Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys

Wondering if you can help me out with this annoying problem that has happened since changing to a 3' front/dump pipe and hi flow cat from its stock parts, the noise occurred straight after they bolted on those parts and on my way home the sound is like tiny rattling metallic or cicadas and it only happens on a certain RPM such as near the 2000 rpm range, i also noticed that the rattling sound only appears once the engine/exhaust is hot, the rattling is more pronounce from inside the cabin when driving against a wall.

The cat and front/dump pipe has no heat shield so it cannot be them.

I took my car back to them to see the problem and they said they don't hear anything when driving my car other than the turbo spool up louder then before but everyone that has sat in my car before now notices it too, they also took apart the cat to see if perhaps anything is inside (nothing) and re tighten the bolts but still to me the annoying sound is still there and they said they don't hear anything.

On a another issue (Sorry if i am asking too much ) but I've read on many forums that after changing the dump pipe i need to get a tune to prevent boost rising or detonation etc, but i have personally been to my local mechanics and they say it is not necessary unless i am chasing big power or getting more KW out of my pipes and cats.

My GTT is an auto and is pretty much stock with these aftermarket pipes and cat, i am not chasing big power and not after attention that is why i just changed to these 3' pipes and cat but left the catback stock to avoid attention however from what i have read is dangers of boost rising, detonation, o2 sensor and ecu problems has made me thinking i need to get a tune to stop my car from blowing up.

What do you guys/girls think as on forums they say a tune is a must but my mechanics say it is not needed. This is confusing the crap out of me......

Dunno about the noise but you won't need a tune.

Get some fibreglass tape heat wrap onto the dump and see if that kills the noise. It's worth it anyway to stop it cooking the engine bay.

Okay thanks for the tip, i did see that my engine bay was more hotter than usual when i got home, i see if supercheap auto has them.

Truth is it does change your tune, the exhaust is now more "flowable" therefore making it easier for the turbo to spool up, and it should now be making more boost than before (not much maybe 1-2psi more)

I learnt this when I upgraded my standard 34 gtt exhaust, and went and had it tuned with a piggy back + pod + ebc - made 210kw

Im kinda unsure of your question... so no you don't "have" to get it tuned, it will be fine without it, the standard ecu will cope with it, possibly by changing the timing or removing fuel from the map.

Turbo cars are much more sensitive to changes than N/A cars, so just remember everything you do has greater effects, definitely get looking through SAU archives for solid info.

And the rattle - I would never have taken my car to a shop to do a simple exhaust change over, but continuously return to the shop you got it done at till they fix it!!!!!!

Or take them for a drive, and show them.

If you've had a shop put your exhaust on, then it doesn't sound like your the kinda person who will undo all there work to find the problem, otherwise you would have done it yourself in the first place....

If the rattle occurs when the dump pipe gets hot, that means its coming into contact with something when the metal expands. When i had my 3inch dump pipe installed on my car, it also rattled, the exhaust shop kept adjusting the position until clearance was 100%. Id probably look into that first.

Also, its known for some RBs do have a certain level of piston slap (my old r33 had this above 2000rpm), maybe the bigger pipe is just amplifying the sound.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • When's the rear mounted turbo kit coming? Needs dose and V8 chop idle lol.
    • I was very unimpressed with how the car came up from the A pillar forward, before I hit things (twice). It all has to go. It had to go, but now it has to go... more. So we finally found the very first Shennanigans with the entirely perfectly setup engine that had no problems being pulled apart to improve on 'was perfectly fine'. Cam bearings looked a bit... stock. Which isn't entirely bad given they were stock and this is a ~20 year old engine. So new cam bearings are on the way because it's somewhat difficult to get to this stage to do it later, and it will trash the block. It was quite unusual that it wasn't done when the perfectly new-looking VCM cam was originally installed by [unknown] What IS unusual is the cam that was installed there was advanced SIX degrees. As to why there is no way to know.. however it could have been @Dose Pipe Sutututu's mate who wanted a larger cam sound but also wanted it to come on earlier to be more usable. This is my dyno sheet with the previous setup - This cam is not supposed to peak until 7000+ RPM, according to VCM. This is what lead me down the whole 'my heads/intake setup is running out of puff and can't support the cam' line of thinking to begin with. Anyway too late now - New cam is in! It could be rather funny if this smaller cam acts like a larger cam because it isn't advanced six degrees. In the spirit of everything is working amazingly - the COMP cam required no dialling in whatsoever. It was about 0.5 degrees advanced, which seems pretty bang on. Any adjustment either way would be further out. I'm told as a chain breaks in it ends up regarding back about 0.5 a degree as the chain breaks in, making it bang on. In the spirit of everything was previously working amazingly - The timing gear that was taken out turned out to be was an N-Motion double timing chain kit, with adjustable cam gear (which is how it was 6 degrees advanced) and all looks entirely perfectly new. It also had a Torrington bearing, which was one of the reasons I ended up getting the Cloyes kit which they used in the C5R 24 hour racecar - Because I couldn't confirm what was in the engine when talking to Tony Mamo. I did believe however it was a Double chain kit of some kind... but found no supporting documentation or evidence for it.
    • I recently did this to my R33 with the full set from Car Mats Direct, they can't do the vinyl anymore that's advertised on the website due to a supplier issue so I ended up with the Black Loop Pile which looks great. I went all out with rubber sound deadening sheets from Repco and also added the sound deadening foam layer option with the carpet. Makes a world of difference and got rid of all the weird smells in the 29 year old interior. It was a bit of work but I'd 100% recommend it, Car Mats Direct had awesome customer service and quick postage. Replaced my seats with some sporty ones from Autotechnia while I was at it, feels like a new car.
    • Got the motor out and torn down. I'll be dropping off the block Monday. Luckily the scoring on Cyl6 is much less pronounced then the pictures made it out to seem. It can barely be felt. If you pass your finger over it 10x you'll barely notice it. Hopefully by some chance it will only require a honing. I'm not in the mood to buy one size larger pistons or another block. Oddly enough my 6th cylinder with the scoring has extremely clean intake valves compared to my other 5 cylinders. I'm worried the scoring was caused by too much fuel or Water/Methanol washing the cylinder. I'll review some old logs to confirm.  This was also the first time I pull an engine with the transmission still attached. It went much better then expected. I was worried my CD009 wouldn't make it easy due to its sheer size but it was much easier this way. 
×
×
  • Create New...