Jacob's R33 Gtst S2

[GeorgeLow]

So clean. Your engine bay is clean as hell along with the carbon.

[Milkmun]

Hey man, ever figure out what was causing that leak in the footwell?

[admS15]

Good luck at the drags tonight. Hope you've practised those launches. Whats always worked well for me is working out what revs you need to take off without bog or too much wheel spin and then feeding (riding) the clutch to create boost, then launch that bitch and hope you got it all right. It's a bit of a balancing act but works well when your on street tyres. For example in my car I hold the revs at about 3 to 3.5k, start feeding that clutch in and as soon as I start hearing spool I steadily keep releasing the clutch while mashing the throttle to the floor. Usually results in a slingshot take off with a slight bit of wheel spin in 1st. If you get it wrong you will either bog or fry the tyres. You can also use the handbrake to help u remain stationary, if u do that though, just don't forget to release it once your going.

[MC-WOSHY]

Wow and this is why I'm petrified of compression testing my motor. But like you said lucky it was only one of the springs. That lifter free stuff does the trick hey????

As for why no driving for 6 months, you are correct. Something I'm not proud of either but you live and learn. Was in the national park going a fraction too fast at the start of Op saturation early last year.

Yeah, I'm glad it was only that not the rings!

It sucks to think about it, but at least you will know haha

Yeah Lifter-Free was good

[kingtube69]

So clean. Your engine bay is clean as hell along with the carbon.

Thanks GL, I tryyyyyy to keep it clean but there is still some stuff I'm unhappy with

Hey man, ever figure out what was causing that leak in the footwell?

I think its the windscreen seal or door seals because I sealed what I thought it was and it still leaked

Do you have a similar problem?

Good luck at the drags tonight. Hope you've practised those launches. Whats always worked well for me is working out what revs you need to take off without bog or too much wheel spin and then feeding (riding) the clutch to create boost, then launch that bitch and hope you got it all right. It's a bit of a balancing act but works well when your on street tyres. For example in my car I hold the revs at about 3 to 3.5k, start feeding that clutch in and as soon as I start hearing spool I steadily keep releasing the clutch while mashing the throttle to the floor. Usually results in a slingshot take off with a slight bit of wheel spin in 1st. If you get it wrong you will either bog or fry the tyres. You can also use the handbrake to help u remain stationary, if u do that though, just don't forget to release it once your going.

I WISH i read this earlier

Had a terrible night, crap times the whole night except my last run which was still slow but I slipped the clutch and it launched pretty good just not enough RPM at launch I think. I've done the handbrake thing before but its a pain in the ass lol I've forgotten countless times.

I kept frying the tires when I was launching at the same RPM I did on the Sunday meet. One of the officials mentioned the track is not Preppd like it was for the Sunday meet and normal races because its just a regular street meet which is kind of annoying.

Yeah, I'm glad it was only that not the rings!

It sucks to think about it, but at least you will know haha

Yeah Lifter-Free was good

I had what sounded like a stuck lifter, changed the oil and it came good but I wish I knew about this stuff

Thanks all for reading through the drama of my 33

[admS15]

Yep, taking off at the drag strip on street tyres is a pain. If you want to get a really good time, you really need to run proper tyres like mt's or hoosier and ideally on a 15" or 16" rim. That way you have some flex in the walls of the tyre. Soft rear shocks go a long way too. I still think you should easily get into the 12's on street rubber and possibly 11's on drag tyres

[kingtube69]

Yep, taking off at the drag strip on street tyres is a pain. If you want to get a really good time, you really need to run proper tyres like mt's or hoosier and ideally on a 15" or 16" rim. That way you have some flex in the walls of the tyre. Soft rear shocks go a long way too. I still think you should easily get into the 12's on street rubber and possibly 11's on drag tyres

Hmm thats what I struggle with, I have no idea what size Hoosier or MTs to get because I don't know what will fit under there.. Any ideas?

I was talking to Adam from JEM and he recommended Federal RSR-Rs or the MT ET Streets so I'll try one or the other

[admS15]

Hmm thats what I struggle with, I have no idea what size Hoosier or MTs to get because I don't know what will fit under there.. Any ideas?

I was talking to Adam from JEM and he recommended Federal RSR-Rs or the MT ET Streets so I'll try one or the other

I have no idea. Maybe start a new thread about tyres for drag. I don't think rsr's will be that great for drag either. Et streets should do OK. I would think you would need to get some cheap ford 15 or 16 inch steel wheels that fit and throw the widest drag tyre that fits on. Again I'm no expert, best to get info from guys that have been there and done that in a r33.

[hy_rpm]

I ran et streets on my old 180sx and it was a slingshot

Wouldn't even spin 1st gear jumping on the throttle and when you smash gears just chirped

This was at 260kw and on street tyres it would spin coming on to boost in second and if you were game would fry thirds if the clutch gripped

[kingtube69]

I have no idea. Maybe start a new thread about tyres for drag. I don't think rsr's will be that great for drag either. Et streets should do OK. I would think you would need to get some cheap ford 15 or 16 inch steel wheels that fit and throw the widest drag tyre that fits on. Again I'm no expert, best to get info from guys that have been there and done that in a r33.

I found a few threads but I think I need to look into it more. Sounds like a great start tho.

Why are you not fond of the RSR-Rs?

I ran et streets on my old 180sx and it was a slingshot

Wouldn't even spin 1st gear jumping on the throttle and when you smash gears just chirped

This was at 260kw and on street tyres it would spin coming on to boost in second and if you were game would fry thirds if the clutch gripped

That's great news! Thank you for sharing your experience. I'll try and grab some but I have NFI about the whole radial v non radial which makes no sense to me lol.

Small update:

New radiator arrived last week - I didn't realise how small the factory rad was till I looked at it the other day

Nismo cap

Unfortunately I couldn't do any of the work this weekend because JustJap had no thermostats and It was too late for me to order from Kudos. None the less I ordered the thermostat and a new radiator fan because mine is cracked in a thousand places. More Pics to come next week.

[admS15]

Don't get me wrong about the federal rsrr, its a great tyre especially at its price point. I used to run them on my s15. The thing is they're more of a circuit tyre than drag. To get the absolute best possible time at the drag strip, a proper drag tyre is needed. Just food for thought.

[kingtube69]

Don't get me wrong about the federal rsrr, its a great tyre especially at its price point. I used to run them on my s15. The thing is they're more of a circuit tyre than drag. To get the absolute best possible time at the drag strip, a proper drag tyre is needed. Just food for thought.

I'm happy to take the advice of someone with experience

[kingtube69]

Pictures from the other night. My neighbours weren't too happy about me bleeding the radiator at night which is understandable I guess.

http://i812.photobucket.com/albums/zz45/kingtube69/B784A603-E15F-4AD7-8211-

Stuff you won't see is the new fan (can't be seen properly) and the thermostat business. I hate the spot for the thermostat in these things and what makes it worse is that you need to use gasket maker and not an o-ring. FML.

On a positive note the car hasn't climbed past 82 in the recent Sydney heat which is a massive improvement over the average 95 it was getting to in Sydney heat.

Rego is coming up in the next fortnight so that's on my to-do list and takes priority over stuff like a new diff and coils unfortunately.

[kingtube69]

Car is out of action for a few weeks at least now. I'm going to buy a new car this week as a daily too.

Clutch dropped to the floor tonight on the way out, pedal wouldn't return so I limped home in second gear and bled the clutch again. We managed to get some feel back but the fork seems to be stuck halfway causing the slave to overextend to work. I've asked on the SAU FB page and its likely that the fork is snapped or something is wrong with the throw out bearing assembly so I'll be keeping it off the road for a few weeks till I get motivated to fix it.

The best words from a good friend that cheered me up were "You don't drive a heavily modified car and expect it to be perfect 100% of the time".

Stay tuned for pictures of the new car!

[kingtube69]

Car is definitely out of action for now. It looks like the clutch fork popped off the bearing carrier or something of the sort. Fork looks crooked and when you look in the box it looks out of place.

As mentioned, I bought a new car - N15 Pulsar Automagic as the daily with 124,000 kms on it for dirt cheap so that will do for now.

Mine is the green one

The plan of attack is to order parts below and take it to my friends Dad's workshop to get done because I don't have the patience to do this all over again.

*All parts are Genuine and New*

- Clutch fork

- Slave Cylinder (Lucky number 3)

- Throwout carrier

- Throwout carrier retaining spring

- Clutch fork retaining spring

- New redline fluid

- Throwout bearing

- Boot that goes over the fork

I'm seriously praying that nothing is wrong with the clutch assembly because I'll be pi$$ed. It wasn't cheap when I bought it all.

[admS15]

It looks like possibly a cracked clutch fork or pivot ball. I hope so, that would be an easy fix. P.s pulsar needs a turbo[emoji3]

[kingtube69]

It looks like possibly a cracked clutch fork or pivot ball. I hope so, that would be an easy fix. P.s pulsar needs a turbo[emoji3]

Hoping its not the pivot, That's a new Nismo one

HAHAHAHA! Pulsar is supposed to be the comfortable daily so I don't keep smashing up the kms on the Skyline aaaaaannnddd it's so uncomfortable to drive daily. I won't lie, a turbo would make it fun, it's gutless at the moment!

[kingtube69]

Ordered all the parts needed for repair now - I'll book it in to get worked on in the next two or three weeks.

Till then that is the end of this chapter!

[kingtube69]

photo taken with my potato

Parts arrived, I'll call up this week and book the car in for next week.

It's been a month now and I'm having withdrawal symptoms from boost

[kingtube69]

Car went into the workshop today and I have some obligatory photos to share. I took a bunch while it was at the shop but I won't upload them because it show's where it's at (will post after I get it back).

Tow truck was a bit late but we made it before the workshop closes. I gave them a big list of stuff to do including

Check starter motor as it sounded noisy as hell (i.e overrun on startup)

Check PS system as its also super noisy (was leaking though)

Change throwout bearing and assembly

Change clutch fork

Check whole clutch assembly including bolts for flywheel

Change slave and adjust

Change tailshaft bearing

Most of the parts I provided and they were fine with that (most shops hate that stuff) but it's all genuine Nissan gear. I asked if the shop was OK with that and they said they have no problem (it's a mates dad's workshop). I even offered them my contact details for parts and they said it's fine for me to order them.

Tow truck driver was super nice and careful with the car. He even freaked out when the bumper JUST touched the tray, I said don't worry about it.

Also plastidipped the centre garnish on my pulsar and the badges because I could.