Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey my car has just started getting a squeal from the rear brakes, the pads have been on there for years but i dont drive it much so when i looked there is lots of meat left on the pads, like alot and the rears dont have wear indicators on them like the front pads do so couldnt be wear indicator noise anyways, now im thinking it might be from the handbrake shoes on the inside of the disc, so my question is this common or even possible? i had a read up and i read that some people were getting squealing from there rear pads and they had to file the edges of the pads but its weird cos they have been good for years and have obviously bedded in so what are your thoughts on this?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/451493-squealing/
Share on other sites

The front brakes on my Pulsar were making grinding noises and had a wobble. Lots of meat still left on the old pads.

I replaced the rotors and pads with new cheapie stuff, silent and smooth (brakes better as well, pedal came up too). Food for thought.

When does the squeeling occur?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/451493-squealing/#findComment-7439332
Share on other sites

If it only squeals on braking, take the pads out, check if they have a 45 degree chamfer on the leading and trailing edges of the friction material, if not make them with a grinder, and thow a little copper grease on the back of the pads where they contact the piston and caliper.

Use it sparingly and dont get any between the pad and rotor contact face, or in other words the friction points.

Most noise is usually the pads backing rubbing against the caliper and piston contact points.

Glazed rotors will also produce noise, a light skim should bring them back to life if they are thick enough.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/451493-squealing/#findComment-7439376
Share on other sites

I have similar on the pathfinder, though only in reverse at low speed (it's a bitch when I'm trying to quietly reverse out of the garage at 4am).

Did all of the above and nothing helped. Meh I just keep the windows up and crank the tunes a bit louder - that seemed to make the problem go away.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/451493-squealing/#findComment-7439426
Share on other sites

deglaze them, drive up to 80-100 and brake hard on a quiet rd all the way to a stop. Do it 4-5 times in a row

If that doesn't stop it, pull the pads and do what gtrpsi said, while out also use pads on some emry paper and take off a layer (sand for about 30-60 seconds each). Gife the rotors a quick scuff.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/451493-squealing/#findComment-7439541
Share on other sites

thanks everyone for your info, yeah when i put the pads in years ago i cleaned the shims and coated them with the proper stuff exactly like im supposed to, as i said its been perfect for years and it just started happening and im still not sure if its coming from the pads or the handbrake shoes or even the bearings, i know i need to jack the rear up and give the wheels a turn to find out where its coming from exactly, but now that i have some hints from you guys it will make it much easier when i work oht whats making it squeal, oh and it starts for a second or two at highway speeds and almost constantly at low speeds

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/451493-squealing/#findComment-7439951
Share on other sites

If you stop then you are doing it incorrectly, and you dont have to engage first lol, thats probably just you burning up the road.

You are meant to get on the brakes from >80 down to say 10km/h, repeat a few times then let the brakes cool for a few minutes ,note you are still driving around, then repeat the whole process,

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/451493-squealing/#findComment-7440214
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Have you put an aftermarket oil pressure gauge on and verified your oil pressure?   Noise being on the block, on exhaust side, how high up the block does it seem to be? It could be the VCT system getting cranky, especially if it's mainly at idle, and when warm, as that'll be your lowest point for oil pressure. Could be showing that oil passages / VCT solenoid are blocking.
    • Well, hydraulic lifters will get noisy if they are dirty/fouled in some way, and exactly how that manifests will depend on exactly what schmutz is where. There is a procedure on here somewhere for dismantling and soaking/cleaning them. Replacing them with new is about 50% of the work and about 5% of the money!
    • Thanks for the reply @GTSBoy this is is a hydraulic lifter engine. Yea right i did not realise the lifters were supposed to be compressible while installed. I could push them down but i had to lean almost my while body weight on them.  I have never heard of a lifter/ lifters ticking only at hot idle and getting worse the hotter it gets. I have owned a few jdm cars with noisy lifters. This noise is slightly more subtle, it is more of a sharp gentle metalic tic than the solid and more loud tapping I've heard on lifters. I have used a metal rod, alloy tube, hose and stethoscope and could not find the source of the tick. But it appears to be loudest on the actual engine block behind the exhaust cam gear and next to the oil filter. I had mate (40 year old mechanic) go over it with me and he couldn't find it either..  Could it be a cam seal issue of some sort?  Cheers  
    • This seems problematic and unlikely at the same time. Vanilla RB2Xs have hydraulic lifters. They do have "zero" clearance, but only when running with oil pressure inside them. When not running, you should be able to compress them and obtain heaps of clearance. RB26s and Neos have solid lifters. They should have ~0.3mm and ~0.5mm on the inlet and exhaust respectively. If they have zero clearance then bad things are happening. With nothing else being wrong, it would mean that the valves would be held slightly (ever so slightly) open when they are supposed to be closed and it should have all sorts of problems when running, caused by leakage in/out through the valves. Or, zero clearance can indicate severe valve seat recession. None of it is good. Have you used a piece of hose as a stethoscope to try to localise the noise?  
×
×
  • Create New...