Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

On 25/11/2021 at 6:44 PM, Unzipped Composites said:

*whispers* hey @bcozican, I'll just leave these here:

๐Ÿ†๐Ÿฅ‡

ย 

๐Ÿ‘€

๐Ÿ˜…ย when your mate / aero / composite guy is keen

Can follow more updates on iface: Brandis Racing R32 Skyline or Insta: brandis_racing

ย 

ย 

ย 

So recently I won WA Time Attackย  - Overall winner won the whole thingย 

Trophy.thumb.jpg.4b01b046314182120072d320098957ce.jpg

ย 

Set a lap time of 57.97 sec which was only 2 tenths off the lap record for a tin top on semi's - we'll have that record soon!

To give some perspective for people using the standard V8SC best times at each track this would put us at a 1.338 at SMSP and 7th in open class last event at WTAC

Was quite a decent lead up to the event with decent testing and runs few things went wrong but nothing major, this was the first time we'd run the car on new tyres and max power so alot to learn still and alot more in the car/ driver combo

some pics from the day :

Esses.thumb.JPG.ee6d772b7e3f22e11bb3357122b2844a.JPG

1409084317_BrakingZone.thumb.jpg.f80e5c3fd98f69dd7e108e8aef49d74c.jpg

1286706921_PitExit.thumb.jpg.363597357db56e1206c00b0dbdc25d28.jpg

833245452_Splitterbumpercombo.thumb.jpg.9338190f3f673661df2b31a3aae0e767.jpg

359961325_WATimeAttackSetup.thumb.jpg.523850d9a4497072fe0f2dccbad5a20c.jpg

ย 

Some other pics in lead up to event

Engine bay and splitter:

557401541_Enginebay3.thumb.jpg.295d8f7e89e98f1375434aaa5614e0a8.jpg

ย 

From a twlight prac a few weeks before:

T1.thumb.JPG.48da1b6d197eeb0368123207a30e84f4.JPG

ย 

If anyone wants to know anything about the car just ask !

Edited by bcozican
  • Like 7

Amazing stuff, well done!ย 

I've liked your FB as both myself and the No Crust page to boost those social numbers bruh

Onboard lap looked pretty smooth, like there was more in it but can never tell from the desk, good driving :)ย 

ย 

  • Like 1

thanks mate

I'lm all about the socials hahaha not really its more a requirement

laps got more in we think there is about 1 sec in it with current setup

3 glaring errors - broke too early into turn 1 down , miss shift somehow down back straight, off boost on last cnr T7

  • Like 1
On 26/11/2021 at 7:07 AM, bcozican said:

๐Ÿ˜…ย when your mate / aero / composite guy is keen

ย 

On 26/11/2021 at 10:12 AM, bcozican said:

I'lm all about the socials hahaha not really its more a requirement

ย 

๐Ÿคฃ๐Ÿคฃ sorry buddy, I gotta keep on your case otherwise you'd win things and set records and not tell a soul!ย 

  • Haha 1
  • 2 weeks later...

not now no - the air guiding etc @Unzipped Compositescreated is awesome and has done the job well

but yes.... I was running fan and shroud up until recently and all my previous incarnations of the car - we took it away in stages to make sure everything worked ok - so took shroud off, then fan

ย 

  • Like 1

was a gkteck fan (only because I couldnt source a stocko one) and stock shroudย 

Ive never run a electric fan so cant comment from personal experience

ย 

even back when I was drifting I still ran stock fan and shroud - theory over here is nissan spent alot of money on r&d to get that stuff right maybe moreso than an after market option so we'll run with that

fans really only needed for cooler car in pits or at very low speed if you have decent ducting etc other than that its really just drag as air moving in goes faster than fan - shroud again is great and no probs as many fast cars inc. mine have done fine with it but really is drag

some ive seen have just run small electric fan that turns on via ecu at certain temps enough to keep it cooler but small enough to not hinder air movement through the rad properly

looks good, maybe a bit of trial and error if you look back in pics I had a very similar setup to that just with a panel across the top of the intercooler and worked wellย 

that'll be alot of direct air volume going through there at speed - maybe do the bit by bit like it did

ย 

also depends what the car is for etc

ย 

my air guide entry below is tiny but expands up over the top of the intercooler into the exact same size your have showing and I can do 5 hard laps at 25 psi circa 590 rwhp no probs

741263861_Airguideentry.thumb.jpg.b15806042eec9306e0a85c9cc6f72071.jpg

Edited by bcozican
  • Like 1
On 12/13/2021 at 10:19 AM, couchboy said:

Cool cheers, yea I'm tossing up which one I should do. I've ducted the air so it goes to the rad, but it probably won't be enough.

ย 

20211213_131659.jpg

I have run something similiar in the past to great effect for from opening in front bar right up to the rad and sealed with foam. No temp issues at big circuit and helped IATs.

With my rebuild I am going make similiar to bcozican's setup as looking to improve front end aero

On 12/13/2021 at 11:24 AM, bcozican said:

looks good, maybe a bit of trial and error if you look back in pics I had a very similar setup to that just with a panel across the top of the intercooler and worked wellย 

that'll be alot of direct air volume going through there at speed - maybe do the bit by bit like it did

ย 

also depends what the car is for etc

ย 

my air guide entry below is tiny but expands up over the top of the intercooler into the exact same size your have showing and I can do 5 hard laps at 25 psi circa 590 rwhp no probs

741263861_Airguideentry.thumb.jpg.b15806042eec9306e0a85c9cc6f72071.jpg

ย 

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • There are adaptors that allow you to delete the booster and use an s15 clutch master cylinder.ย  ย  if you want to keep the booster they are still available brand newย 
    • I visited again today: It would appear they have painted the main body of the car and some parts of some of the panels, so I can say that I now have BMW parts in my car, much to the envy of @Dose Pipe Sutututu It is still covered in dust which is quite the tease but I did look at a few circumspect spots that will be behind bumpers and such and wiped some dust away: After my repeated begging to PLEASE DONT PAINT OVER THE ENGINEERING CERTIFICATE (you have to re-engineer the entire car if they do) I see THIS: Which is great. Excellent job tbh at least to me. A better non dusty example would be the backs of the doors that have been painted: Giving a reasonable contrast between old and new (I know the old isn't clear coated on the inside of doors). The door card will well and truly cover where the old paint is, you can see in the second pic some of the black butyl/whatever shit is sticking the plastic sheet behind the door transfer that has happened since it's clearly been stuck back on. The most maddening thing about this colour is every time I saw it in the wild it looks like another colour, same with photos of many cars with the same colour looking wildly different in every photo anybody ever takes and this is no exception. But stand a little further back and it suddenly looks dark AF. I did tell them when I was discussing which of the 70 million charcoal colours to choose from (a porsche one, a BMW one, or a R32 GTR one etc) that if they just ignored me and chose one at random I would probably never notice. Maybe they did. But the colour is supposed to be B39 (BMW Mineral Gray). Boring I know, but the R34 sedan (to me) really shows off it's boat-ness when you paint it in a bright colour like bayside blue or white or whatever else. I do have a fondness for AR2 Nissan Red, but decided against that because it'll have pretty odd contrast to random bits unpainted (like engine bay, bits of trim etc, and maybe it'll fade). And people will always fkin comment on AR2. Everything remains super dusty. I have tracking numbers for the new heads, as well as some Improved Racing goodies, but they probably will be a next year thing by the time they end up on the car. I did some maths on the heads and I know why nobody goes to this extent in Australia, because it's really not worth it, given I could have just CNC'ed my current heads, bought a FAST102/TB and used my current rocker/spring/cam combination and get a 383 stroker (or stroked a 6.0 GenIV bottom end to 6.6L) built for the same price of just the setup in the mail/on the floor here. Or I could have bought a LS3 and a Drysump system. And then have a complete engine to sell. Oh well
    • We just disconnected the vacuum line if I remember correctly, booster is still there. Is there a rebuild solution for the booster or a different adapter that will work for GTR chassis?
    • Yeah 4wd (boosted) has a recess in the firewall for the booster, and 2wd is flat - the example in the link shows the flat surface. When you deleted the booster, did you just attach the factory slave cylinder directly to the recess in the firewall with no adaption? ย 
    • Yes, but no. You need to keep the mating surfaces bare (ie the flat faces where the caliper and upright pads touch the dogbone) and also the internal threads will remain bare (unless there are no internal threads - do they use nuts on all the bolts?). So you can slow down obvious external corrosion, but not all of it. Anodising would be required to provide decent protection to the alloy, but I'm not actually sure if you should anodise something that is all about the strength. Anodising does reduce strength significantly. Like, up to 50% on some alloys for high thickness coating.
ร—
ร—
  • Create New...