Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Cleaned the shed of diffs from my old track car, they have not had a lot of

use as they were spare diffs for various tracks, none have been used in the last 5 year

since I just run what I brung.

No drifting use, some road use as well, not abused on track. I would be classed as "smooth". I started track 15 years ago in a 400hp rx3 with a 2 way and tiny axles, I had to be gentile on the drivetrain as axles and LSD's were rare or super expensive and continued to drive that way.

All come with S13 rear covers so reuse your own if 2 bolt type. All are 5 bolt flange.

4.08 1/2 way interchangeable currently set to 1 way $850, I think its a kaaz (should have under 4k klm)

4.363 2 way $780 possibly tomei, maybe kaaz too (should have under 4k klm)

I only used factory oil + Castrol LSX lsd oil in all of my clutch LSD's

3.9 with viscous center $450

4.08 housing and gears only drop in your center, change rear cover if needed and go! $450

4.363 viscous $450

4.363 ratio only $260 shipped

4.363 crown wheel only (couldn't find the matching pinion $100 shipped)

Sorry I cant be more specific on the make of the aftermarket diff's, the tag either broke off or the writing faded so can only go off what I see

Pick up from Bankstown or Epping, currently can only ship just the 4.36 ratio as the others are too heavy to send via post.

Edited by sucram
  • 7 months later...
  • 1 month later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • careful when running the car after a boil over. Ive heard you can lose enough coolant that it won't show the right temps because of too much air in the system (or something like that). Make sure the levels are good before trying again.  Maybe a mobile mechanic can come have a look with their scan tool ?
    • OK, just for some extra clarity - there is more than one option at Frenchy's. 1. You can buy the whole kit - with or without the actual compressor. The whole kit includes mounts, hoses, condensor, etc. That's either ~$2200 or ~$2800. No surgery required with this option. 2. You can buy just the bracket (~$600), or the bracket with the compressor (~$1200). Either of this or the above option "without the compressor" is if you already have an Echo comp or you are able to source one locally. Whatever the case, in this option, you will need surgery done on your hoses to adapt to the new compressor. When I said "the Frenchy's kit", I meant the whole kit in option 1. It is obviously somewhat more $$ than a $1500 OEM compressor. But if I had to spend $1500 on an OEM compressor, I would certainly consider spending double that to renew and significantly update everything forward of the firewall. Another option is to rebuild your original compressor. My R34 comp is currently dead and I will be most likely doing that to it if the spare one in the shed is also leaky.
    • I’m thinking that’s the route I’ll  go, thanks for the input!
    • Hey all, my 2004 Nissan Skyline 350GT overheated the other day with coolant boiling and leaking out of the coolant reservoir when I was parking. So today, I started it up again just to see if it was a thermostat/head gasket issue. After about 20 mins of running, temps were normal again, no coolant was leaking out and the upper reservoir hose was warm but my engine suddenly cut off. I checked the oil dipstick and cap when it was running and there was no white foamy residue and the exhaust did not have white smoke. I tried starting up the car again but it would only crank, similar to when I had a camshaft sensor issue just that now there’s no check engine light on the dash. Any ideas? Unfortunately I don’t have an OBD2 that can read the Nissan's programme.
    • Bump on this to not make another post, had a ‘head drain’ leak on me and have the engine out as we speak. Planning on just putting a new freeze plug back in , plug the tapped holes and just be done with that headache.    Now I still want to relieve pressure to allow oil to pass down the blocks returns easier. I’ve seen catch cans with multiple vents help folks with this issue on this forum.  I’m wanting to make my own. I have some pictures here of my setup if anyone can help how I should plumb and design the catch can I would deeply appreciate it !   rb25 Oil upgrades: 1.0mm restrictor n1 pump/billet gears extended crank collar  extended sump with trap doors/w welded fitting    
×
×
  • Create New...