Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

totally agree which is why I have stayed with what Ive got till now and ran full r34 gtr brembos for years till I went past that limit

obviously the above brake kit is genuinely to the upper end of any braking system needed for most motorsport and maybe overkill but still have to have the hardware to do the job and not just

Even just sprint/ time attack 1 or 2 lap dash type thing what I have on now, which is at the lower end of where youd want to be, at SMP in 14 hot laps over 3 days I chewed about 70% of a new rotor and pads where ran at 60 % of max power half the time and other at 80% power the brakes did OK for my first go but also really only because of ABS was letting me go past where I should.

We also found by T8 hairpin on first hot lap it was starting to get hmmmm and T10 i was pretty much trail braking through necessity due to brake fade and thats on the ABS let alone another lap

will now be looking to run at least 20% more power than previously + some other things on a full hot lap

So if you go a kit in between what I had and now and the above - itd still be an awesome big brake kit so same would still apply its tyre grip and would it do the job yes - but but calculation and speaking with others once again just or still running it at 90% capacity and tbh the price difference isnt that much

Hopefully with this there are no if, but, maybes and once again the only let down may become driver skill / ability which Im OK with

 

  • Like 1
  On 06/03/2024 at 4:20 AM, bcozican said:

nice - pain in the butt to get that in and setup/ installed but good when done - you running sensors off hubs not shafts yeah ?

 

Expand  

Yeah, I just called Brad and he sent me the shit. Top guy to deal with, just get's it done.

Have you sorted the whole "tearing sub frames out under brakes"?

 

Also, what have you got done in the way of ducting to keep the brakes cool? What is the air into, and out of that area like for flow? 

Do you feel there's a possibility you're straight up lacking some cooling flow to keep things going?

 

I know you've got a lot of grip, and power, but not even a full hot lap without fade on the original brake setup, I'd be expecting myself a TOUCH more out of them. But maybe that's just my personal view. Just thinking when the production car guys can go lap after lap after lap on stock brakes (yes with less power and aero, but a LOT more stops in a row). Just my thoughts on it.

Have alot of bracing on std front subframe now and chromoly version is in the works. R33 oem tie rod ends have become a consumable

 

Its like anything. Balance. Ask an aero guy putting brakes ducts in theyll throttle you. Brakes guy wil need ducts. Engine guy. Need more air for cooling but the aero guy is gonna kill you. Its all a balance

We are talking about running these at max limit of everything for one lap or two

 

Like ive said previously, these did the job enough yes, but also tryna push some more now and id rather not f**k around and find out trying to brake at the 50m mark not the 65m mark and it gone wrong type thing

 

Yeah look at 600hp and 80% braking in a race i could prob get 3 decent laps out of it as is. Maybe more. Ive never raced.....

Regardless the rears are / were std 34 gtr 30 yrs old brembos with a single piece rotor. Thats just not going to be optimal 

 

then you throw into the equation the the tyres are only really good for 1 lap.. tops 2 (but always proven not as fast all things being equal)

 

Then you put everything together above as discussed and you get to a decision. And this was mine

 

I used to look at the topish time attack cars and honestly used to think all this was more simple and sort of black and white buy good expensive stuff, this and that and race but as always everyone does things differently and not everything is that easy and works that way. Im trying to listen and follow those way more experienced than me rather than guessing anymore

 

Either way, by no means am I saying im special or awesome, I put some of what Im up to and all this out there for people to see and read where usually unless you know the person or workshop with a car like this you dont get to see or hear alot about the happenings most of the time. At least I havent

Opnions, questions and debates are good and welcome

Edited by bcozican
  • Like 5

f**k this is an epic build, not much left on the table now surely. More carbon/less weight and correctly located ballast and even more aero is all I can think of. I love how it's gone from a pretty decent Sprint/club day car to full bonkers in a short space of time.

Did you just load Brad's tune into your ABS? I'm hoping I don't have to think about it too much. On another note, I thought Motec were price gouging when they charged $500 for a UTC but they are rookies compared to Bosch. $1800 for a tuning cable? Jesus.

Do you have any in-car from WTAC 23?

  On 07/03/2024 at 10:38 PM, GTSBoy said:

You can get away with smaller (less than you'd want) brake ducts with a little water spray added into them. Only need a super mister nozzle, a little pump and small bore tubing to get enough water to take the sting out of the brakes. Make friends with the aero guy again.

Expand  

Something similar was actually discussed not long ago as well as a spray into the cooling system

  On 07/03/2024 at 11:00 PM, Komdotkom said:

f**k this is an epic build, not much left on the table now surely. More carbon/less weight and correctly located ballast and even more aero is all I can think of. I love how it's gone from a pretty decent Sprint/club day car to full bonkers in a short space of time.

Did you just load Brad's tune into your ABS? I'm hoping I don't have to think about it too much. On another note, I thought Motec were price gouging when they charged $500 for a UTC but they are rookies compared to Bosch. $1800 for a tuning cable? Jesus.

Do you have any in-car from WTAC 23?

Expand  

Thanks mate, sorta just had a crack. Why not. Pretty much proper pedal box and flappy paddles maybe and refine

Yeah mine came over with setup in it from my data and other stuff then got refined when he was here

 

Lol 馃槄 yeah did see the bosch situation... not great no thanks

Wtac '23 ...Have my fastest hotlap that I put up on my iface page and the lap after that. Everything else disappeared somehow but wasnt that special anyway

 

Dont know whoe to put it up on here coz im technologically challenged hahaha 馃槅 

Oh righto, I'm not on Faceballs so haven't seen it. 

You're not still running a booster and Nissan master? I've got a Tilton setup in mine, it's a bit shit when pads are cold because it's unboosted an a 7.5:1 pedal ratio but once the tyres and pads are hot it's magic. Super easy to get the bias right with pressure sensors too, we set mine by the pressures as recommended by my Motec boffin and it was perfect straight out of the box 

  • Like 1

No running a bmc replacement under bonnet. Pretty much a pedal box with individual masters just using std pedals and have bosch accelerator pedal foe dbw also

Does the job but def not the best... but like verything itsnon the list on the list. Maybe next year if I win lotto 

Edited by bcozican
  • 1 month later...
  On 16/04/2024 at 10:25 AM, couchboy said:

Hey mate just out of curiosity what front swaybar do you run and do still use the factory end links if you don't mind sharing that info.

Expand  

Oem std front sway and new oem end links mate

 

Rear recently moved to 24mm whiteline sway using the links that came with that

  • Like 1
  • 3 weeks later...

FYI if interested 

Brake rotors got taken down to 389mm for clearance and all things adjusted accordingly #bolton

Had a quick retune of the retune to change the VCT window plus some of this and that

Took 7 weeks for me to get a barrell of fuel to run my car on the track = W.A

Actually attempted to drive this thing on the track after 6 months when this shouldve really been 3 monthly ago

Only a few laps - stuff didnt go right because electronic aids in the car mean you drive it a certain way when its indicated they are on and they are actually not things dont go great quickly - car fixed and refreshed + thats been fixed with additional warnings and other thing built in now

Noted - even mucking around at prob 60 - 70% the aero was now hitting the ground where it hadnt previously at 100% plus the balance of the car is improved - hence without shock pots etc etc you can tell the new aero additions have done something reasonably significant

Suspension out - change the bumps and some packers 

Tried to go out again - lightning and thunder storms / rain in Perth for the  first time in 50 years for the hour I had - didnt get out

V8SC are now here so no track time at Barbs for many weeks - an going to try go down to our other track a few hours away and try to get in the seat

Got the below as a pressie recently - yes I dont mind the odd lego + this is very good I think and if not into lego even can appreciate someones craftmanship of this level

NissanSkylineR32GTSTTimeAttackBlackF.thumb.jpg.2280c18d00b79e359e00406168909e6d.jpg

NissanSkylineR32GTSTTimeAttackBlackS.thumb.jpg.ed9209c522641f1fd4fd4bb4c914b8c7.jpg

NissanSkylineR32GTSTTimeAttackBlack1.thumb.jpg.fc919ce90c23098c2abb9cde4b4497ea.jpg

NissanSkylineGTSTR32TimeAttackRacecarBlack5.thumb.jpg.746b975629a0f7788c91e8fbd4aa9489.jpg

NissanSkylineGTSTR32TimeAttackRacecarBlack4.thumb.jpg.1df1308274e556442c1fdc37f0f5605f.jpg

 

Edited by bcozican
  • Like 6
  On 03/05/2024 at 12:04 AM, bcozican said:

 

Got the below as a pressie recently - yes I dont mind the odd lego + this is very good I think and if not into lego even can appreciate someones craftmanship of this level

NissanSkylineR32GTSTTimeAttackBlackF.thumb.jpg.2280c18d00b79e359e00406168909e6d.jpg

 

Expand  

Damn thats cool.

  • Like 1
  On 03/05/2024 at 4:10 AM, PranK said:

Damn thats cool.

Expand  

Genuinely 馃憣

Custom 1300 piece 1:16 (i think) scale of my car based off pics etc with full instructions and packaged etc using genuine LEGO 

Guy in Poland - SPLineup on the www. 馃槈 or insta

Wife did it as surprise said good experience dealing, took 6 months first correspondence to receipt of product

Edited by bcozican
  • Like 1
  On 03/05/2024 at 5:00 AM, bcozican said:

Genuinely 馃憣

Custom 1300 piece 1:16 (i think) scale of my car based off pics etc with full instructions and packaged etc using genuine LEGO 

Guy in Poland - sp line

Wife did it as surprise said good experience dealing, took 6 months

Expand  

Its even cooler now. What a job! 

  • Like 1
  On 06/05/2024 at 11:50 AM, soviet_merlin said:

Are you going to be at WTAC this year
@bcozican?

Just realised it's coming up end of August so not long to go at all.

https://www.worldtimeattack.com/

Expand  

Hey

Yeah ill be there ! 

Hussling hard now to get seat time and make car all good  see if can get some early track time over east

馃 

Itd be really nice to have some luck 馃榿

Edited by bcozican
  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Meh, At 60 years old, I have been doing dumb stuff for much longer than you mate, I am the true King And unfortunately I cannot be a maroon, as I am not brownish red As for not getting ITB's, the plenum intake will apparently show typical gains across the board and increase induction noise a bit, but, have all over less dort than ITB's Cost difference for the extra ITB dorts was significant though, the total parts for the plenum set up is "around" $2kAUD plus shipping, the ITB's were $4kAUD plus shipping, I was contemplating really hard about paying the extra $2k for all of the dorts, but weirdly, some form of common sense, from listening to the platform experts prevailed  As for the NA mod hate by some, I've had a few boosted cars, with all their inherent issues, I'm now looking at simplicity and legalities for a street car, maybe I'm just getting old, and I'm quite happy to spend some of the kids inheritance, 5kw at a time 馃ぃ And think of all the money I'll be saving on consumables that something with boost needs, like engines, gearboxes, diffs, clutches,  tilt trays... etc. etc. etc. 馃お
    • Haha.  I wouldn't say I am either but I've definitely been around it plenty.  I'm guessing you know the dial in is basically to make a handicap to level the playing field between racers.  The car with the slower dial in goes first and in theory if they run their dial in time and the faster car also does then they cross the finish time if they also have exactly the same reaction time - if you go faster than the dial in them you lose, but if you are too slow there's a good chance the other person will get to the finish line first. I'm normally supporting other cars but they were all pretty dialled and were egging me on to race as well, here's one of the cars I tune (Starlet) which ran within like 1 hundredth of its dial in through the competition: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=inEBu-d9Gn4&t=69s
    • Where ever the fuel reg gets it reference is what I use to T into for map reference been a very long time so where it goes to plenum/runners I have no idea but never had issues. 
    • What ecu? Same shop every time? Same ambient temperature? If timing is correct then pull plugs and see if lean or rich. Dyno can also read different if they have changed ramp rate or not set tacho/speed properly  
    • I've never done dial in's just straight up, whatever that's called. I'm far from a drag (racing ) expert.
  • Create New...