits nicely, where do you get the window trim/shields from?

Can you adjust the camber to get extra tyre contact or will the tyres rub the wheel arch?

Edited by AngryRB

External gate on housing and E85 or meth injection and would be a totally different beast, probably smash 350kw's, i was on 280kw 98 then 320 with lots of room to spare... even with restrictive jap middle muffler...

looks mint, sits nicely, where do you get the window trim/shields from?

Can you adjust the camber to get extra tyre contact or will the tyres rub the wheel arch?

Thanks ARB - Got them from JustJap. I wasn't keen on them first but they grew on me

$99 IIRC :D Get some!

RE camber, I think I'm at max adjustment for the rear unfortunately

Needs single cell cat:D. May even get you into the 300 clubB)

I would LOVE to do this but I've had enough trouble with NSW HWP in the past that I don't want to give them an excuse to pull me over - 6 foot flames might be a dead give away ;)

External gate on housing and E85 or meth injection and would be a totally different beast, probably smash 350kw's, i was on 280kw 98 then 320 with lots of room to spare... even with restrictive jap middle muffler...

Yep, I was talking to Adam from JEM re the external gate and he thinks its a good idea. That coupled with E85 should get me to a happy territory. Just need to sort out this boost restriction now. Stao is adamant that its the cooler so I'll run some tests for him and I in the coming days to prove/disprove the issue.

What did you have done to get 320?

interested to see how the turbo goes, not really selling me confidence to also purchase one

It does go really well - It's probably suited for someone chasing more power than I was with a less restrictive setup. Ideally if I were to do it again I would have got an SS2 with a gate off the housing.

The torque is nuts and the power is what I am looking for probably just a but too big for what I needed.

Nice looking car and build thread. I made 279 pump and 295rwkw on e85. SS2 turbo, stock manifolds. I was told external gate and custom exhaust manifold will give another 30kw

I believe just going decat alone nets roughly 10kw which would make things interesting also. Same goes for external gate, should see similar results to what you posted.

I'm quite happy with the power I made on 98 just a bit too lagy. Good power from your build - Have you got a link to your build thread I can have a look at?

be good to see if the boost issue is now fixed

I wouldn't say its an "issue" as such just a "feature" I'm not used to. I'm not sure how it should actually be - Is it normal to not reach full boost in every gear but the higher ones? With my old turbo (maybe because it was smaller) it would get full boost every gear without a question.

For anyone wondering, I did see better results with the boost controller plumbed to the charge pipe which makes sense because that's post intercooler. Still not making as much as I'd like though - e.g. made 17psi this morning on third gear loading onto the M4.

I really want to get a new cooler now just undecided on which one. But then again I need new tires and coilovers first I guess.

Thanks for reading guys!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • That's the thing....the basics of fuel and ignition are deceptively simple.....getting it to behave like factory in all conditions after airflow mods is way more complex. Newer cars like the V37 are all about modifying the standard ECU which is about a billion times more complex than they were 20 years ago, with a bunch of parameters affecting others
    • The larger TB I had on the SS was a pain to get to idle right, but, that was cable In the end they just raised the idle up a couple of hundred RPM so it was happy idling away either in gear or in park (slush box life) I'm curious on how my NC will idle with the new intake, larger TB, and cams that are currently going in/on, but I have faith that MX5 Mania will sort this "electronical" "black magic" out the best they can in the tune with a electronic TB Sometimes I wish I knew more about the intricacies of tuning, but most of the time I don't because I know it would hurt my brain 馃ぃ
    • That's the thing. Cam is smaller than before.. though the old cam was +6 degrees advanced. We're talking huge changes here, the narrowbands want to trim out 20% of fuel and pull the (wideband) idle to like 16.0 AFR or such. One side is a little more trimmy than the other. Think along the lines of ~20% to ~15-18%. Unfortunately my scouring of the internet hasn't really found anyone with this issue. People either just disable NB's or have them wildly different, where one is -20% and the other is +20 or 0 (i.e a sensor is just dead/wiring is just busted). Turning them off and relying on the base map only results in the wideband reporting at about 14.0 with the Varex closed. It'd be a little leaner (closer to 14.7ish) with the Varex open. I know I can just change the switch points so that the narrowbands agree with the wideband, but it's still odd. Both of them are reading voltage, it's just that they're reading quite high mv, in the ~800 region. It's just odd. This was with the IAT fudged to report it was about ~22 degrees which is my guesstimation of the temperature in the room. I have an OEM sensor ready to try tonight, which is slow and crap - but .. worked last time I used it. Sadly I am aware that idle tuning with the big TB is going to be a PITA and I look 'forward' to many hours spent stalling or stumbling idle or delving into drivability things.
    • The GTR strut brace clears the new manifold.. by about 0.5mm. So this means I need to buy an OEM GTT Strut brace (again), which will clear the new manifold, but not the bonnet vents. I guess I can sell the GTR Strut brace with the bonnet with the vents as a package deal as someone will need this one day. So my choices are vented bonnet but no strut brace, or GTR Bonnet with OEM brace (which I have to buy) but is bright red instead of the same colour as the rest of the car, which means the entire front end of the car will just be red until it goes back to paint jail. In other news the engine starts and doesn't leak. Why both O2 narrowband sensors think the tune is rich AF I do not know. The idle is also pretty shitty and my expensive IAT sensor from the USA is dead. The car sounds awful. But I assume or at least hope this is due to the many exhaust leaks, and the concrete garage it is in, sitting there with 0 intake bolted to it, and no bonnet or panels or anything to stop the induction/intake sound which is about 200db.
  • Create New...